Projects Daily Driving the 57 / Spare parts to keep

Wow, Tim. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I'm definitely going to inquire about any classes and get started on those gauges.

The car has a lot of light rust on it. None on the frame / undercarriage. Just cosmetic. But I do look forward to meeting up with other nice people like yourself and start cruising and learning all that I can. Thanks again

 

ALSO learn about BOLT GRADES, and the proper TORQUE for the size and grade. Harbor Fright has decent TORQUE WRENCHES cheap with a coupon. Get a 3/8-drive for starters, 1/2-drive later for engine and suspension rebuilding. LOOK for torque specs in your manual, and follow them - they will save you a migrain if you overtighten a bolt and it snaps off, or leaks if not tight enough!

 

Give the Ultimate Compound a try - the stuff is AMAZING!

Hey, happy to help Bobby! WHY many of us hang out here while waiting for parts or motivation for our own junk!!!

 

If you can find one, the Motor (brand) repair manuals are very good in those years. Nice car, good luck with it. All of what I read here is some good advice for you.

 

The '57 shop manual is being reproduced, so they are an easy find new or used. This is a direct link to the " '57 Ford supplier links" list on the 57fordsforever.com. My tag on that forum is my name Rich Muise
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=2051.0

 

Don't put gauges in the car, if you do you'll just obsess over the numbers being "wrong". As long as it's working ok, ignorance is bliss....

and besides, the car survived 58 years without them. It must be possible for it to live a little longer, with a caring owner.


But do learn what to look out for, as far as getting the cooling system in good condition, the charging system working right, and what the engine needs for oil, etc.

 

I'm sure you already know this but just in case. Our Older flat tappet motors do not like today's motor oil. I'd plain stay away from multi grade in that motor. 20 or 30 weight depending on weather and actual motor health condition. Both Lucas and Gibbs make a good additive for off the shelf oils. I personally use Brad Penn Green slime. It still has it all in it. A little spendy but cheep insurance.
The Wizzard

 

I buy a lot of things from Summit. If I need to round up an order to get the free shipping, I buy the Brad Penn oil. At under $8 a quart, it beats the parts house prices.

 

I'll chime in with my 2¢ worth. As long as you are running the Y block, carry some extra oil... at least that has been my experience with them. And they have a solid lifter cam, so learn how to periodically adjust the valve lash. The Yblocks are as tough as tractor engines, I don't think you will have that many breakdowns.
If you aren't comfortable with your mechanic abilities, get AAA. Then you can get a tow home to work on any breakdowns.

 

I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil (20w-50) from my local NAPA for $5 a quart. A call to Valvoline's Tech Line sold me - has a detergent package good for 3k between changes, with the 'old' level of ZDDP (around 1200ppm).

I've read enough about the reduction of ZDDP in today's oils to make my head spin. My conclusion: a fresh rebuild OR a cam and lifter replacement in an old engine (stock or hi-perf with stronger valve springs) NEEDS a oil with 1200-ppm of ZDDP. That's where Brad Penn, JoeGibbs race oil, VR-1, come into the picture for worry free cam and lifter break-in. STOCK engines that have been in service for the past 15-20 years, will be just fine with 'off the shelf' oil. The reduction in ZDDP has been VERY gradual over the years, and there seems to be a degree of "reverse engineering" by the refiners to accomadate flat-tappet engines.

I shop Walmart for Valvoline in the 5-qt. jugs. (5w-30 for the late-models, 20w-50 for my old Chevy six). Castrol is also good oil. Just can't beat Wally's prices!!!

I buy Peroulator oil filters at Pep Boys, or use NAPA filters. FRAM is the cheapest POS one can screw on an engine - they cut corners with LESS paper and cardbord end caps, minimal Q-C. Commonly refered to as THE ORANGE CAN OF DEATH... wouldn't use them if they were FREE.

