When you have some small imperfections with the body filler when your finished you have the option of using spot puddy(body glaze) instead of applying another normal coat of the 2 part body filler ; before applying paint. I have had poor luck with this one part glaze in a tube.Is there a better named product out there that will cover these very small imperfections that will not crack or come loose in time? Gene
As you've already found out that red stuff in a tube that's been around forever is really asking for trouble. It'll keep shrinking, especially after topcoated with just about anything. What's wrong with just mixing up a teaspoon size ball of whatever filler your using? They do make good filler/glaze, but it's two part also, so doesn't gain you too much that I can see.
5 star makes a really good single component spot glaze. It sets really fast tho, works good, never had an issue. Sorry can't remember the actual name.
X2 on the Evercoat, but I use the material in the "can" as it has a heavier consistency. For very small pits or imperfections, I use a razor blade to apply.
Evercoat "Metalglaze" or USC "Icing" are both good finish fillers. The difference, even though you mix it like regular mud, is the density. It sets fast and doesn't shrink, and it's not meant for any more than a thin finish coat or to fill minor pits.
I prefer USC Icing - Glazing & Finishing Filler Putty. Like Highlander says, it's only for minor stuff - pinholes, sand scratches, small defects. Go easy on the hardened. It will go off pretty fast if too much is used.
Used this on show quality, High gloss Black body work. Have never seen read thru over time, http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100425/us/
Single component puttys worked when you were spraying laqoer...use it today and you will regret it...try the 3M platinum plus glaze....sands amazing and spreads really nice
Filling spots on top of filler in a nearly otherwise finished panel never sand off correctly, at least not for me. The surrounding areas of the spot fill that were finished get sanded too and now there's a ripple that needs filled again but now it's an even bigger & bigger area and then blocked out. Sanding the entire panel again to get the ripple usually takes off too much material. I find it infinitely frustrating. If the coat you thought was your skim coat needs more filler or has imperfections it wasn't the skim coat for that panel. That final coat of filler needs to be perfect in application and with enough material to sand off. It also needs to go from end to end of the repair. The glaze products do this best. But you need to force it into the any of those imperfections first, then coat over the entire repair forcing it into the sand scratches, then apply enough to sand off into a perfected surface. Guess what happens if there's imperfections in the glaze surface after you've blocked the area down? Along time ago, I was building up a surface with weld to be machined off. It was a square pad wear surface about 16"square. Quite a bit of rod was put down. The machinist set it up and made his cuts. His first pass bumping and chattering off the weld beads the second pass cut better but still really bumping. That whipped out his cutters so he changed them. Third pass was better but still bumping and not cleaning up. 4th pass didn't clean up with small imperfections, but he reached the dimension for ready for the final cut. There's no way to get the final cut while it's still bumping off the imperfections. So we had to start the entire process all over again. Why? Because I didn't put enough on. Because I didn't put enough on he had to cut 2x as much off and blow 2x another set of cutters, because I didn't put enough on I had to put down 2x as much and take 2x as long. As a young man I got a stern talking to from my boss that day.
31vic, you're right about the blocking. What we're doing with fill is SURFACE DEVELOPMENT. It's so similar to clay modeling, creating an even surface in order to attain a shape. What also happens is the different hardness values of each fill layer, and like a virus, the shrinking of the fills below over a very short time. This that "shake" you see in the reflections of a not-so-good surface covered in a dark color. I sometimes mix a small amount of glaze in the regular mud to give it density and allow it to surface easier with a more consistent hardness. Perhaps past the scope of the topic, but those interested may gain something from it.
Yes for very minor sand scratches and imperfections, but pinholes usually are too deep for high build primer. A tiny dab of two part glaze over a small spot of pinholes is usually more stable. 31Vicky is dead on, it is tricky to apply and sand a small spot of glaze without dicking up the whole panel, but it can be done, just takes practice. Good luck, -Abone.
Good gravy who's got that kinda time to practice that kinda shit I can't ever do it. I was just taught a trick the other day. Maybe I should save it for the hopeful tech week we have coming up. A buddy of mine got a flow check on a 67 chevelle on the inner sail panel/next to the rear windshield. All the usual razor shave stuff but it was still there a little bit. Before any sanding He took some icing and spread it over the run. Let it set up and then wet sanded the icing off. When the icing was gone so was the run and it buffed out perfect. He said that's about the only way to do it without digging deep next to the run. Pretty slick huh?
Surely the OP means etch/epoxy and filler primer by the term "paint" ? Glaze coats are designed to fill minor imperfections such as pin holes and sand scratches. I have had ok luck with solid colors using the red 1k putty but only in filling 1 or 2 small pinholes left in the primer surfacer that I knew wouldn't seal out. Light metallics... Not a chance. A trick I learned with applying glaze over a small area to make it easy to sand without taking material off the surrounding bodywork was to spread the glaze then "feather" the glaze edges leaving the center high. Sand with an appropriate sized block and go over the area slightly with a larger block after it is sanded out with the small block. Similar to the trick to take runs out.
I've always heard to spread a 2-part glazing putty as your final coat of filler. It's not to really fill the panel, but take out any of the last minute dots that need filled. I've been using U-pol dolphin glaze. Goes on super smooth and sands nice. Also cost effective. That old red putty in the tube needs to go in the trash. That reminds me i've got a 20 year old tube of that crap to throw away. Used this method myself. Works slick as shit. Only way I sand out anything but a minor run anymore. Inevitably you would burn through the area right beside the sag or run trying to get it removed. Jeremy
Spot putty is terrible has been outdated for close to 30 years. As others have mentioned it shrinks and never seems to dry well IMO. Evercoat or Usc polyester Putty is definitely the answers as others have mentioned. It is expensive for the amount you get but once you use it you'll be hooked. A tech tip is to mix your regular body with it 50/50 when you go to use some to make it go twice as far on your larger spots. It thins/smooths out just the same as using the poly putty by itself.
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