Hot Rods Does Rattle Can Spray Can Paint Suck...or is it just me???

!!!!DANG!!!! After lurking all this time I knew HAMB was the place to post my question…

>Don't scrape it with your fingernail for at least 2 weeks.

TWO WEEKS!!!! Wow…that is a long time for paint to cure


A boner says>Sounds like you followed directions

Yes…that is the problem.


>did you allow enough time for primer to dry before top coat? It might help to let primer really dry good, and then scuff up the primer to give it good key for the top coat.


No, I thought it was a good thing to apply the paint on top of the primer while the primer was still tacky so as to make the bond better. Was this my fatal flaw in my process???


john worden says>This plus use wax and grease remover instead of lacquer thinner and then a fast evaporating cleaner such as PPG DX 330 prior to primer.

I have historically just used lacquer thinner…strike two in my process.


325w says>'ve used the gear clamp clamping the can to the saws all blade.


Sounds like fun. I’ve been attaching my rattle cans to a chain saw blade with less than desirable results?!?!?!


Slammed said something however I cannot seem to get past the avatar…BTW nice tattoo


Fortynut says> …lots of good stuff…then…epoxy paints in a spray can are a different story, for another day.


I mostly spray engine enamel and that was my frustration yesterday. Does engine enamel (not talking about the super high heat stuff that is good up to 2000 F) need to be baked on? I have been using it for chassis parts in addition to the various engine brackets.


Lothiandon1940 says>Lots of great suggestions guys, but I really think that they've been forced by the EPA to change something in the paint formulas for spray cans over the years. I cannot in any way substantiate that theory but something seems to have changed.

I agree…in the past I do not remember this issue and that is what sparked my question. Also…does it matter what state you buy the paint. Here in California perhaps all we can get is water color based, free range, locally produced, soy paint.


>oldcarguygazok says>You know what really sucks!your half way through the can when it shits itself.

It is not supposed to do that???


>theHIGHLANDER says> etch prime, wait 30min, paint. Thickness should be kept to an absolute minimum.

OK…so what is “etch” primer? Where can I find it in spray can form? I have been trying to use the same manufacturer for the primer and top coat so that the paint will not negatively react. Also is etch primer heat tolerant?


reyn says>I bought an old stove for 5 dollars about 20 years ago and have it in the garage. As soon as the last coat of paint is on , set or hang them in the oven for a half hour at 275 degrees. … I built an extension on the stove and can get double the size pieces in.

Let me know when you are going on vacation and I will swing by and appropriate your oven…got any pictures of it???


Blasted says>When you blast metal it brings up the felt. It looks like micro steel wool. If you lightly sand it you will see it disappear quickly. Never paint nonsanded metal if it has been blasted. Even welding on fresh blasted metal will cause a green glow. That is the felt burning off.

Good stuff…I kinda thought that rough-ish texture was a good thing for the paint to adhere to. BTW…kinda ironic your user name is “blasted”…was “sanded” already taken???


Primeisnotacrime says>Especially in CA with the C.A.R.B. regulations. I'm surprised they even allow the use of over the counter spray paint. I'm sure if there was Krylon in a water based form, that would be the only paint allowed.

When I bought the cans I asked for spray can paint that “sticks well to freeway overpasses, street signs, and railroad cars”. The girls (with no expression on her face) reads the back of the can and says “yes this should work”. Welcome to California.

Thanks Ya'All!!!

 

Krylon appliance epoxy..so good..

 

No one mentioned the obvious. It is unhealthy and illegal to suck spray paint! So stop sucking your Krylon, Duplicolor, and Rustoleum. And trim your finger nails and stop scratching your ass and freshely painted surfaces.
I am not a doctor. but play one on the HAMB sometimes!

 

Rattle Can Paint is for Rattle Rods

 

I use rustoleum and I sun cure them for a week or so. It seems to me like direct sun light makes the paint dry better. I can't prove this but if I try the scratch test it doesn't seem to happen when they sit in the sun.

 

Hey, I painted the dashes on all my cars with Krylon years ago.
I think that's the clue. It was years ago when the paint was marked that it dries in a few minutes.

 

But what it's not is what it used to be.

 

Sanded, lol, good one. You do want a veined or sanded rough surface. Thing is with blasting, when you see how easy the felt comes off after blasting, you will wonder how anything could stick to the metal.

