Technical anyone tried CLR to unstick a frozen short block?

Just curious, I have a rust seized short block here I am trying to un-stick, its on its second treatment with the atf/acetone mix. Just wondering, has anyone tried CLR for this? Hey, the label says it "dissolves rust", right? Or am I going to be the guinnea pig?

 

I've always used Coke,,it works. HRP

 

I think you will be the "guinnea pig" !
I hope it works for you, you will be a pioneer!
KK

 

With or without a straw?

 

Coke, then Marvels

 

HRP

 

I cant get marvel in Canada anymore. I'll give it a couple more days with the latest dose of AFT/acetone, if that doesn't do it, I'll give the CLR a shot. Pretty good test, if the 50/50 mix cant do it, and the CLR does, that is pretty impressive, not that I really expect it to work...

 

I believe it's the phosphoric acid in both Coke and CLR that hits the rust (though it may have been removed now, at least from CLR). Same stuff as in metal prep and wheel cleaners. I use it all the time for light rust removal, might try it on a cylinder but not sure how it reacts with aluminum, check around.

 

How about some Kroil, Their website says it creeps into millionth inch spaces, breaks bonds due to rust, corrosion, contamination, or compression and lubricates to loosen frozen metal parts.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

After you've used coke,clr Marvel, atf or any thing else, try to spin it backwards first.
you'll be pulling away from the rust not trying to push thru it. Has worked for me m,any times. JMHO.

 

The pistons are wasted anyway. I am trying to get it to turn over so I can remove the trans. yanking the trans input shaft out of the converter with the converter bolted to the flex plate will often damage the input shaft id rather avoid it, but if push comes to shove...

 

I have leaned on it in both directions

 

2x on what Mark T said about Kroil, will un-stick anything
http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

well.....no matter which rotation...some pistons will be pushed up and some will be pulled down..unless you have some special kind of motor ... like a one banger

 

I never use the crank bolt to break the pistons loose. I always work with the flywheel teeth against either a starter opening or a bolt in one bell housing hole...something close to the teeth to give the most pressure on the fulcrum principle. I have a variety of straight and angled pry bars

i only look for a few thousanths in either direction at first, before really going at it.
.

 

I've always liked PB Blaster. Got loose some really stuck nuts and bolts for me.

 

Bust the center out of the pistons , or hole saw them if you don't care.

 

I just used evapo- rust to clean a 32 gas tank , it worked slow but worked good , didnt attack other metals in it , you can buy it by the gallon or orielly has 5 gallon buckets also pretty sure it is ok for cast iron also

 

Coca Cola is a dollar a 2 liter bottle here, (Walmart) and the ads don't lie.

"Things" go better with Coke.

 

A friend of mine says he has used muriatic acid on stuck engines, but be sure you have plenty of material to bore. Fumes are very nasty, too.

Gary

 

I thought I've seen MMO at Canadian tire, or was it Lordco? If I see it next time I'll send you a PM.

 

I had great success with Moovit available at Princess Auto.

 

I checked Canadian tire a couple weeks ago, no dice. I heard they used to carry it a few years back. I am going to try the CLR on the other bank tomorrow, I'm curious.

 

I tried murratic acid once on cast iron , the cylinder turned to dust.. It seemed to pull the carbon

 

If you want to stay safe then Kroil is excellent and give it plenty of time (days maybe a week or two) and a squirt a day. If you are in a hurry and don't care too much about other metals being damaged, rubber seals damaged, etc. Then I'd use muratic acid with goggles, a respirator, and excellent ventilation. Be careful and good luck. Have a plan for an eyewash and rinse your skin in case of contact. Wear tall nitrile gloves too.

 

If all else fails, use an old timers trick, Oil of wintergreen. Best damned penetrating oil you can get. We used it in the navy to free frozen multiple disc clutches on Grey Marine diesels. It'll get rid of mice in your shop & kill cockroaches too. Just don't get it on your skin or in your eyes. Burns just like a hand full of hot barbeque charcoal.

 

Find this stuff called "Knock'er'loose".

 

"Knock'er'loose".....no no....I can't say it....

 

No phos acid in CLR , they use lauramine oxide ( a form of amine) to remove the rust .

I doubt it would work on heavy deposits as amine solutions only work on ferrous oxide or iron in a small amount ( stains ) , but will not touch Aluminum ,

to dissolve the aluminum piston use sodium hydroxide ( LYE ) mixed with water it will change to aluminum hydroxide so your going to need a decent amount ( 1 gallon or so ) ,if you can get industrial Hydroxide ( caustic soda ) it will work better , nuetralize with Vinager and water ( and wear PPE as it will eat flesh and instantly blind you if you get it in your eyes ) and the powder will stick to your hands

 

Cutting torch to the rods, or unbolt from crank and pound out unless you want to save them....Vinegar would have been my first choice, tried clr in a radiator and didn't do much at all but seems to work on house hold stuff..I don't know what engine but here is a wild one: Take all the rod caps off, main caps off, knock out bell housing dowels out and remove crank and trans as an assembly sliding everything down from pan rail.....