I have a 54 chevy hard top that I'm trying to get running. At this point I'm trying to fix the electrical but this is where I'm a bit clueless. I've attached a diagram as to how the car is wired now. It was previously switched over to a three wire alternator but I don't think it was done correctly. Some of the issues I'm having are: 1. Alternator isn't charging the battery 2. the car starts when the key is released after being turned all the way to the right (hope that makes sense) 3. I'm not sure if the alternator wire with the diode should go to ignition 1 or ignition 2, and if the diode is in the right direction. Any info is greatly appreciated as I would love to get this car running properly. Thanks in advance for any info shared. Mike
The tough part is usually getting the pictures to show up....keep trying! Also, it would help if you do a little testing, and let us know which terminals on the ignition switch are "hot" when the key is in which position. Especially IGN 1 and IGN 2. Specifically, is each one hot when the key is in "run", and what about "start"?
easiest way to fix the not runnign when cranking problem, is connect the R terminal on the starter solenoid, to the + terminal on the coil. Use yellow wire, so it follows the GM color scheme. looks like the diode is properly wired. What voltage do you get at the battery when the engine is off, and when it's running?
Term 1 on the alt goes to either a indicator lamp or a diode that is connected to ignition 1 on your switch and term 2 gets hooked back to the battery post on the alt. The battery term goes to the starter or battery.
is this a new problem? how much of system has been changed over to 12v ? a good book to have in your hands "How To Wire Your Streetrod From Start To Finish" by Jack Sweeden - do not let use of streetrod term in title scare you away - has lots of basics for the every day ride with simple drawings.
Or you could connect the IGN 2 terminal directly to the coil, and the IGN 1 terminal thru the ballast resistor to the coil.
This is an "old problem". I just bought the car a few weeks ago and had to jump start it to get it running. One other thing I forgot to mention was that the previous owner had a jumper going from IGN-1 to IGN-2 for some reason. At first I figured the alternator needed to be excited since it probably sat for so long. So, when I did the procedures to do that it started putting out 16-17 Volts when wired up as a single wire (only one wire from BATT term on alternator going to the battery). I just wired up the diode yesterday and haven't plugged in that wire (Term-1) to the ignition switch yet since I wasn't sure where it goes.
As for the ballast resistor..might help to get a little more info about the distributor, and the coil. If it has points in the distributor, and the coil is an normal old one that does not have a built in ballast resistor, you need a ballast resistor. If you have something different, let us know and we can help you figure it out. Also, pictures of stuff like the alternator, and the coil, and the ignition switch, are helpful so we can know for sure what parts you have. There are many possibilities, and we have to guess....????
Do not use the + post on the coil for power to the electric choke. After you install the proper ballast resistor in the ign 1 wire to the coil, you would also be dropping the voltage to the choke. Run the choke wire to a 12 volt source on your fuse block that is hot only with the ignition on.
xracer - good catch - so, what motor do you have? guessing V8 since choke has electric choke. yep, we need pics
Engine- 1959 235 chevy I'm not sure how many amps the alternator is putting out (I'll test it today) but I'm guessing the wire going from the alternator to the battery should be a thicker gauge.
10 gauge should be ok for that wire. Are there any markings on the coil, indicating a part number, or whether or not a ballast resistor is required?
I took another look at the coil and this is what it says 12V Use with primary resistance wire or external resistor 067V Looks like I'll be making a trip to the auto parts store. =) This car has been butchered so there isn't a fuse box hooked up to anything.
That almost looks like what I started with. When my 216 was 'converted', they wired an electric fuel pump and a radio among other things directly to the coil.
Alright, so I'd like to conclude this thread with what I did to fix the problems. As of now the system runs great and my alternator is steadily charging my battery at 13.6 volts. =) 1. Added a ballast resistor between the + side of the coil and IGN-1 on the ignition switch 2. Added wire to connect the R terminal on the starter solenoid to the + side of the coil 3. Added a diode (1N5404 with white band on alternator side) on the wire connected to Term-1 of the alternator and attached the other end to IGN-2 on the ignition switch 4. Connected the + wire coming from the carb to IGN-1 on the ignition switch. (my plans are to add a fuse later on) I'd like to thank everyone who chimed in on this thread. All your input helped me solve the electrical problem. Thanks! Now, I gotta figure out how to wire up the aftermarket headlights/tail lights to an aftermarket switch. =)
You might want to check out this guy's web site on redoing his 54 chevy wiring. http://my54chevy.com/page10/page10.html
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