 

BEST rattle-can paint I've ever used was Eastwood's BRAKE SPRAY. Wire-brush the part clean, blast with brake cleaner and shoot. GREAT coverage with light coats, and DRY to handle in 10-15 minutes! One can goes a LONG WAY - master cylinder, altenator, bell housing, license plate frames, lots of hardware. VERY NICE 'soft aluminum' finish, will withstand heat to 400 degrees.

Dupli-Color engine paint SUCKS in hot weather. Used theit primer, still took 2 cans to get even coverage - dries too fast to flow decent, fought 'tiger stripes' on a 289. Their touch-up paint worked well with their primer on the valve covers and air cleaner - FORD GOLD. The paint is a LAQUER BASE and will turn enamel into a bubble-gum mess on accessory parts (fan, pulleys, ect.).

Got SNAKEBIT with Rustoleum's SEMI-GLOSS BLACK, had TWO different shades going on in the engine bay ('65 Mustang). Learned to watch for lot #'s on the bottom of the cans and buy MORE than you think you need! I should have used their SATIN BLACK, never an issue with that color. LOVE Rustoleum for 5-bucks a can, but you can't rush the dry time!

I'm so IMPRESSED with Eastwood's product, I'm going to spend extra for their CHASSIS BLACK for my next project!

My .02... -Tim

 

I don't know where 'Slammed' gets his avatar photos but every time I see it I want to rattle that can.

 

That's why I bought a spray gun and use automotive quality paint and primers . It also helps that you take the time to read and learn the proper way to mix , apply and finish whatever material that you're using . I don't have any of the problems associated with this topic . Good luck .

 

It's you.

 

Every time I see tfeverfreds' avatar I want to rattle both those "cans".

 

I've never noticed tfeverfreds' avatar before!But now I get the point!

 

id much rather use a spray gun but a air compressor and all the stuff needed to paint is not in the budget right now.

I have seen some really bad paintjobs done with proper equipment as well m daily driver was painted in a barn with a spray gun and automotive paint its nothing but orange peel and even has a few runs. I painted from the rockers up about 6" with gloss black dupli-color(its a automotive paint as well) not a single bit of orange peel only imperfection is where my body work was done when I had a broken hand.

at the end of the day its all about prep and technique

 

I just toss off....

 

Apparently the stuff still works well for this guy.

 

Go back and read the 'beaner's post.

 

My neighbor just painted a car with PLASTI DIP. Anyone here use this stuff??

 

IT SUCKS! But I say that because I invested in an 80 gallon compressor ,good spray guns and learned how to paint.Im no expert but ive learned from my mistakes and can make it look good if I get runs.

 

Ain't that the plastic stuff you dip tool handles in? Be good protection for parking at Wal_Mart.

 

A neighbor painted his home built airplane with the Plasti-Dip stuff. It looks good, but he hasn't flown the plane yet. Hoping it doesn't peel off in flight.

 

Paints of used a thousand time now seem to run easily and it's difficult to get a wet coat on vertical parts. That means you have to fog it and you don't get a good shine. Thank the F'n EPA!

I used to buy little cans of liquid electrical tape. Good stuff. Can't buy it in MD anymore. I can only get the runny not so good stuff. Water based I assume. The local Fastenall guy said he can sell it to me if I give him a West Virginia job address.

There can't be anymore "greenhouse" gas in that little can than would be emitted with a good fart. I propose that all EPA employees be required to wear BUTT PLUGS securely loctited in place and breath through a catalytic converter at all times to cut CO2 emissions.

 

Yeah it sucks. you can't do anything with it.

 

Krylon uses the same formula as Rustolemn. Took 5 1/2 cans of the old Krylon to paint the coupe.
< --- that one.

 

When I still used rattle cans, I would rest the can on my shop lamp, not the bulb, but the cover, two cans rested well, shake the chit out of them place on the lamp, finish prep and spray away, the heat made the propellent leave the can real fast, covered well to. I was surprised the rattle can marble collecting only came up once?
I got tired of rattle cans and bought a compressor.

 

I painted the hood on my 34 with rattle can paint that I got from all places, Walmart. I took samples of the paint color down to an automotive paint store and had them mix me up a couple of rattle cans of the color. I think it was something like $13 a can. That didn't go to far so I went to Walmart and took my paint chips with me. Their cheap stuff matched perfectly. After primer I sprayed the crap out of the hood put it on thick and it orange peeled pretty bad. I than cut and buffed it out and it came out better than I could have imagined. That has been about 5 years ago and it's still holding up very well

 

it's you

 

I don't have anything to add here except thanks for all the great tips and info. Excellent read!