I have been blocking my car out( nason 2k urethane primer) On the low spots and pin holes can I put evercoat quantum 1 right on top of the primer? Or do I need to sand the primer off and go directly on the filler or epoxy? Also how do I block big round corners without getting flatspots? Rear upper corners on my tudor. Thanks
Usually, the primer goes over the filler. Some have argued that you can't directly put the filler over epoxy primer and that it should go directly to bare metal, depends on whom you talk too. I can see advantages and disadvantages to both methods (ie: trapping moisture under the bare metal, not enough tooth for the filler to bite when applied to epoxy,) Why did you put 2K down first? jw. I would scuff the 2K with an aggressive sand paper, 60-80 grit if you were to apply filler over the 2K if it were to break through to bare metal, I think that would be a little better. Remember 2k is a primer an can absorb moisture if left out for a while..might cause adhesion issues and trapped moisture underneath applied filler FYI. Corner sanding would be easier with a flexible longboard that can reach around entire corner something along the lines of this:
Sorry,I didn't explain well I put epoxy on the bare metal then filler,then primed 3 coats 2k ,blocked. I have some pin holes and low spots. Would like to know if I can put quantum on them without sanding back down to the epoxy or filler? I have an avs flexible sander 16" but still get flats on the compound corners
I'm not a body man, but I have recently worked side-by-side with one on my car. We just finished my paint job and saw the same process you're describing happen. Epoxy primer, block sanding, followed by 2K primer, followed by final block sanding. When pinholes and low spots were found, he used 3M Platinum Finishing Glaze right on top of the urethane primer. I think your Evercoat Quantum I is too heavy (and a different product) for finish work. The finishing glazes are specifically designed for this work. As for the sanding, use a flexible block, use cross hatch motions, and keep the block moving on the landscape to avoid cut lines and flat spots. In other words, don't stroke the same spot twice in the same direction at the same time.
Oh ok, I understood it differently. Are the spots low enough to where you need filler or can you spray a couple more coats of 2k and re-sand? if they're too low, I would use a lightweight filler that would cover the low spots and pinholes at once, evercoat polyester filler/glaze coat is good for this. Use a little more aggressive sandpaper where you apply the filler in the low spots for a good bite. As far as the flexible sanding around corners, are you guide coating them to see where the panel is at? what grit are you using on them? a finer grit on the longboard will minimize the flat spots, but not too fine otherwise the basecoat won't have any tooth to bite onto.
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