Couple of questions regarding venting the SBC and an oil filler tube source...

Another vote for concern about the epoxy.

What you gotta realize is even though the intake itself probably won't hit 240 due to cool air on one side, +240 oil temps are extremely common and that baffle's gonna get oil splash. But I could be full of shit. Wouldn't be the first time.

What are you gluing on a SBC intake/cover swap? I like to RTV the valve cover gaskets to the covers, but that's only for ease of future disassembly and reuse. Otherwise all the gaskets you used will work fine dry and using adhesives only increases the risk of leakage. Early on I glued the fawk out of everything. As I backed out of blindly following chemical retailer's advice my junk started leaking a lot less. True.

good luck with the truck

 

lol!

 

RTV silicone.
Also, make sure you get a "thick" gromet, some of them are thin for stock-type valve covers.
B.

 

People use JB Weld on intakes all the time. I really think it'll be ok. I didn't want the constant worry of some tiny screws backing out and ruining my engine.

 

It's a spray on gasket adhesive. It's not for sealing, just for holding the gaskets in place while you place the intake and put all the bolts in.

As to the epoxy, your concern is noted. I understand your point. I think it'll be ok though, but I'm no expert and I may be full of shit too. Worst case scenario is it doesn't work and I have to take the intake back off and have it welded. I'll only be out some time and intake manifold gaskets. The baffle is too large to fit through any holes (which is why I didn't want to use any screws) and will just sit in the valley. I imagine I'll know if the epoxy fails if oil starts getting into the carb or I get a lot of smoke in the exhaust.

For the record, your'e entirely right. Welding it would be the best way to do it.

 

If your not using a factory located fuel pump , weld a filler tube with vent cap to the fuel pump mounting plate.

 

Now there is an idea! thanks for sharing that.

 

For sure. I've got the stock fuel pump, but that's a great idea.

 

got any pics of yer installation?

 

Here's the pictures. Now nitpick and criticize all you can. Seriously. It'll only end up helping others.


PCV Valve with rubber grommet on top of the intake manifold...



The Bottom side of the intake manifold with the baffle in place...



Closeup of the baffle. The gap on either side is roughly 1/8" (I'm talking vetical gap, side to side is much less)...



Now for the finished product. Before, dull, ugly and boring...



After, a tiny bit more exciting. I think besides a little clean up and some small details here and there, I'm pretty much done under the hood. I will be doing something about those ugly headers, by the way. I painted the engine bay, firewall, inner fenders and under the hood. I got a different air cleaner, new carb, and some black heater hoses. And of course, the vette valve covers and old timey Edelbrock Torker intake manifold...

 

What's up with all those hoses and V12 Dizzy?? Would look better with breathers on the vavle covers.

 

I'm swapping that one for an even bigger distributer and I'll put a breather right in the "v" in "Corvette" on both sides. That should look awesome. I've been thinking about taking some sand paper to those valve covers too for some even awesomer patina. Or maybe paint them? Pea soup or maybe snot green? What do you think?

 

you need an hei advance curve kit? I have a brand new one I can't even give away! Tell Bloody I'll send it with those banger spark plugs I promised him.

 

Um for reference, Bloody's name has been change to Boobie. He will only be know by that form now on.

Terd, Engine bay looks much better, I am digging it for real. Now we just need to section that SOB.

 

How about Bloody Boobie?

 

That's disgusting Kenny.

 

What's wrong with you?



BloodyBoobie

 

Don't trust this SOB. He promised them to me 4 years ago!


BloodyKnuckles

 

Use JB Weld.

Good to 500* F.

Never had a problem with it on steel or aluminum.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

 

Here's a slightly different way to do it.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251619

 

I got the timing set and it runs really well. I lost a little low end but gained a bunch of midrange. The pcv is working just like it should. There's no smoke from the exhaust, and no oil from the breather cap on the filler tube. The only downside is I've got an oil leak at the distributer now. A new seal should fix that up and I'll be as good as new. But with an awesomer engine.

I'll have to keep an eye on everything, but all in all, I'd say that this has been successful elective surgery. Not much cash outlay from the free valve covers and a smokin' good deal on intake from a hamb'er and a little elbow grease. A massive improvement for the effort involved. Now to do something about those ugly headers.

Thanks everybody for the suggestions. I'll let you all know how this is working as time goes on.

 

I'm glad to here you got it running good. It was a pain in the ass but well worth it.

Have fun!



BloodyBoobies

 

My PCV is located in the oil fill cap.I have a breather in each valve cover and it is simple and works good. The fill cap is a PCV cap from another set of valve covers I had.

 

Dredging this up fom the past to see how well this PCV worked long term? I'd like to do the same, but looking for some real world experience.

Thanks,

Neal