Hot Rods How do you make a clutch linkage in a 32 frame?

It looks like most of the X leg needs to be cut away to make room for the clutch pedal travel?

That seems sketchy to me.

I will wait to see what others have to say
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If you put a pedal box on the inside of the leg and bend pedals outward to the side you getaway from cutting the leg... And yes it is scketch cutting most the leg out

 

Lots to consider here. Now I know why I am not a 1-800 builder I am assuming the X and the pedals came from the same factory, so how can a typical guy in a residential garage, make the clutch pedal work??

If you run the pedals on the inside like was just posted, where will the brake master fit? Way to the rear, I would think.

If it was here, I am 90% sure I could fix this mess, and end up with the brake master in the same spot, but the C/E cast bracket would be scrapped, unless I could see what the far right side of it looks like. It would have the pedals on the inside of the leg like suggested.

What I would try to build is a brake pedal that operates an internal shaft that passes through a thick wall machined pipe that is stationary and welded to a thick plate that will bolt where the C/E casting does. Then the clutch pedal pivots on the OD of that machined pipe.

Being that the brake is turning an internal shaft, the other end of that shaft would have a short lever to operate the brake master.

Now the clutch will need a bellcrank mounted ahead of the pedals like one post showed.

It's hard to build this setup over the net with words ... maybe I can put up pics if I can find something here to help visualize what I mean. IDK
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A cable clutch can resolve a lot of the packaging issues. There's a real good thread on it somewhere.

 

Is the 39 clutch/brake peddle assembly the same as a 40 ?

 

I used 33/34 pedals, in a home made box thats very similar to the stock 32 box.
I used a cable set up. Mine is a bit more involved than most because i actually moved the fork to the pass side of the bell housing.
When i push the pedal, it pulls the cable which in then pulls the fork back on the other side of the motor.
The only reason i went with a pass side release was clearence issues due to me mouting the motor low and back for the hood to clear the blower.
The bell interfered with any sort of linkage i could have made for that side.

And i've used hyd sets ups before. They work, but i have never been happy with the action of them.
Always seemed slow to me. The cable is just as solid and quick as mechanical.
Also, mine has a 327 t5 as well....til i can afford a Tremec. Lol
I dont have pics on here but could dig them up if you're interested.

Tony

 

No.

 

We need to look at the OP's dilema. His clutch pedal will not move, as it is stuck in the hole in the X member front leg.

So right now, it does not matter what system to use, if the clutch pedal cannot move.

I would think he wants to get a pedal that can move, but without cutting away the front leg of the X. It would also be a plus to salvage the existing brake master and the lines.

You can't do anything until a you get a clutch pedal that can move.
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F&J, good point and one i missed.

 

Just some idea base for the group. The objective in this idea is to save the new X leg, and the brake master location. These parts are out of scale, because they really are hanging pedal pieces for a visual-only demo. All the parts for the 32 would be custom made IMO.

Start with a thick flat steel plate to bolt into the E/C pedal mounting holes in the X leg. It has a welded, stationary tube to hold both pedals.


Now, the new custom clutch pedal arm, has a large bushed bore to slide over that tube (yes, the new pedal needs to be angled way over to the left):


Next, the brake pedal has a locked solid shaft that is also bushed, and it slides into the welded tube. Then on the far left of that shaft, is a short lever with same copied bolthole ratio as the old master, to go to the existing brake master. The C/E pedal mount being discarded,you lose the M/C mount:.. you must now make a thick new plate for the brake master, much like the OP made for the clutch master. Weld it to the frame and X to make the new pedal mount very solid.


Sort of what it looks like together:



and finally, a "front mounted" bellcrank to push back on the TOB arm. I think front mount might be better in this chassis????


Just trying to keep some input coming, getting more ideas, or mods to other ideas?
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A few pics of mechanical linkage on a 32 at the Good Guys show last year in FLA.

 

That's another good view of how simple a bellcrank can be made to fit a particular build. I can't tell for sure, but that motor could be a bit higher in the chassis than most?

and I see he made a spare hole on the inner bell lever during the mock-up.
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You can make the 39 clutch pedal push or pull simply by driving out the clutch pedal shaft pin, flip the shaft 180, then replace the pin. (This positions the clutch shaft linkage mount top or bottom to push or pull as needed.)

 

Of course I was just trying to let the OP know it wasn't plug and play.

 

You do not have to trim that much of the X-leg, and you can gusset it back to the frame after trimming.

The amount of travel the clutch pedal needs is limited by the toe board, long before it hits the bottom of that round hole the pedal is currently in.

We have built dozens of '32 with this pedal / X-member setup.

http://clarkehotrods.com/2015/1932-ford-clutch-pedal-assembly

 

Tim, after looking at all this information, I like your set up best. The only problem that I have is that I still don't understand how to mount the piece that has the two tabs on it. I think it's called the jack shaft? Any way a parts list for the jack shaft would really help me.

So as of now, if I can figure out how to copy Tim's set up then that is what I will do. If not, I will stick with my hyd clutch plan.

I see an opportunity to make a weld it yourself kit, Tim. I know that I am not the only person wanting to do this. Thanks Tim for your help so far.