Oh cool. Look at that. I still contend that for a first attempt at building a car, starting with a good original frame is the way to go.
I will follow your advice. I am going to find a good frame; I have an ad up on the classifieds for a frame both here and on fordbarn. A man got back to me at fordbarn with an ok frame at a higher price and about a hundred miles away, so I held off. Meanwhile mr. Bowling has been helping me and has been on the search. First one was a wee expensive and had some work that was still needed to it crossmember wise, so I am still in the hunt. EDIT: been re-reading the thread and I am sorry for the scatter-brained plans going on. I guess I am just going through a novice cycle as in 'make it work' and then 'just buy it new' and finally 'O crap, those people on the hamb do make sense sometimes and I can get an original frame that is better than mine for a whole lot less than a new one'. So, apologies extended to you all. I will try to make a real 'build' thread from now on as in me doing the building more than the stupid planning. Thanks for all of the patience though!
On lighter news, I love my speed blaster... Ppg dp90lf with the 401 activator and medium temp reducer along with hf spray gun tomorrow morning once I set up my 'booth' Edit: Set up my booth and it came out great. But now it is already too hot for my reducer. Paint tomorrow morning.
Yup. Gets the job done for me. Can get bad rust off, but since I got molasses, I can put the piece in there and then I get to use less media. Anyway, laid paint this morning. IMHO, the wheels look really cool after the paint. Everything else also looks nice...
Will be there. I hope to start getting a lot done now that I am out of work for the summer. I was on a six month co op that had me working ~50 hrs a week. Now I get to spend the money... The front spring was super easy. Too easy. Put on my flip flops after... Now these are tough! One came out good. I smashed the threads on the other one, but I had the casselated nut on there and it was ripping threads off! Decided I had to save at least one part, so I will try to straighten the threads soon. Definitely makes you feel tough after you take these out!
Whoah! I had to get a friend with a torch to get mine apart- tough guy. The tire on that orange wheel, you have two of those? I need tires 16in
I do have another orange. The red is actually a 15 inch I picked up at candia because it holds air and wheels around good. The orange other one don't hold air and has flat spots. Tire is a Mohawk? Or something, mike bowling said he had the same treads... Btw, that three pound hammer earned its stripes... Anyway, having a problem with this bugger. The bearing must have rust in it or some grit; don't turn good at all! Need a wrench to turn it. So I have the torque tube off, but I cannot take the shaft out! Ideas??? (I oiled the shaft and scotch brited some surface rust away. Good thing I took it apart!)
I'm glad to see that you have decided to go with an original Model A frame. It makes the most sense to me, given what you have planned for the car. Good luck with the build.
Yup, correct, and thanks. Now on to how it is, I have made my decisions on the build for how it is to be done. I am going to keep it unchanneled, as I believe the right way to channel the car would be to have an integrated floor without box reinforcement; which would require the use of a bead roller; a 16 gauge one would run a grand. Would be sick; but not for this build. Once I get one under my belt maybe. So, that brookville floor actually cost the same as materials, so I will get that once I get the drivetrain finished. That will also sure up the body alignment process. I will keep the splash aprons on the car and chop once I feel like it; as I want to drive it one day! Still hunting for a frame, a local man named Clyde is on the lookout for me. I need tips to get the driveshaft out, because those bearings are bad. And to end on a high note, here is my truck all loaded to go to candia. A ton of junk going cheap to just give me more space! Some will be free at the end of the day. Edit: just wanted to add that I was able to free up the bearing with a torch, penetrating oil, and a blow gun. Lubed with bearing grease and works like a champ. And I just wanted to thank you guys for the help, and I hope that this is the first rid of many, so that is why I am taking the route I am, just to get it on the road. I think that a hotrodder back in the day my age would do the same modifications to their car as my build will show. Thanks!
Another shiny byproduct from about three hours of sanding... Ends and intricate spots to be gotten by blasting. Now onto the swap meet. Nice to see everyone, but didn't move anything. Kinda sobering I guess as I saw person after person walk by chuckling at the rust... But I guess it is what it is; as I brought only stuff I no longer need. Tomorrow I move onto the front end as the rear is done; excluding brakes.
Kinda a one sided conversation going on here, but here is the ultimate video of my frame. Covers everything you could ask. I was just doing some time figuring out and if I bought a frame, it would be September at least before I got a rolling chassis. Now, I just want to make sure that you guys think this frame is roached, as I put some money into it. Look at code 504 boxer plates and tell me if those could maybe save me.
I'm assuming you have seen this frame for sale, no connection to the seller, no idea if is what you need or if it's any better than the one you have, but...seems close enough to you to be worth checking out. http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/5120338439.html
Man, you gotta start posting stills and not just video. Bring that thing by tomorrow and we'll go over it if you want. I can show you where the Woburn Metal Supermarket is too.
That NH frame is Roachy.... I need to talk with General Gow, but we might be able to help on the frame front. Keep moving forward!
I am going to visit pat because from what I am seeing, the new frames will need more work that the one I already have. If I can use 504 boxing rails, I would rather do that, but if it is toast, it's toast. Only reason I did the video was so that I could get everything. I did the squareness tests as well as the full frame review. I understand the handiness of stills, but i believe I covered a lot more in stills than I could of in photos.
Does this mean that patmanta did your Tardel style kick up, and you are running you frame, or did he find you a frame, and did the kick up? Loks good!!
Well, it has some meat on it in some spots, and it will definitely work with my boxing plates; no need to run 504 plates. He did the kickup with his portaband, as I only have an angle grinder and the portaband gives a great finish. We marked it out to be 4 inches in so that hopefully body mounts will remain the same-ish. Look at what I made this morning for it...
Wheelbase 103 1/2" C front X member to C rear X member, and make sure you do diagonals!!! With that, everything will line up as stock. You will have to modify your sub frame for the kick, no big deal.
I took a look today and figured that I can run that kind of piece shown above for any real length from two, as shown, to maybe four inches. That will allow me to get around the hole issue. Still debating leveling the rear. And to mike, good to know! That must be a horizontal measurement. I will have to run a plumb bob or like to the floor and measure that. And to you all, just wanted to ask what this meant; inside the torque tube behind the bearing. Love finding this kinda stuff...
I just put bolts up through the spring locater pin hole; also works for the diagonals- radiator holes in front, body mounting holes on outside "ears" of the rear X member. Keep in mind with the diagonals, if there's a 1/4 " difference, it only takes an 1/8 inch to correct it- when you gain on one dimension you loose the same amount on the other. Balance, Grasshopper.
We checked it laterally from the center crossmember and diagonally once we found good holes. The first ones we tried were a quarter off from each other! I only put 2 tacks on there so it'll be easier to move if need be.
Bought front brakes today. Can someone tell me what is up with this kingpin? Only bought the drums setup. Just trying to make it work... Here is what the rear end looks like. Passenger radius rod is not cooperating.
What do you mean about the kingpin? Looks like a kingpin to me. Try taking the rods off and switching them to the other side.
The Jalopy Journal