NAPA sells a GOOD hand-trigger grease gun, but add a flex-hose (12-15" long) to make it easier to reach some zirk fittings. Your shop manual will call out the lube points on the front end. You can load a grease cartrage in for less mess than hand-packing the gun, just have an extra handy.

What began as my 2-cents winds up a NICKLE... Take Care, Tim

 

Fuel hose front to back. That stuff cracks, sprays and ya got big problems right away.
Change the belts and hoses. Points and condenser in the glove box is a great thing to have. Change them out several times so you can do it in the rain, at night with someone screaming at you.
Shops laugh when you bring our cars in. Some of them freak out because they know about all the sensors and computers, but are lost at adjusting points. A match book will gap them good enough.
You tube is your friend. HAMB is your friend. Estate/ church rummage sales are your friend..
I bought a 1948-1958 MOTORS manual and others for $1.00 each at a church rummage.

 

LOL I heard that. And always keep a spare door key at the very least in a key safe for when you lock your keys in it.

Most of what is on the spare parts list can be found in any parts store. any time. If I had a spare radiator I would keep it but I wouldn't go looking for one. I may find a voltage regulator and a spare set of brushes for the genny and a set of points and a condenser and maybe a fan belt. Those may take a day or two to get in a pinch. Its just a damned old car and not unlike any other damned old car, don't overthink it just enjoy it.

 

don't need no stinkin spare keys for an old car...just practice breaking in, it's not difficult. And a lot of them won't even let you lock yourself out, or they make you work hard to lock yourself out. If you use the key to lock the door, you'll never leave the key in the ignition when you lock up the car.

 

LOL my little brother had a '64 post car. he locked his keys in the car but he had his spare keys in his pocket which he used to get something out of the truck then promptly locked his spare keys in the trunk. So he calls me at home and wants me to come down and help him get in. So I grabbed a brick and rode to where he was and tossed it through the side glass reached in and got his keys and opened the trunk and handed him his spare keys so he could unlock the door. He looked at me funny and said thanks.

(I had a parts car with good glass)

 

Get a brass .017 feeler gauge for the points, a little piece of 220 wet dry paper in case you need to clean the points on the side of the road, some WD 40 for wet days, and a couple matchbooks to set the points with because you lost the feeler gauge. You only need one, but two is good.

 

Two is good because you always give one to the other dummy who was not prepared to set his points on the side of the road. I still remember when I always had matches in the car and in my pocket.

 

Did your mechanic return your old belts and hoses? Worth carrying.

A GOOD FLASHLIGHT - small enough to hold in your mouth. I just found a LED penlight a Lowe's for $6. I keep it in my hip pocket, as I work nights. Damn-handy!!!

CELL PHONE CHARGER - good to keep in EVERY car.

TOW CABLE - a REAL friend will tow you home, or a stranger will get you off the street into a parking lot. With an Auto, best not to tow longer than 5-10 miles in N.

JUMP START BOX with air compressor, OR jumper cables (bigger the wire gauge, the BETTER).

EXTRA WATER and OIL- I rinse out my 5-qt. oil jugs with Dawn soap, carry 1 or 2. Dawn is a GREAT hand cleaner too!

RAGS, work shirt, leather or mechanics' gloves.

TIRE CHANGE - practice one in your driveway to MAKE SURE your jack and lug wrench WORKS. Check the air in the spare, that it holds air. Carry a good tire gauge in the glove box to check ALL the tires cold.

LEARN all you can about automotive electrical systems. How to test for bad grounds, how to test charging and ignition systems, read a wiring diagram. At some point, a TEST LIGHT and MULTIMETER will be your best friends. INNOVA makes a good little multimeter - get one with an AUDIO CONTINUALTY TESTER (aka 'buzzbox'), sold at Walmart for under $30. I keep mine in my travel tool bag. The wiring diagram in the shop manual is a PITA to read - take it to Kinko's, get blown up to POSTER SIZE! Learn to solder wires, use HEAT-SHRINK TUBING for clean wiring repairs. You can thank me AFTER you fix your first electrial issue...

