This might save someone else from wasting a lot of money on the 200r4 trans like I did. I bought a 200 for $100 and took it to a trans shop to be checked out. I'm not a performance guy so I don't need a racing trans, my roadster had a turbo 400 in the car and I wanted OD. The 200's fit right in the same spot except the driveshaft yoke has to be changed. That all went well, easy change over, I did buy bowtie overdrives Rochester 2G carb kit to work the TV cable and their fourth gear lockup kit. My original 200 turned out to be junk so the trans guy sold me another one for $150 and he rebuilt it. Now I have everything installed, going down the road happy as a lark, everything was working perfect, I loved the set-up. About 3000 miles and as I come up to a stop sign and stop, the car wouldn't go forward anymore. I pulled it out of overdrive and it went into first gear and worked. Down the road I tried overdrive and it worked but when I got to my destination, I didn't have reverse. I made it back home, took the roadster to the trans shop, he drove it and wasn't sure what was wrong so he told me to go home and pull the pan. If there was metal in the pan, then go ahead and pull the trans. I did and it had some metal chips in the pan, when the trans guy pulled the trans apart, he told me that the OD sprag had broke and the reason was because the 200 has to come out of lock out whenever you let off the throttle. The lock up needs a computer and throttle sensor to work so it doesn't break the fragile OD sprag. Now that little tid bit of information about a computer and throttle sensor would have saved me a ton of money. I think what I'm going to do is fix the 200 and run without the lockup feature and I should be able to get by without cooking the trans since I put a 15K BTU trans cooler on the car in front of the radiator. If it doesn't work, I'll only be out a little more money. So beware of the 200 for this reason. Its a shame as I like the size and the gear spread in a light car as my roadster is. Good Luck and I hope this helps someone.
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I appreciate your sharing for guys like myself don't have to learn the hard way. I have a 200 on the shelf for a future project.
Like the Moose said They were built long before pulse width modulation was invented they are either on or off. No sensor or computer required.
Have run em x country many times in my 32's and 34's never a problem. I think yer problem is your tranny guy.
What he said...they don't burn out without lockup , ran one years ago in a my 36 Buick , , loved it....700r4 surely will..
Nothing wrong with a 200R4 when properly built and set up. Ran one trouble free for years behind my blown six. You need a better tranny guy.
I am lucky enough to have a friend who is a GM tranny guy ,does the "new tech" with old cars a lot , on his advice the 200 4r would be my trans of choice should I go with an automatic .
Been running a 200R4 for years in my 55 Chevy wagon. Lock up works fine with a kit. Been in there so long I forgot what it has.
It is a 2004 R ..technically speaking , first of all. If you switch the l/u solenoid on with 4th gear pressure, as soon as you slow to stop, it downshifts and unlocks the converter. If that's not enough, the feed wire should run through a n/o brake pedal switch that is held closed by the pressure against it, similar to what's used in cruise controls. No (good) reason to not have the l/u released when coming to a stop. The 2004R is a great trans for your application. The builder is a little suspect..That's all.
Well, I'm overwhelmed by all the response and I'm happy to hear that everyone thinks that I need a new tranny guy as I think that I do also. I really believe the 200 is a good tranny also, I just have to find the guy who will set it up right. On themoose drawing, what is the L/O switch? Is the drawing of the inside of the trans or the outside, I'm a little confused there? Actually I may have it wired wrong. I have power hooked to the trans through a brake pedal switch and with bowtie overdrives fourth gear switch receiving the power, I thought that was all that is needed. The trans guy installed the b/t fourth gear switch and like I said, it worked great for 3K miles. The trans would not lockup until I got to a cruise speed and when I eased off the throttle, then the lock up would engage smoothly. When I would push the accelerator down a little, like on a grade or speeding up a little, the lockup would slowly unlock until I found where I wanted to cruise at and when I eased up on the throttle again, the lockup would engage slowly. I may have to dig out the paperwork on the b/t switch. I can't thank all you guys enough for giving out helpful information. I want to keep this tranny one way or another, you 200 satisfied guys have spurred me on. The big objective for me is to find the right transmission guy or trans rebuilding outfit. Thanks all
anyone know, off hand what the gear ratio's are in the 200R4? Building a '67 Camaro for my wife. Been thinking about one of those. Have a 4L60E but can get a 200R4 out of a '86 Monte Carlo SS. Opinions?
The 200-R4 has a first-gear ratio of 2.74:1, a second-gear ratio of 1.57:1 and a third-gear ratio of 1:1. It has a fourth-gear ratio of .67:1 and a reverse gear ratio of 2.07:1. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/facts_7693976_specs-200r4-transmission.html
Well markyac it is an easy and common mistake to make considering the more popular 700R4 is mentioned more often. I just don't worry about it since most people probably figure out which one you are talking about soon enough. Alphebet soup,here is a nice little gear ratio chart I found awhile back .