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Hot Rods Chevy 235 differences, need advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clank187, Jul 20, 2015.

  1. Clank187
    Joined: Jul 20, 2015
    Posts: 6

    Clank187

    Howdy all! I have a 1960 biscayne that I am starting to rebuild and I need some advice on what parts to get rebuilding the engine. Motor sounds to be in terrible shape, suspect bearings, crank, and possibly a rod or two... it is a 235, but, upon doing a little prep work, the casting numbers say that
    a) the motor was made in Feb of 1961
    2) it was originally mated to a 2 speed power glide auto.

    Now, Feb of 61? Yeah, ok, I can see this having possibly been a late productioned car or the motor needed to be replaced or something like that. But, the car I have is a 3 on the tree standard, lol. So it looks to be I have a Frankenstein car of sorts. So, I know that years... 58 is it? through 62 are all the same generation, if you will, 235, but am I wrong? Do they differ any? If not by year, what about between being mated to a standard or an automatic? Thank you all for your help.
     
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,660

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    If there are any differences the parts supplier should know about it. In some cases they want the serial number to be sure.
     
  3. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,874

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    '58-'62 all share the same insides. It'll need to be bored, crank turned, rods resized, cam & lifters refaced (unless still hydraulic in which case I'd go solids), & replace all bearings with the best quality you can find. If you're lucky, the head won't be cracked. Buying a "parts" engine is never a bad idea. Oil filter is a matter of choice - some full flow them, others prefer to just change oil regularly. Mild cam profile, 9:1 compression & some headers will wake it up a bit ...
     
  4. Clank187
    Joined: Jul 20, 2015
    Posts: 6

    Clank187

    Thanks 302. I am assuming most of that work will be done at a machine shop that I'll basically drop it off to and pick it up from whenever they say it is ready. If I really want to hot rod it up as weekend cruiser toy, is there anything I would want to make sure that they do? Also, I admit ignorance and am a bit lost about what you mean when you say 9:1 compression.

    Another thing I have noticed doing some parts shopping is that basically the automatics had hydrolic lifters and the manuals had mechanical, or, solid? Does anyone know the difference? Thankyou!
     

  5. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 715

    studebaker46
    Member

    a 1960 chev is 55 years old so no surprise about the different engine you are right about the lifters stick had solids autos had hyd never new the reason for that. if you want to hotrod it why not a small block, then you will never have to say I could have had a v/8 tom
     
  6. Clank187
    Joined: Jul 20, 2015
    Posts: 6

    Clank187

    Meh, I appreciate the opinion Studebaker but I just have to do things the hard way, lol. I'm not looking to break any records, I just want one sick six, within some degree of financial reason, of course.
     
  7. RiffTannen
    Joined: Jun 17, 2013
    Posts: 77

    RiffTannen
    Member
    from Chicago


    From 1956 to 1962, all passenger car 235 I6 engines had hydraulic lifters.

    For what it's worth, if it were me I'd yank the I6 and get a 283. The only reason I think to keep the 6 is if it's in an original survivor - which yours is not. The 283 and associated parts will be more plentiful and easier to work on. Just my $0.02.
     
  8. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,660

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    There are things you can do to hop up your engine but it would be best to keep yours stock.

    With a heavy car a stock motor will work better and cost less.
     

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