Thinking about using this kit and wondered if any of you have, and if you would recommend it? Want to drop the rear of 37 sedan as much as possible without having to C notch or use lowering blocks. Ease of installation? (body on) Ride Quality? Do shock mounts need to be welded on? Was going to go with Weedetr but he only has rev eye springs now and won't have reg springs for quite awhile. Think it may be too low and need to C notch. Anybody use TCI1935 - 1940 Ford Car Rear Parabolic Leaf Spring Suspension Kit They claim it will lower rear 4" without blocks. This kit is mounted under the frame rail like the Chassis Engineering kit so I am little skeptical about not having to use lowering blocks?
I'm using that kit on my '40 pickup. As you can see, it sits pretty high. Granted, a pickup is probably lighter in the rear than a coupe, but I think its close to a stock height. I'm currently in the process of re-arching the springs. The truck, in the pic, is on jack stands under the axle.
So wait a minute! I am looking at the Posie's bolt on kit and this is what their catalog says: "8040B 1935-40 Ford Bolt-in Stock Frames 2 Position Ride Height 8040W 1935-40 Ford Weld-in Boxed Frames 2 Position Ride Height 8048B 1942-48 Ford Bolt-in 4 Position Ride Height Note: Kits are designed as bolt-in kits for ease of installation. As with all suspension components, the frame brackets must be welded for final assembly before driving vehicle." Does that mean it is NOT a bolt on kit? Is the process of drilling out the rivets and holes and bolting it in only for alignment purposes and essentially the whole thing needs to be welded or it is not safe to drive?
• BOLT-IN INSTALLATION • 2 OR 4 POSITION ADJUSTABLE RIDE HEIGHT • SUPER LOW, SUPER RIDE! Part # Description 8040B 1935-40 Ford Bolt-in Stock Frames 2 Position Ride Height 8040W 1935-40 Ford Weld-in Boxed Frames 2 Position Ride Height 8048B 1942-48 Ford Bolt-in 4 Position Ride Height Note: Kits are designed as bolt-in kits for ease of installation. As with all suspension components, the frame brackets must be welded for final assembly before driving vehicle.
Mine is all bolt in. No welding. You will have to drill some extra holes into the frame. The brackets use existing frame holes for alignment.
I have used all three and all are easy to install. TCI has the new parabolic rear springs which allow for a smoother ride. If you put the rear mount through the frame and not below it you won't require lowering blocks. I used the stock TCI rear bracket on this car which requires 3" lowering blocks to set properly. If you discard the bracket, run a tube through the frame you won't need lowering blocks. SAC used to sell this set up. The shock mounts simply bolt on the stock crossmember.
Used Posie's on my 38 coupe - worked great. Shocks bolt on but I removed the stock X member and replaced with 2" boxed tube for extra clearance.
I used Chassis engineering. It`s about $540. Everything bolts in and rides well. Comes completed with shocks, brackets, and springs. I have them on a few of my cars.
A bit of advice. Buy the kit at a major show and get free shipping. Normal shipping can run over $150 so it`s a pretty good savings. Bill
I used a Chassis Eng. setup on the 36 Ford I used to have. It fit great rode great. Was a breeze to install. No blocks set just fine. Did tack weld the brackets just for a good measure. Bought it from a Alliance vendor back then and got free shipping on all my parts.
Installed a CE kit on my '35 and it sat sorta high to me, couple inches higher than my kid's stock height '36. Made some 3-1/4" blocks and got it down a little, may have to adjust the height as the springs settle. Biggest hassle is the amount of wedge needed to get the pinion angle right. Had the same lowering block and pinion angle deal with the CE kit in my '47. Next time, I will cut the original spring saddles off and use new ones; but that kinda messes with the idea of a "bolt-on" kit.
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