Here are the holes I fixed on each side. I plugged the tailgate holes and added hidden latches from Mar-K. I also filled the stake pockets. During all of this, the motor on my air compressor caught fire..................
TCP Global Hot Rod Flatz. I bought it on the Amazon. There is a youtube video of a guy spraying it in a converted garage. His gun setup is completely wrong and he is shooting the wrong reducer at the wrong temperature. Watch it and have a laugh, it won't be hard to find. I sprayed it at the correct temp for the fast reducer that was shipped. It flashed out most excellent and I couldn't make the product run. Not a single run. I bought a second gallon because of past experience, but I don't think I am going to need it. I have plenty left to do the hood, and maybe enough for the wheels on the first gallon..
Just drove to Victorville CA and back. First Holley mechanical fuel pump failed at Wileys Well Rd on I10. Second one started to go bad within 50 miles and failed on the trip back.......at the same road....both days at 105 degrees F. Believe me I am going to bend some ears at Holley Monday AM. This is the 12-834 Holley 80gph street pump. I MacGyvered in a Holley Blue pump and regulator and the rest of the trip was effortless. AC worked perfect. I lost a lower shock mount bolt in the right front, the long bolt.
More on the fuel pump. When I switched it out for electric, I went to pull out the fuel pump pushrod before putting on a solid block off plate. The rod was mushroomed and would not come out of the block. There was probably not a thing wrong with the fuel pumps. I googled up the issue, and I find it is somewhat common. I have great oil pressure, and no cam/lifter issues at all. I use ZDDP too. Recently I rode on the AAA flatbed again. I had some sluggish starter operation and had just installed a new battery. I drove to the local fish fry and went to leave. Slow cranking again and no fire. Voltage was dropping from 12.5 to 9.8 during cranking, not leaving enough for the ignition. As it turns out the starter was beginning to short and finished doing so at the fish fry. It would still crank slowly, but was quickly too hot to touch. It remained that hot for over an hour. Luckily I had a new starter on the shelf and got it running the next morning. No cranking at all, just a click, vroom! I guess the starter had been going bad for a while. I just took it to Laughlin and back this past weekend. No issues at all! I changed the front tires from 215/70-15 to 195/70-15 for additional front fender clearance.
Glad to see that PPE during painting! Quite a resurrection on the truck. An AD Chev and a Bonus Built Ford, what's next? A Pilot House Dodge?!
Next is a refresh on the wife's Model A. It has a 700R4 and still has 3.00:1 gears in the 9 inch. It is a bit tall, but the light car makes it liveable. I am switching it out for a set of 3.70:1 gears with an Eaton Truetrac. I gutted the car and will change the dash, shifter, and coat the insides with Lizzardskin ceramic sound deadener. The back door needs a flange and weatherstripping, and then a fresh coat in a different color. After that is a 65 C-10 that was my Uncle's. It will have a fatman front, 4 link rear, and a Nascar small block with a Super T-10 4 speed.
Another update. I had a loud clunk that seemed to be coming from the left front somewhere, when the suspension unloaded on a bump. Loud as in broken weld, something gonna fall off loud. I hunted for the source for weeks. Finally I had my brother come over and jump up and down on the truck. It was still extremely hard to pinpoint, but after adding grease to the lower front ball joint for the third time, it stopped completely. A lube dealer told me once that filling up the joints until the boot swells was over lubricating. Apparently, not in this case................. Goodguys Scottsdale, here we come!
If a ball joint is clunking, that usually means theres too much wear. Perhaps the grease is dampening the noise. Give it a good inspection, for safety sake. Great looking truck!
The ball joint was brand new, and now less than 2500 miles and it is very tight. Update: changed the rear end from a loud 3.50 open to a 3.89 with a billet steel posi. The trans shifts much better and at the proper rpms. I also trashed the All American coil overs TCI sells. I had the truck weighed and put on the proper Ride Tech rebound damped coil overs in the back. It rides much better now.
Got any interior pictures? What kind of seat belts did you use? Where did you get your one piece windows for the doors?
I get seat belts from southern rods. They sell the same seat belts everyone does and have a huge selection, at a much more reasonable price. Interior is only Lizard Skin ceramic and some foil insulation. I don't even have carpet in it. JRD international was the glass source. They sell to a lot of vendors, but I am not sure if they sell direct. I bought from some vendor, and they did a poor job of scratching out the source of their parts. The glass actually fit without any mods, unlike the last set of glass I bought from a large named vendor. Seats came out of a Honda minivan that a local guy converts to wheel chair vans. He has a huge selection of leather, cloth, and several colors and a console if it will fit.
Well, you had to ask. I was concerned the HAMB has become much more strict about content, so I put this build thread on the 67-72 chevy trucks board: I used my Alliance discount to get the Fatman Fab parts from Gambino Customs. There are now a lot of players in the suspension game for these years of trucks which are becoming increasingly popular. Most had a lead time so long that I still wouldn't have my parts. Fatman delivers!
The Jalopy Journal
