HELP with Holley 94's on a Blower!!!

gas pumper has a good point thati hadn't realized before in that the specific gravity would be lighter in todays' fuel due to the ethanol content and an old carb may not have the volume to regulate the needle & seat via the float. Especially one that has 'low' pressure to begin with. Thanks for pointing that out.
This is a great thread Coast, when you get the cabs fixed you'll have to break something else so we can continue the discussion.

 

oj...just ask him about exploded throw out bearings
Clark

 

First I don't think that you are changing the height enough. When you want to eliminate a possible problem you want to do a drastic change. I would change one a quarter inch and see if it fixed it and then go in and fine tune them if it did. 1/32 of an inch changes isn't going to do much. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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The only way for it to drip of the accelerator pump is if the fuel bowl is too full and the fuel is dumping into that shaft. <o></o>

 

I found this thread helpful - Thanks. I rebuilt the 94 on my 36 pickup with a kit that had the rubber needle and seat, and I had the leaking problem. I lowered the float level a bunch and it stopped.

I think what is happening is that the rubber valve is springy and the weight of the brass float does not compresss it to closed position when you turn the top of the carb upside down. If you press down on the float while it's in that position, you can compress it (the valve) quite a distance before it stops. I'd have to set up a pressure feed system to test exactly where it shuts off the flow and don't feel the need right now, but for now my problem is solved just by adjusting the float level to compensate for the springiness, and didn't have to change to the standard type needle and seat.

 

Trying to revive this old post. I have 2 94's on a 471 blower that I just got running. The carbs were set up by an expert 94 guy and they worked perfectly for the first 150 miles while I was getting the bugs out of the build. Then suddenly at about 60 miles an hour my windshield was covered with a spray of fuel. When I pulled over, at idle I could see fuel perking out of the inlet fittings. Even after I stopped the engine both carbs continued to bubble fuel. Even after the engine cooled for a few hours, when the pump was turned on, the inlets leaked. Seems strange that both carbs would all of the sudden start leaking. I will check my pressure, the regulator and my needle and seats today but wondered if anyone has any idea what might have caused this?

 

Sounds like original poster is getting things under control...I like the old metal to metal valves, too. I frequently reuse the old ones, as kits come through with rubber tips that stick. I hold the body of valve in one hand, put in the needle, and lightly tap it against seat in several rotational positions with a tiny hammer to verify seating.
A point that all 94 types should check is the air bleeds in nozzle bars...carb model isn't given here, there are at least 3 basic types of nozzle bars on various models. Both the main and idle circuits feed up the nozzle bars, and both circuits have a tiny bleed hole. On the '37-51 types I like there are larger divots into the two circuits in front arm of the bar containing very small holes...these need to be carefully checked. If the rebuilder just swizzled the bars in solvent, they may be plugged and that can turn the bars into a syphon circuit capable of pulling fuel and drizzling it down the bores even with engine off.