Hot Rods Anyone used a later model radiator in your hot rod?

I have been planning on using a stock Ford 1935 radiator that I had some mods done to for the Produce truck, but with this being a cross country driver, I am starting to rethink this. I am building a fairly built SBC 327 for this build.

I know the easiest is to just choke down $600-$1000, but that goes against my nature. I'm cheap, but these scare me.http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALL-ALUMINU...ght-/121018395383?hash=item1c2d422af7&vxp=mtr
My dad used an 80's Ford and modified it, but he's not sure what it came out of or if radiator shops even do that kinda work anymore.

Thoughts?

 

Later model than what?

Root you know me I will use whatever I can get my hands on to make one go. Maybe compromise and look at an aluminum rad from a reputable supplier one that you can reach out and touch if need be. I know that Summit racing sells a good product for a reasonable price for instance and I am sure that jegs does as any number of other suppliers.

 

1935. Yeah, I'm just kinda leery of these new fangled aluminum radiators. The local radiator shop says stay away from epoxy in the headers.

 

Root,granted the copper/brass radiators are pricy but there is no doubt they do the job,I have NEVER had a problem with Walker Radiators designed for the particular installation,I can't say that with aluminum radiators. HRP

 

Yep a welded radiator or brazed is what you want.

I run brass most of the time but I think that a quality aluminum properly installed shouldn't be a problem. brass is certainly the better choice in my book, but like I said earlier I'll run anything that I can lay my hands on.

 

If your tanks are in good condition, another option is to have your 35 rad re-cored with a modern high efficiency copper core. Usually less cost than a new "hot rod" rad. This also produces a rad that is bolt in.

 

I'm using an early Mustang copper/brass radiator in my '36 Ford shell.

Gary

 

Yes,
Brassworks and Walker
Make sure you get enough tube rows and fin count

 

Either have yours re cored (most places won't touch the old honeycomb core to repair it) or junkyard another one and modify the ports. Older oem radiators = strong metal tanks that can be repaired.

 

measure the surface area and the number of rows of the radiator and compare them , a modern V-8 put less heat in the water compared to a flathead because of the location of the exhaust ports and the combustion heat .

 

I may just give Walker a call. Anyone know anything about CAR, Custom Auto Radiator or something like that.

 

Going to be hard to find a '35 radiator at Rock Auto. The one you had in the link may be fine though, find out who makes it and do your homework. I'm getting an aluminum one for my '59, made for a '69ish Ford Fairlane. All I need to do is pop a couple of extra holes in my radiator support.

 

The one thing I don't scrimp on is the cooling system as I drive my cars. My '32 had an aluminum radiator with a thermostatically controlled fan. Even when it was 100 degrees, the fan never came on. It ran at 180 all the time until it sprung a leak. Then I switched to a copper/brass radiator. My '52 Chevy has a U.S. radiator, 4 row, triple pass radiator as I run A/C. It works great with a mechanical fan and runs at 180 with the A/C on.

 

my 48 Ford has a GM Frame clip , and whoever did the clip used the GM Cross Flow Radiator turned 90 degrees with the Fill cap moved to the center of what is now the top tank, Works OK....stays cool with Electric Fan..

 

A couple years back I was going to get the rad recored in a belaire I was working on. 400 benjamins and didn't fit the budget. I bought an aluminum replacement ( MADE in USA) for 2 bills and the guy was happy with it. Wrong? Well restorer wrong I guess but it cooled the engine and that was what we wee after.

Root call walker first then think about what you are buying when you look at other options. Walker is competitively priced and unless you are in a financial bind they are not enough higher to make it worth the risk. You keep your cars and a Walker will give you years of trouble free driving. Pretty cheap piece of mind for the price I think.

 

Any properly sized and installed radiator will do the job but there are some considerations to be aware of. Aluminum is effected more by galvanic corrosion so be sure and use the correct coolant. Brass and copper cool better and can be soldered if a leak occurs. Using a stock unit from a junk yard would be quicker to replace on a road trip if a piece of rebar skewers it like a cocktail wienie.

 

This is the advice given to me by my local radiator guy, who is also a hot rod guy.
CAR called me back, they have a 3 year warranty on their stuff. Looks like $749 plus freight for a 5 row, 3" thick core. Waiting on Walker to call now.

 

Root,you might try calling a few vendors listed,Gary at Cornhuskers might be able to help you out. HRP

 

Almost all of my cars have 1965 mustang radiators in them. They are small, work well and napa has them for like 140$

 

The '55 Willys wagon I had a few years ago, the radiator in it was still marked '73 Pinto in salvage yard paint pen. Fit and seemed to work okay.

 

Anyone used a later model radiator in your hot rod?
Does a chicken have lips?
Of course many people do and always have used a later model radiator in their hot rods.
My radiator of choice has been the tri-five Chevy in my old Fords. Now I buy the new aluminum models thru Summit.
Of course in my 55 Chevy instead of a tri-five Chevy radiator I used a 70's GM cross flow aluminum radiator made for a big block.

 

Walker called me back. $654 plus freight. 10 year warranty

 

I have used many Walkers and never had one problem. That said, I bought a Champion aluminum radiator for my 40 tudor project. Mainly because I am trying to keep costs down, it will just be an around town car, and they seem to have a good reputation. The radiator in my 53 F100 is a 72 F100 because it came with the truck and fit well. It has been just fine. Had it checked and cleaned and no problems in the several years it has been in there.

 

I vote aluminum they are tuffer I've done rebuilders for my self where the radiator was deformed but didn't leak push it back straight and run it never had one give up.

 

I was talking to Danny this morning and it cam to me that another popular radiator was or is Harrison. You may look them up as well ( if they are still around).

 

65 Ford Mustang radiator in my 28 Model A, Got it on sale at Autozone for $105.00 copper and brass can't go wrong..

 

I forgot to mention US Radiator.

http://www.usradiator.com/

 

The nose in my avatar is fitted for a '65 Mustang radiator. It was a '29 Model A grill shell.

 

Yep, used the 1965 Mustang radiator too. Cheap, available locally, small.

 

If your tanks are okay, and you put a new core in it, you effectively, almost, have a new radiator.
I would be surprised if your 1935 radiator has not been recored in the past.
I used a fordson tractor radiator in my '32 grille.....and had a new core put in it.