EVERY GAS STOP (or once a week) - check under the hood. Oil, water, battery, brake fluid, trans fluid (running in PARK, and HOT). Look for leaks and other potential problems that might creep up with TIME.

Man, I wish you were near San Diego, I would take you under my wing! Check out ALL the local clubs, you'll know when one feels RIGHT. I've learned a TON over 40+ years and am STILL learning - by reading or experience, or by other's sucess or failure. Take it a bite at a time, buy ONLY the tools and parts you need at the time. Ya can't learn SQUAT by paying someone, so read like hell and ask plenty of questions - ask several people the same question - the BEST answers are usually the SAME answers from different folks - the BEAUTY of the HAMB! Mucho Luck, Tim

 

I put a lot of miles on '57 T-Birds with Y blocks. The engines were bullet proof. If you change the oil I would expect 150K miles on the engine. I don't ever remember adjusting the valves after they were set. I must be getting old and forgetful.

Charlie Stephens

 

I don't doubt that you have. It just seems around here for every person that can run a Y Block thousands upon thousands of miles with virtually no maintenance, there is another guy who's engine is constantly busted or dealing with some kind of crazy issues. Bent pushrods, phantom coolant leaks, leaking rear mail seals... Mine didn't last 1300 miles before it had a catastrophic meltdown cruising at 60 mph. The fact that the carnage was able to stay contained within the block is a testament to the strength of the casting. I'm sure I would have windowed the block if it were some other engine. The Y block I had left a very sour taste in my mouth, especially since I had just gotten rid of a 57 Bel Air with a 283 that wouldn't die and had been ultra-reliable in daily driving duty.

One nice things I have to say about my Y block, it made the best planter. Every year the flowers I planted in it grow so beautiful, better than any of the other pots.

 

What a busy day. I have a lot of catching up to do with all of the advice

I really appreciate that, Tim. I actually grew up in Riverside and dated a few girls in San Diego. I miss Coronado beach. Beautiful grey sand.

I know there was a nice hot rod shop in Norco that I went into a few times. Of course I didn't need anything there. Just loved looking around.

Thanks again for all of the advice. I'm learning a lot already. My last day of my NA course is tomorrow, so that'll free up some time to get my hands dirty again.

I was driving around town (90 degrees today) and saw that the temperature guage was getting really hot. Might have something to do with me starting her up 3 times within 10 minutes. Had to find parking somewhere but got paranoid when I looked around and saw 3 tow trucks all within a block. Had to make sure I was in the right lot. Anyways, hopefully my manual comes in soon so I can figure it out

 

Also get familiar with "rockautoparts" on line: If you have time to wait 2-3 days for the part to arrive, they can save a TON of money over the local parts house(as you get more used to the car & it's regular 'needs', you'll know what to order & when, & they do have most of the parts!!) As far as oil(I'm gonna catch 'shit' for this!! LOL!): Chevron Delo 400 Diesel rated 15-W40 motor oil apparently still has enough of the 'good-stuff' in it, as the diesels need it as well, & a well-worn Y-block will thrive on it(& it's cheaper at 'wally-world'!) As far as maintenance is concerned : If you haven't done it already, be sure to change your transmission( & filter, if you have an automatic) & rear-end fluids(do them when they're hot ; they'll drain faster & will 'carry' any sediment out as they drain.) & repack your front -wheel bearings(I recommend Black Lithium grade or equivalent) because you don't know when they were last done(do it when you remove your brake-drums to check the brakes : '2 birds w/1 stone') WELCOME TO Y-BLOCK WORLD : with a little care & maintenance they're as good as any other brand!

 

Thinkin about it,,,,,
Before your book arrives the public library, remember those, will have Motors manuals or some other form of refrence books. Read them like a novel.