Technical Vintage Ansen NHRA bellhousing & block saver plate question

I have an early 60's Ansen 2 piece bell & block saver. The block saver plate is 1/4" steel, & it installs between the block & bellhousing. fwd of the flywheel.

Will this cause problems with the trans input (pilot) shaft going the crank bushing 1/4" less?

Thanks

Here is a sample pic

http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/80/8580/001.jpg

 

Do you really need to install the block saver?
The bell housing no longer is certified for anything, but street use.
KK

 

I need to install it because my driveshaft was built with the plate thickness factored in

 

They didn't in the 60's. I've used two and still have one loose. If you are worried
put the trans in with some prussian blue to verify the penetration

 

When these saver plates are installed, what's the min depth of the input shaft, & how do you go about adjusting it?

 

Assuming you have a bronze pilot and its tight, I'd assemble it with a .600 penetration,
The needle bearing pilot bearings that I've used recently have another 1/8" extension when seated. Also I think your driveshaft yoke can accomodate 1/4" extra insertion...its made to move in and out

 

I've owned several vintage bellhousings but I've never seen one with a 1/4 motor plate. That's a hefty chunk of metal. Anyway, if you do have one that thick, you might want one of these motor plate style, extra long pilot bushings from Speedway. Heck, I've been using them in regular applications because I like the extra support on the transmission input shaft.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-Extra-Long-Pilot-Bushing,6974.html

 

The crank has the needle pilot bearing. Will check to see if it sticks out farther ('70 vette replacement forged crank)

As for the driveshaft, what's a safe minimum insertion depth into the trans? Maybe I'm good as-is.

Thanks

 

The input shaft/bushing penetration should be at least equal to the diameter of the shaft. I've never liked those needle bearing replacements. Many input shafts don't have the proper hardening to have a bearing riding on them like that. I like the bushings.

 

Thanks for that link. I'm going to get one. The needle pilot brg came installed from chevy (NOS - unused). I think the crank # is 1182 or 1184

Here's a pic of it installed without the block saver. Shifter mount is custom (moved forward 4" from the stock location)

 

yeah .250" block plate seems a bit thicker than I've seen....mines half. Anyway the driveshaft yoke might have a +- .500" travel w/ suspension action (particularly leafs). I'm assuming you have ~3"
of yoke at static ride ht.

Also it sounds like you are on top of a lot ....but are you sure the bellhousing/trans index is centered on the crank. Different blocks often require using offset guide pins to gain better
centering. Zero run is good, but .030" is probably max runout

 

I'll get the driveshaft yoke depth measurement & let you know. Once I'm all set on that, I will make sure the runout is ok. thanks again