Technical 1932 ford chassis + 1940 ford cross steering? can it be done?

A '32 I built in 2006 had a '40 box and column with cross steering. Front end was all '39. I put a u-joint in the shaft but the box real-estate is the real concern.



A detail of the box.

 

Here is how I did it

 

I picked up a 42 Merc Box the other night complete from wheel to pitman arm so thats what I'll be using. I'm not sure if I'll use a u joint in the shaft yet or not I would prefer not to.

This is a good picture, really shows everything tucked in tight.

 

Here's one I'm working on.
'40 box on pinched 32 rails for a '31 coupe. Head clearance was very tight due to the pinched frame...but it cleared.

The second pic is of a fellow HAMBer "32 barn car" It was built like that back in the day and he said it handled great.

 

Couple more of @Roadsir 's set up.

 

Jeff,
If it's a wagon we'll need to get you some measurements and I know where the wells and floor pan can be had.

 

If running with the steering box located well back and the drag link at an angle, make sure you don't have a possibility of the steering going "over center" on full rh lock. (assuming lhd). Proper steering stops would need to limit movement before the drag link and steering arms get into a straight line situation.

The other problem with using cross steer in a narrower chassis is the clearance between the cylinder head and the steering column mast. I had 39 cross steer in a 34 coupe and managed to juggle everything into position. It would not have fitted with bigger aftermarket heads on the flatty, though.

It's a juggling game, an inch movement fore or aft can make the difference between it fitting and not fitting. On my 34 I set the box into the rail a little bit and scalloped the mast to clear a head nut.

The steering on that car was very good. Cross steer is a good way to go if you can fit it in.

Mart.

 

I used a complete 39 box and column in my 33 pickup. Slotted the holes in an original 39/40 box mounting bracket. I ran a flathead and altered a pair of tube headers to clear. Steered like power steering!

 

That's interesting. I have always thought that the drag link should be parallel and close to the tie rod.

 

I've got a '41 - '48 box in my roadster. It's RHD, but it's no different to what you guys could do just back to front.

The box is right forward near the front crossmember, and the steering shaft comes out of the box completely horizontal. I've got a '41 - '48 column in the car, with a mounting plate welded at the bottom and it bolts to the bottom of the cowl / toeboard.

As we have to have collapsible steering in Queensland here by the rules, i'll run a double d shaft between the box and the column, with two uni joints. Pretty lame but it's sorta the only way we can get around it.

Edit: I also have '41 - '48 spindles, and the steering arms have been heated and dropped to get the tie rod under the wishbone.

 

Hope so, but I have a choice 40 cross steer or F100 side steer. 29 Sport Coupe with a
59A flathead and 3 on the knee.

 

Do you have any pictures of your set up?

 

Here's one of the interior side of things. It's all still mostly mocked up and everything needs some finishing to it.. but you get the drift.



I'll see if i can find an engine bay pic otherwise i'll go up and take one.

 

As you can see the steering box shaft is horizontal and the column end comes out of the cowl. I'll put a uni joint on both and a double d In between the two. This makes it collapsible as per our guidelines while still incorporating all early Ford parts which was my goal.

 

That s my car, my steering, it look wrong to many people, but I can tell that my car drive like a charm, no bump steer or any steering problems

 

1932 Ford frame with a 39 box. I turned down a piece of DD shaft to convert the original shaft to accept a u joint, which was necessary with this application as I want to run a full hood.