I have a Ellis 25" twin carb manifold for my 52 chrysler 265 flathead 6 that I'm dropping into a 40 plymouth touring sedan. I've been told that the usual oem and aftermarket flathead 6 intakes need heat to keep them from stalling. Anyone running, or previously ran, an old Ellis twin carb intake on a mopar flathead 6 and can lend some input on this situation or the manifold...I could use the input. What kind of carbs you ran/run wouldn't hurt either! Here's what I've got- I still need the dipstick and tube, oil filler tube and cap and the water tap that runs to the thermostat...a wire loom and coil bracket wouldn't hurt either I guess.
My father runs two carters with a dom tubing twin carb intake set up with a lake pipe stock mechanical pump runs great no issues with stalling my fathers is a 47 inline isky cam and i milled the head down .157 will post a pick if i figure out how
I have a 1940 Plymouth P10 business coupe with a 1955 230 cu.in. flathead six. I have an Offenhauser dual one barrel intake manifold....using two carbs from a 1937 Dodge...They both are made by Carter.....My exhaust is a pair of 3 into 1 castings made by a guy named Phillips from the Seattle Washington area....now what I did for carburator heat is this...I used a piece of 1/4" thick flat steel to cover the "hot spot" on the underside of the Offy intake....I used the gasket from my overhaul gasket set that goes between the stock manifolds...then I drilled and tapped two holes....in both holes (1/4" pipe threads in each) I used two street ells and plumbed them into the cooling system...one at the water pump and the other in the cylinder head at the rear of the engine...I have a choke only on the rear carb and it always starts right up...after a few minutes when it gets warm it runs very nicely....hot water heat works for me.
Yeah, the 23" Offy's have the heater box for just that, the Ellis' don't...they were made for dodge 1 1/2 and 2 ton trucks I guess{that's how its marked}, but I have to figure they wound up on a few "cars" too. Thanks for the input on the carbs...I could use twin B&Bs...maybe weber/holleys "if" I can find them!
I've seen heat transferred from the exhaust via "heat pipe" which is just thick aluminum rod touching both exhaust & intake manifolds. Transferring too much heat could be an issue. Also metal expansion when hot. Or hot water, as stated. You could figure out how to run a hot water pipe under the intake, but be careful about different metals touching each other which can cause corrosion.
how about running a 1/2" diameter piece of tubing along the full length of the intake manifold underneath it ?...maybe a few wraps of some type of insulation.to retain heat...plumb the ends into the cooling system....can easily be removed for that custom look.
Unless your are going to be running a lot in cold weather it probably will not be an issue. I am running the sotck exhaust manifold with the heat riser welded in the no heat to the manifold position, below a Fenton intake. I have a stainless blocker plate seperating the manifolds. I have driven in the fall and early winter with temps in teh low to mid 30's with no problems. I do have my heater return hose zip tied to the side of the intake, but for the summer the manual valve is off so there is no flow/no heat.
I recently bought an Ellis intake for my 51 pilothouse. I've got the Chrysler flathead in it as well. The intake I bought came with linkages and Zenith carbs which I think are the original carbs for that intake. Does anybody know if heat is a problem for the Zenith carbs as well?
don't know anything about Zeniths. Chrylser Corp cars used Carter Ball and Ball singles, for Plymouth and Stromberg singles for cars running fluid drive set ups. I don't believe Zeniths were used by MOPAR unless it was a Canadian production deal. Most of that group of carbs were pretty simple and fool proof, so the Zeniths probably work as well as the rest of the carters, strombergs, rochesters etc.
Looking at the manifold today it hit me that if I really need to I could have someone weld 2 long aluminum pieces the length of the "inside of the manifold, weld end caps on and drill and tap those for fittings for water heat- the inside is flat. Another idea I had was to have a machinist friend drill, hone and press fit in a thick wall aluminum tube and have the protruding ends welded around it to totally seal it, then drill and tap those ends for water heat as well. Problem is can he drill all the way thru or from matching both sides from each end?..he hasn't gotten back to me yet. My whole posting for this though was do I need to do that with this Ellis manifold...I hope somebody running an Ellis can chime in with that info...but, I do really appreciate all the input guys. Reading the "why you need manifold water heat to avoid cold fuel charge stumble" article from Langdon's website had me thinking "I need to do this"...maybe not, or at least untill told different... ...now to pick out some carbs while I'm waiting...
We had several '53 265 inline sixes in fire engines we were operating and all came from the apparatus builder (Van Pelt) without any carburetor heat and all had factory installed dual intake and split exhaust manifolds along with them on delivery. We also had three '52 Chrysler 300+ cubic inch inline flat head sixes that also were setup the same way. All ran good and did live out their intended 12 year service life without any major failures. One of those big sixes is now being restored by an old fire apparatus collector. Normbc9
I believe the three pipe plugs on the manifold itself is where you plumb in the water/coolant to heat the manifold. See pic from OP.
Since the Ellis was intended mainly for use in trucks, I believe those pipe plugs are for a choice of vacuum source for large brake boosters. Another truck only situation regarding manifold heat is that many trucks are less apt to be started from cold far fewer times relative to miles traveled.
UPDATE - I ran into a guy with a '57 chevy running a straight six with an Ellis twin pot like mine- he was running a pair of Carter AS carbs on his and liked it.....so that's what I wound up with. I have to figure out the linkage yet since they're turned in 90 degrees due to the mounting studs orientation.
I had the exact same Ellis manifold on my 54M37. I ran two Ford falcon six cyl carbs. It worked very well without a manifold heater even in freezing wet weather. I had a six into one header with no attachments to the manifold. And ran an intake snorkel so it was not getting warm air. No issues ever! Enabled me to run a 6000lb truck up to 60mph
I made it. Cut the flanges out of plate with a torch and had a local exhaust guru bend the tubes up to patterns I made out of wire. After a day or so of fitting and welding I had an equal length six Ito one header. FYI go long tubes if you can. Mine were short and it hurt torque at low rpm.
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