Hot Rods 1934 Ford Roadster Project

HEY PEW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope you're on Craigs today !! Package deal, 17 k

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/4774974311.html

Courtesy of 31'Frankenstein HAMB'er

 

Well...did you get them?

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

lol....yeah what's up Pew ! ? It's been twenty minutes already ! haha

 

Awesome! Cannot wait to see what you do!

 

Men, the Cabriolet is not a roadster and I am not a 32 roadster guy. You would need to go look at them as the price is really low. Thanks, I look at Craigslist every evening my self. One will turn up.

 

Damn it sir ! So a hack saw does not a roadster maketh..........ye seek one only born as such......an uncircumcised piece of Henry metal.....that does not need hacketh. Got it.

I should have known your high standards. It's amazing that one can still find an original roadster, I definitely admire your tenacity. Just thought of this thread today. Perhaps it was workable. Good enough to know it's not. I look forward to where your hunt goes. You'll have another good one.....for sure.

 

I'll be watching this one...looking forward to the acquisition and build!

 

[QUOabout a pheaton ="Pewsplace, post: 10677564, member: 27957"]Chris has ignited the fuel in my love for the model 40 roadster. I have owned two of them and let them get away thinking I should join Larry's Deuce club. I have owned 5 Deuce roadsters in my many years of building cars. I am now 74 and just don't feel comfortable driving one. I am of average size at 200 pounds and 6'1 but somehow I have a difficult time riding for more than a few miles in a Deuce. On the other hand, I can stretch out in a model 40 (33/4) and drive to San Francisco with a great deal more confidence that I will be able to get out of the car once I arrive at my destination. With this in mind, I have started another 33 project and will be posting photos in a couple of weeks of my progress (I work slow). The build plan is as follows:

Body: SAR or Wescott depending on what I locate
Chassis: ASC rails with owner fabrication of remaining cross members
Front Suspension: CE axle with hairpins
Rear Suspension: Winters QC with coil overs or spring (ride conscious as opposed to looks)
P&J ladder bars
Engine: SBC 327/350
Transmission: 700r4 (can't shift a manual)
Brakes: JHRS Front, Buick drums Rear
Wheels and Tires: 16" & 17" Excelsior with matching steelies (Wheelsmith)

I am building my preferences in hot rods without using iron clad rules for building a traditional car. I like the early look but need the modern items for dependability and availability. I am open to changes if anyone has a better approach to my overall plan. A real Henry roadster is out of the question as I have looked for over two years for one I could afford. They do not come up for sale frequently and when they do, they need a lot of work. The full wood interior is somewhat fragile and costly to replace. I have used Wescott on my last two roadsters and liked them, but since this will be my Swan Song, I would like a SAR body to start with.

I do follow most 33/4 builds on the HAMB and have learned that we have a lot of talent that can help me when I get in trouble. I appreciate all of the assistance and advice I have received in the past and look forward to your comments on this build.
Stay Tooned!
Pewsplace.Com[/QUOTE]
How about a pheaton

 

If you are building a model 40 roadster and need a body this looks like a great deal
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1933-34-roadster-body.923073/

 

Thanks, I do know about that one but I have been working away on the chassis with the hopes of locating a SAR one that is sitting in a garage close by. I will try to post some photos soon of my project. I lost focus for awhile and started a Deuce roadster but now that is down the road.

 

How about a pheaton it's better than a roadster were you can bring your friends that lost focus on their own project ; )

 

John how come you have all the cool stuff??

 

Look who's calling the kettle black ; ) I just want a bitchen roadster like yours. Makes me want to cut the ass end of the pheaton off.........oh s
I look forward to Mr Pews build

 

I finally got back on track and offed the Deuce project. I picked up a set of ASC rails and CE crossmember for a start. Locating a nice original chassis without major pitting or damage is hard to do - even in California. I hope to get started and will keep my post up to date showing progress. Cut me some slack as I am 74….Chris is a youngster. Stay Tooned!
Lynn

The ASC rails were never used and just sat in the garage for a long spell.

The CE X- Member was still in the package it came in via UPS.
I will be using a stock front and rear crossmember as soon as I find some nice ones. I might do another QC rather than the 9 " depending on what I can find. The body still has escaped my hunt Wescott, SAR or Ford.

 

Dang Lynn, you have a tire store?

 

I am moving along but my delivery has been acting up so I have been slowed down for a couple of days. I have the frame rails in the jig and need to finish the uprights. I should have more done by this weekend. I am still leaning toward the Winters QC but for now I have a 57 SW rear set up with a stock spring. Do I really need that QC?
Stay Tooned!


