Had the headlight wires running from this hole, but decided to run them into the cross member instead, for a little neater look. You can see the new hole inside the cross member in this picture. I cut a slug out of a piece of scrap.
Primed. PPG NCP 271-3 coats. Bought a Harbor Freight touch up gun to get into the cross member. Worked great.
Don't want to press my luck anymore then I already have. Hobby Air 1 forced air system with full hood.
PPG Concept single stage acrylic urethane. Two coats. Had a few runs, and a fair amount of dirt so I unplugged the gun and walked away. I'll fix it and try again after a little break.
That is the way to do it. Step back get your mojo back and try again. Can't do that working on patiently waiting customers cars. Wait isn't that an oxymoron?
Try wetting the floor to keep the dust down, we use to do it in all the dross flow booths, the new down draft seem to have solved this problem. Good luck with your painting , like your build. Frank
Thanks Frank. I wet the floor down and by the time I was ready to shoot it dried out! I was all geared up in my forced air hood and when I grabbed the water hose it was kinked outside the garage. No water! I should have unplugged and went outside to unkink the hose, but figured it would be alright. I was wrong.
The first two coats will give you a good base to work off, just color sand it flat and reapply. Put the first coat on and let it tack up real good then second coat and wait till tacky and you can put a wet coat on top.. If your first coats don't tack up good you are going to get a run. The 1st. Tack coat is the key. Kind of like glue, PPG is what I like to shoot, their shop line is a good alternative in solid colors for the $$. Did you use 9700 black? The correct temperature reducer plays a important part. Get a test panel and do a spray out on it and look at the panel as you apply, after the tack coat the second pas should melt in. I usually look at it from the side so I can see how it's laying down and melting in ( no dry spots) this will help you keep the peal out. Congratulations on getting a fresh air hood they great , I used one for the last 20+ years, so much better than just a respirator. Just take your time and do a spray out and pay attention to the paint as it hits the panel and I think it will be ok. I painted a lot cars in crappy booths and they came out ok. One of the slickest Enamel jobs I ever painted I did outside after a light rain because the booth was tied up. Will be watching to see the final product. Frank
Thanks for all the information Frank. Great stuff. I don't have the can in front of me but I think it was 9300? Concept single stage. I used dt870 reducer, temps where 70-75 when I spayed. I actually was pretty happy with how the paint laid out. My biggest problem was technique. The few runs I had where because I was not moving the gun fast enough. Having a blast learning new stuff!
Just about everyone likes a basic black hot rod, your hot rod looks great.......a few like some scroll work, a few like skinny flames, a few like purple and blue flames ..........some hate scroll work, some hate skinny flames........skip the trendy stuff, if you want to do more to it, put a hood on it!
Hey Novaron, I painted my New Age Motorsports body with PPG Concept. I used a Devilbiss 670 high efficency gun (not HVLP). I found that if I over reduced the mix by 1 part (4 parts paint, 3 parts reducer DT 870, 1 part hardner DCX61) It flowed out better and used less material. My experence with the paint was it seemed to lay out a little to thick. Be sure to let it flash completely between coats. It seems more prone to solvent pop than other paints I have used. I painted three coats on the exterior body that will be wet sanded and rubbed, two coats on other stuff. Your project looks good, I think you will be really happy with the New Age Body. Even though I did a lot of refining on my body to make it perfect, I think its still the best fiberglass 32 5 window body produced. I have looked at some really bad ones. When the time comes to do the body, be sure to look for air pockets in the fiberglass under the gel coat and pinholes and address them. You dont want them to pop up or the gel coat to break open after its painted. My body had some in tight corner areas like around the firewall and other places and didnt really see them until I started to prep the body. I guess its the nature of the beast as it is a handmade body. I spent a lot of time refining the body to make it as perfect as I could, like around the windshield, drip rails, door gaps and fit etc. My body also sat a year before paint. By then it was fully cured. Once the stink is out of it its fully cured and done shrinking. Bill
Thanks Bill for all the info. The painting thing is all new to me so the learning curve is pretty high, but lots of fun. Luckyly between the HAMB, and some friends, I've gotton some really good advise. I'm also using a Divilbiss 670. Nice gun. Have not started on the body, just painting the frame and will reassemble the car over the winter. Of course I'll have to paint the bottom of the body as well as the firewall prior to assembly, but plan on doing the bodywork and paint next summer. At that point the body will be well over a year old. I agree that the Newage body is very nice. And thank you for your positive input. Ron
Frame painted again. Came out much better this time. Fixed the runs and imperfections and sanded with 1000 wet. Put on 2 more coats. Will still have to wet sand and polish though, 2 small runs and a few dry spots . Lessons of the day: Move the gun faster to avoid runs and practice makes... better! Up next is paint the firewall, gas tank and bottom of the body and then reassemble. Pyched!!
Never mind the imperfections in the frame paint this Hot Rod will be going so fast nobody will even get to see the frame.
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