Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

I couldn't either...I would just mark the wheel and tire and see if it's slipping on the rim first.

 

Kip - it does slip. Maybe 2 or 3 inches at each race. 1/4" a pass maybe. As long as it won't pop off the rim I don't mind. There aren't any tubes.

 

From the pictures I took (can't post the full photos right now because I was shooting for a magazine coverage) I noticed the tire wadding up quite a bit, but unloading after the initial shock and then wadding up even more. The front tires are in the air for each photo in the sequence (aside from the first photo, which is a static shot).

 

If you go on YouTube and search Skull Garage they have a video already loaded from Knoxville

 

Holy Tommy not sure I wanted to know that's what they are doing. Good camera work there. Tommy Lumley has been telling me about the tire driving over itself. Where did I put those rim screws

 

Awesome tire shots there Tommy! Great info.

 

Love it

 

Anybody other than me having problems with their subscription to this thread dropping out? I have to hunt it up about once a week, and then I see there have been several posts that didn't trigger an email notification to me.
That's some fantastic shots of the tire wrinkle, you're getting some real bite! I can understand your reluctance to drill those rare wheels, but that looks kinda scary to me!

 

NOPE

 

Are the tires glued to the wheel? The fast radial guys like to use Indianhead gasket tack to hold the tires in place. Outside or drilling the wheels or adding beadlocks anyway

 

Not glued. I bet the radial guys are running more air too. I decided to drill them - not like I haven't cut up some rare stuff already

 

I have the same problem Dom sometimes I get a notification sometimes not.
Tony I'm not sure what I am seeing with your tyres
The tyre is gripping the road while the axle is over torquing the tyres causing the tyre wall to distort out of shape.

Increasing tyre pressure would allow the tyre to spin generating heat and increasing grip this in turn will reduce axle loading
And allow the engine rpm to move more rapidly into the power band and put the power were it needs to on the road
I know nothing about drag strip tyre pressure so look forward to being educated in this area!

 

DOM i have the same problem with all my subscribed threads too.

 

holy sheet.....my little tony is really working them tyres

 

No way I would drill rare real mags--more tire pressure will get you there
I have a nice perfect set 15x10 alum slots you can get and drill KEEP rare old real mags valuable--don't drill them!!!!!!

 

Those pics look pretty normal to me as far as the way slicks react. I don't think they'd look any different if the wheels were drilled. If it's unloading and losing grip after the launch it may be just a shock adjustment that's needed.

 

Yeah, I would have to agree. Drilling the wheels (if anything) is going to make the slicks wrinkle more because there won't be any chance of the tire slipping on the wheel. I don't mean to be a back seat crew chief, but I think I'd try a little more air pressure to keep the slick from wadding so badly. Only problem then, is with more air pressure, it may cause it to spin the tires when/if the rear suspension unloads. Then it would be time to play with the shock settings or do some tweaking on the ladder bars.

 

Dog, you may want to do some tire research, there are different side wall thickness, bracket racers use thicker wall for less windup, car moves sooner and in turn shorter reaction times.

 

I just wonder what they would look like at a higher RPM launch.

 

No disrespect to others giving opinions on that tire, but I personlly wouldn't do a thing to try and fix it before Quain chimes in with his opinion.

I'd be afraid of the bead breaking loose and instant deflation happening. Some early adapters of tubeless mountain bike tires had that problem when they got greedy shooting for the lowest tire pressure possible. They'd "burp" the tire and find themselves on their asses. Don't want to imagine that happening in a car at speed or off the line.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ X2

 

I lean towards the thinking long and hard about drilling those wheels. Maybe try some other wheels and play with pressures, drilling, and other settings. Once it sorted and hookin' right, see what the walls are doing. Then you could possibly go back to these wheels. I just hate to those wheels get drilled.

 

Ok no drilling. Lot of trouble anyway. I spoke to Quain and he said more air will make this worse. Main problem is I'm not dumping the clutch and stomping the gas. He says a little tire spin is ok and will help with this, but you gotta drop the hammer. Need to get Tyler to check on the secret parking lot and go do some practicing

The 75 lbs of steel bumper is not helping either. So today the plan is to go to Shawn's to use his aluminum spool gun and copy the bumper in aluminum. Its going to weigh 7 pounds and will look almost identical.



Oh yeah - Joe - I still have your mufflers - plan to bring those by soon.

 

I can't see any rim screws on these mags either.


As mentioned above, put a witness mark on the rim and the slick and keep an eye on it spinning on the rim.

 

what is the science behind tyre pressure and traction?
Good move on the bumper Tony

 

Tony Us Brits have stick shifts as standard automatics are an option.
With the clutch fully depressed slip your foot of the side of the clutch pedal at the same time banging down the throttle.

 

Tony, that weight you are eliminating..........Is there a weight limit for the "classes" you are running?
Any way to "relocate" that weight, as in over the axle, fwd. of the axle,or to the driver's seat/ cockpit area?

For tuning / experimental / data gathering purposes, mind you.........

 

I don't know yet - all my previous cars had Coker bias plys and spun like hell

Was thinking about that - if you look on youtube for White Trash or some of these guys when they film in-car that left foot is really working fast. If you side-step, you need to get back for the next shift real quick. Knowing my luck instead of missing shifts I would start missing clutch pedals

Chuck - there is a weight limit per cube and I'm well over it - maybe 300lbs over. This plus one more round of floor pan trimming should cut 100 lbs. Running out of places to cut weight now though. Those doors are sure heavy, think Delta could make up some aluminum copies of the doors?

 

Where are y'all heading next?

 

I'm in the same boat . . . if you try to sneak into going fast it won't work . . . have to just setup the car like it's going to run the best ET it can right from the start.

So wait, tomorrow?