The ASC rails are very nice and fit the jig perfectly. I had to spread the center rails out to meet the dimensions for the mounting holes and outside rails. I will make the side braces for each body hole next.

I am unsure what rear end to use at this moment (QC maybe) but I have the 9 inch all set up to use with a stock rear crossmember and 34 spring.

I used the P&J (Eastwood style) rear hangers and tacked them in place for now.


The CE crossmember will not be used but I tried it and while for a 32 it could be used with some modifications. I am leaning toward an Ionia X-member kit.

 

I have been working on the chassis and gathering parts. I still need a stock front crossmember to complete the chassis perimeter.

The original gas tank dropped right in the holes in the ASC rails. That is a good sign.

I have all the frame outside dimensions matched to the Wescott drawing. They were not easy to pull in but I finally accomplished the task.

Those CE plates will be modified once I start the engine/trans installation. I think some holes would me nice.


Dave brought over his 34 Walker radiator from 1982 with 200,000 miles of usage with no problems. It should work fine in the garage for a mock up during this build.

My friend Thom Taylor did a drawing many years ago that I kept in my files. I will follow this style except will add a rear gas tank.

 

Awesome job

 

Nice to see some progress, I like the rendering.
Eric

 

Hey Pew looking good so far! My $.02 - on 32-34's, if you have a gas tank out back, don't bother with the QC. Can't see them well enough to warrant the $$. My 32 has no tank so I have a QC.
Wish a had a 33-34 roadster instead!

 

I agree with you on the tank and QC but I am hoping to put one together that I have had for years — so the expense part is not a factor.

Here is my last one with the Champ and rear tank. Eye candy more than anything but it is what I grew up with.

 

You know you have to have a Quickchange

 

I sure hope that one day I'll be following you driving this car , and that my view will include that QC that you've been storing in the garage . Good luck with your project .

 

Here is the work accomplished this weekend. I have never drilled bones previously so it was a challenge but went well using a hole saw and drill press.
I have also decided to go with the QC rear end as that is what I really like in a roadster. I have located the remaining parts and will be showing you the photos next week. I also located a NOS Champ…… Slow but steady.


This 34 bone was in bad shape and still need lots of work but had pit free metal so I decided to use it as a test mule.


The holes came out nice and I tried a sleeve in the last hole to see how it would look. I will have to select a thinner wall sleeve to use in the front larger holes. I used 2 - 1" holes and 6 - 7/8" holes on 3" centers. Lots of work so far and they still require some straightening. The other side is excellent.

I just found this NOS unit in TN that would be perfect and save me a lots of $$$. It is aluminum with a spool which I would replace with a differential….Stay Tooned!

 

Update on the chassis. I have added a new rear QC crossmember and installed the new front crossmember. I am working at a snails pace due to some back problems so — Stay Tooned!

I added extensions to the P&J front crossmember so it would fit inside the frame rails rather than butt weld.

This photo shows how snug the crossmember fits in the ASC rails. I will weld the complete unit inside then box the outside for a clean look.

The unit lowers the front an additional inch over the stock crossmember. The radiator mounts will need some work to fit better but that will be easy.

The rear crossmember is now for a Winters QC and the 9" is for my next 32 project. I made it out of 2x3x3/16 wall crs and just tacked it together for now.

Lots of clearance for the gas tank and the Winters is narrower so the tank can remain stock. I gave in on the Model-A spring as my old back could not take the ride characteristics of the buggy spring. Don't tell anyone about the coil overs.

 

OK Lynn that will just be our little secret.
Nice work.

 

Great thread. Love those Model 40s.

 

Looking great any updates ​

 

Looks good Lynn!

 

I am finally back working on the 34 roadster chassis. I made all the boxing plates and need to start welding them in place. I purchased the ASC rails without side holes but I do need the measurements for the front inner fender panels so I can drill the holes and weld nuts on the inside. Does anyone have some good measurements to go by? Wescott or ASC does not list the dimensions for installing the aprons. I don't want to fold them over as I like the bolts showing. If someone could measure their original chassis starting from the rear fender brace hole I would appreciate it. I don't have any inner fender panels to use as a guide. Thanks.


The rear fender brace hole is also the center of the front axle and a good reference point. I need to have the measurements from this hole reward for the 5 inner fender panel holes. Distance from top and spacing is required.