Can someone pretend I'm an idiot - that's not hard, I'm sure - and explain how to use this? Do I even want to mess around with it? I bught it at a garage auction, fairly cheap. Appears it's been sitting for a long time, so it could even be junk. I see the plate fits the top of the master, and uses a chain clamp to tighten it in place, and the line from the tank connects to it with a regular air fitting, then I presume I turn the valve to release some air/fluid into the master. Do I use the same air fitting from a chuck on a compressor to charge it? I don't see any other connections. There's some liquid in the tank, presumably old brake fluid I should get rid of and replace. ? Google wants to sell me a new one of some sort when I look on there.
You are right, its an old brake pressure bleeder, used them many years back when most m/cyls were single and one adaptor plate suited most m/cylinder reservoirs.. They worked well, using air pressure applied to the drum (but cant remember how much) which forces the brake fluid thru the brake lines, allowing for a one man brake bleed.. As for the fluid in it, last time I used one of these was in the 70s, so if yours has been sitting for that long it's probably past its used by date..
Using one of these is the best way to bleed a brake system. There is a rubber bladder in the top half that brake fluid is contained in, and low psi (5-15) air in the lower half compresses the bladder and forces the fluid out. You need to completely disassemble the bleeder before use, pitch any fluid, and inspect and THOROUGHLY clean the bladder, any adapters, and flush the hose with isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
V8bob, i agree with what you posted except for the alcohol callout. I agree that cleaning with isopropyl alcohol will clean out the old brake fluid and any grease or oil that may be present. Isopropyl alcohol is also referred to as rubbing alcohol, not denatured. Denatured alcohol is used in those hot plate food warmers - once it's on fire it's difficult to put out. If there are any rubber seals or gaskets, do not use acetone or brake cleaner - this will dry the rubber to the point that it will fail.
Your correct. We used isopropyl from 55 gallon drums on brake work where/when I worked, but now retired I buy denatured by the gallon at any hardware/big box store. They both work equally well IMO cleaning brake parts and equipment as well as fluid removal from fittings, paint, hands etc. I changed my previous post.
Enjoy your garage art. Your life's worth more than the chance you take contaminating your brake system with whatever is in that relic.
If the tool was mine I would put it in with the other old tools I have collected so when young guys ask what it is I can do a little teaching. As for bleeding brakes there is the old partner method where your wife/girlfriend/child/or volunteer pumps the pedal until you say " hold it down" then open the bleed screw and repeat until there are no more bubbles. The Mighty-Vac tool works good when you are alone but the newer reverse bleeder system works great. Start with the wheel farthest from the M/C and pump fluid into the wheel cylinder back to the M/C. I tried it on a new M/C that was not bench bled and the pedal was hard.
That "old" tool is still available new, and in use (or should be) by professional brake techs/mechanics, as it allows the best bleeding/flushing method by a single person, while keeping the fluid as fresh as possible.
Brake fluid absorbs water out of the air and goes bad. In an unsealed system you should replace it every year or 2 years. Whatever is in that thing, you should clean it VERY thoroughly before you use it. Unless you have a brake shop where you bleed brakes every day, clean it out after you use it and put it away for next time. Do not use fluid that has been in it for more than a week.
The picture looks like dirty rusty junk I wouldn't bring anywhere near my brakes but maybe it will clean up.
We fix up dirty rusty junk cars, why not dirty rusty junk tools? I just hate to spend more money on it for my occasional uses than it would cost to go to HF and get the latest made in China equivalent. I bought it in part because anything GM with a GM disc/drum combo valve (the one that cuts off one side when there's a leak) is just about impossible to bleed via pedal. It trips the valve every time. Didn't matter what I did, following GM's directions in the shop manual for the vehicle, whatever. You have to either pressure bleed or gravity bleed. Or reverse bleed would work I suppose too. I can probably clean up the topper piece and use that to start a gravity bleed with a little air pressure on the hose. And by little I mean a hand pump or something. The rubber on it looks to be in decent shape.
Just make sure you can "squeeky" clean the rubber diaphragm, hose etc. before trying to use it. If the rubber or hose appear deteriorated, don't use them. Replacement diaphragms and parts may be available for some of these older bleeders. It's best to use regulated shop air to keep the pressure (and fluid flow) constant while in use. Many years ago I installed small regulators on each bleeder at work, and did the same to my personal home bleeder, allowing any full shop air drop without worry. You only need 5-10 psi max to properly bleed.
I just made a pressure bleeder out of a 1/2 gallon pressurized fertilizer sprayer. Similar to the ones shown in these how to videos. You can pump it with fluid in it to push thru the system, or pump it with empty reservoir for pressure to push the fluid thru. This set up was good enough to bleed my late model with ABS, so it should work on a residual valve. The pump sprayer is $5, and is clean plastic. Flush out what you have and hook it up to the new tank. http://m.youtube.com/results?q=diy brake pressure bleeder&sm=1 http://www.menards.com/main/outdoor...-sprayer/p-2702695-c-10116.htm?freeFormRowId=
I just saw this post. I have one of those in about the same condition that I bought at an auction, garage sale or somthing. I really don't remember since it was 5-10 years ago. Anyhooo the info in the thread will go a long way toward getting it operational, if i ever get to it. Thanks, Norm
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