Complete novice when it comes to body work... But its something I would like to learn. I have this international that has pretty big dents on the front and rear fenders and was wondering if you all can provide some guidance on how to carress these back to original shape.
Honestly they do have certain charm, some CLR and a scouring pad may even bring back some color. Some like that look. So if engine, drive train brakes and wiring needs to be done......I would consider leaving it at is until the big stuff is out of the way. This all depends on your plans. If this is a frame off resto...sure, bring the body back to new or close to it. If this a truck you can drive while you fix you may want to wait. With that said...start from the outside in, use your head on what needs to be pushed and where. Use a hammer and dolly. Like anything there is a learning curve but as beat up as those fenders are...you are not going to hurt them. I'm sure there are plenty of videos on Youtube showing hammer and dolly work.
here's what you don't want to do. the orange circles represent someone pounding away from the inside with a ball peen hammer trying to push the low part back to the original surface making 100 small dents, where before you had a few stretched areas:
Not that it was suggested but don't use a ball pein hammer, use a large crowned dolly, something like this. I'd start on the horizontal dots in the middle and then work the heavy creases down on the edges with a panel hammer to relieve the stress and allow the panel to hold shape. NOT too heavy handed because you will overstretch the metal and it will require shrinking and dressing to get the shape and contours correct.. Work the other areas and edges down but not over stretching the metal. Hammer on off technique. Raise the low points and lower the high points. Because it is real steel and not a recycled beer can it will require some physical effort.
I would consider first using a Porto Power with the big rubber head fitting to push much of the dents back to the fender's original general shape. THEN apply the hammer/dolly to further smooth the surface irregularities. If you try the Porto Power method, you can apply pressure to the dents, working from outside in, and use a "slapper" (broad faced tool with a handle. look in tool catalogs and make one from a section of leaf spring) to reduce the stress in the sharper creases as you push. The idea is to reverse the damage......i.e......."last in, first out". There are books published on body work techniques. Motor Books International (MBI) is one source......there are others, such as Amazon and eBay. It would be worth the few bucks and a little spreading time to familiarize yourself with proven procedures before picking up your tools. You can do this and it will be very satisfying to have done so. Best Wishes. I have always liked those Binder pickups. Ray
Good advice here. Also DO NOT depend on grinding the surface to help establish correct contour. It appears that your panels have not been butchered previously and the metal in that truck is thick. This is "perfect damage" to learn very useful lessons on.
Get a copy of "The Key To Metal Bumping" by Frank T Sargent, less than $20, and read before picking up a hammer or any other tools. Literally no better bang for the buck. Ed
Holy moly... After being quoted 2500 to 3000 by a hot rod fab shop to fix only the 2 fenders, I have purchased some snap on body hammers and the Key to metal bumping book. I havent started to read it yet. But would it be best to work these installed on the truck or removed? Would the rubber round point mallets help so that I can get some on order? The metal on the fenders is pretty darn thick... Its going to take some good whacks vs tapping..
I would work them on the truck so you would have something to hold it steady, especially fi you use a porta power with the rubber ball end. Even the House of Horrors ones are OK for the beginner,( mgtstumpy ) is right on with his directions. Just take your time and work slow. The key to Metal Bumping is a good book, I gave one to each of my apprentice over the years and it helped them. Snap-On hammers are good . Be sure to match the crown of the hammer and dolley to what you are working on. Have fun Frank
Make a hammer from a welding gas cylinder cap....knock out the bigs dents,,,,,,then hammer and dollie
a definate read . and buy a decent set of tools . martins are expensive but worth the the money , just get the basic set , the cheap china sets, the metal is soft and can be damaged easily , and when you buy your tools keeped them oiled when not used so they do not rust , as metal bumping is not really like hitting a nail on the head its more like a smearing hit and you want that smooth surface ..
As F one said, start at the outside edge of the dent and work inward. Also, try to remove the damage in reverse order to how it was put in. And 100 light taps is better than one big smash. With a little practice you will figure out how to move the metal without stretching it. If you are tapping on one spot and it doesn't want to move, try someplace else. When you get it right the metal almost wants to go back into place by itself. Where the metal is creased or stretched it is a different problem. That is where you may need to heat and shrink it.
I agree with most of the reply's but take the fenders off get a cheap rubber hammer and try to reverse the damage get them on a bench where you a comfortable swinging learn to use your hand from the tips of your fingers to your palm until you can tell a woman's age in the dark ! lol
I would also remove the fenders, but then get a nice panel beating sand bag (preferably leather) and start slowly massaging out the dents hitting them from the inside out into the panel bag. It's all about the dolly and being patient. Heat could also be your friend if you are not concerned about keeping the present finish.
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