I bought this 30 roadster on what looks like an original style frame which is not level under the body. I have not worked on a roadster before and I am having problems to get the doors to shut. I am also trying to work on getting the floor to fit down over the frame. I have included a few pictures and who really appreciate any advice on what you are seeing. I know experienced builders would have this figured out very quickly----before this car---it was always 35 to 40 fords----thanks alot----ron
Model A body sat on a flat center section. 32 is swaybacked in the middle. Years ago, a wood strip was shaped to fill the gap that could be seen from the sides of car. Some guys today, use what is called a "mini channel" at the very front of the cowl. It is a slight cut of the very front of the subrails, to let the cowl front sit down a bit over the frame, to make that gap not visible along the sides under doors, etc. You'd still need to make wood shims to sit on top of frame rails, where each body bolt is. Not a big problem. If someone does not have a hamb link, try searching "Model A mini channel".
Frame rails look like 1932or something other than A. The bottom of the body is near flat and the 32 rails dip down in the middle the center mounting bolt is pulling the center of the body down and closing the top of the door opening. Buy the tardel book it will help a lot
Sorry guys--the frame is a 32 but it is not flat and I assume it is styled like an original frame. Lucky me----I own the tardel book and will use it as a resource.
Looks like you're gaining ground fitting the sub frame-Model A frames are flat on top-- the "hump" in the later frames makes it necessary to do what you've already figured out, remove part of the stock sub frame inside the wheel wells and re build it to conform to the curve. They actually have a pre-fabbed rear sub frame section to do this ( probably for mucho bucks). The doors are a pain in all Model A's, the roadster doors are the worst because the body is pretty flimsy to begin with. There are a number of things that help- the package tray that runs under the top rear edge of the "cockpit" ( bolts through the body and wood strip for the top), also the wood kit that goes behind the seat ( uprights) and is tied to an angled brace on either side to the back of the door opening.( From closing the doors with too much force, most original roadster bodies get stress cracks right behind the doors near the top iron mounts).--- When all that's in place, the doors can be adjusted by shimming the mounting points (sub frame to frame) at the cowel and just behind the doors. From your pictures , it looks like the cowel is cocked; front is too high/ back too low-and you need to shim under the rear of the cowel, and pull the front down which will make the strike side of the door come up. It doesn't take much- experiment with different thickness shims and clamps till you "fine tune " it. Once you have the body lined up , you'll have to get the latches and catches to line up. There is some adjustment in the catches, and if they're aftermarket, I've had to re-shape the leading edge of the catch to make them work. All very time consuming and sometimes frustrating, but take your time. Pain in the ass, but they're neat cars. Good luck with it. Mike
Afterthought- make sure the hinge screws are tight and the pins are snug. You can get oversize pins if they're sloppy. Every little bit helps; fit and finish on these cars was rough at best, they all need tweaking.