Technical Flathead/T5 racket – fool me once...

^^ That sounds like a possibility. Hopefully we get an update when it comes apart.

 

Well Kevin, I don't know what to say now that you relate that you actually did rotate the engine several turns before final installation of engine/trans assy and detected no hint of interference.
I'm wondering, do those finger weights on a Long type p. plate swing outboard further when engine is running, even at idle, than when being rotated by hand wuth a wrench on the crank? Been many years since I even held a Long type p. plate in my hands, much less installed it. Details are getting fuzzy, but I do remember that there used to be an adjustment screw on the tip of each of the 3 levers to contact TO brg.

 

Yeah, I agree, and that's what made the Auburn clutch so great. It had no centrifugal weights to interfere with high rpm shifting, yet it didn't slip and it was lightweight. Plus it bolted right up to same flywheel holes as stock Long, and it was extremely low profile like a diaphragm clutch of today.Very popular in oval track racing back then.
Would require a redrilling of the flywheel, but how about a diaphragm p. plate?

 

Unfortunately, I've come to realize that most aftermarket parts almost fit everything, but don't fit anything. Cheap parts are complete junk, expensive parts are much better but usually still need something to make it works right. I usually go for the middle of the road part. Most of the time they will stand up to what I need them to do but I don't mind making them fit as much as I do after spending a lot more for the "Good One".

 

Avoid Speedway I ordered some threaded bungs and DOM tubing from them the tubing threaded ends were angled 10 degree's a machinist I took them too didn't even know how it could be done with out a taper attachment on a lathe sent them back with a tracking number Speedway first said they never got them after 2 months they sent me a refund less stocking shipping etc.

 

Maybe a stupid question but why didnt you go with the 9" clutch? i just ordered the same setup except smaller clutch and pussure plate with the same hesitation regarding speedway. i havent got it together yet but from everything i read on here and the ford barn 9" is all you need on the flathead.

 

I'm just throwin' this out there.... my 5 dollar bet is on the clutch disk being cracked. Friend of mine went through this. Damn thing sounded like the trans was falling out of the car. 1st time he dropped the trans, he saw nothing wrong. 2nd time...... fractured clutch disk.
Guess I'm with Ozy..... but I'm not covering HIS bet.

 

This is the one time you can be thankful for not having a torque tube, as you take the heap of junk apart...
Also, the noise means that points of interference will be clearly visible.
You are, if I am following the right links, using an early Ford pressure plate and throwout sleeved to go on late trans. A thought is that the various Long clutches at speedway may not all be early Ford fingered...if your plate has later type fingers, the extra length may be getting into something on the full-sized throwout.
New Long plates from China do have a reputation of random finger adjustment and warped covers as well. Rebuilds of real ones can still be found.

 

This is the F1, right? Job should be about two days easier than on a '48 Ford. Hold up pan with an old phone book (perfect padding) on top of a '32 Ford jack.

 

hope folks read this and understand that when a company peddles shit parts they don't deserve our dough! After reading about these situations Speedway will always be my last resort for anything!

 

Need to rebuild your pressure plate? I will fix you up. American company great work. Pm me.

 

An I-phone with three wraps of duct tape is today's answer. Who let you out of 1952?

 

On my adapter was not centered with the crank, it was out about .12". I had to use offset dowels to correct it.

 

I had this problem with my speedway conversion. The sleeve that goes over the input shaft on the transmission was too big and when clutch disc dust built up the throw out bearing pulled the sleeve forward and rubbed against the clutch disc. Speedway claimed they new of no problems with the kit. I had a machinist turn down the sleeve. I don't remember if it was 5 or 10 thousandths. We reinstalled the sleeve and drilled a hole and pinned it also. That took care of the grinding noise I had. Now I can hear the throw out bearing rattle a little bit on sleeve but I can deal with that. It took over a year for us to figure out this problem.

 

So there you have it...get out your yardstick and check concentricity!

 

Just to clarify, I was not able to shift my car after I adjusted the clutch and drove it a few miles.
The first few miles were fine and then I would start hearing a grinding noise and was not able to shift gears. I would go home and adjust the clutch and drive it another couple miles and the same thing would happen. I don't know if you have the same problem but I though I would share my issues with the kit with this thread. The noise I experienced was pretty loud when the sleeve contacted the disc.

 

Turns out Speedway is not the only adapter that has an interference problem with the counterweights on certain pressure plates, I had your exact problem with the Cornhusker set up I bought. After pulling the transmission the problem was obvious. A trip to the milling machine and problem solved. Maybe I got a little carried away but I did not want any reoccurring problems as the clutch disc wears . . .

 

Go to your nearest NAPA store and get a 10" diaphram Pressure Plate. Problem solved:
Part Number CA 30

 

^^^^ That's good info!
Does it have the Ford flywheel bolt pattern?
What throwout bearing works with the early Ford fork?

 

I'm gonna chime in here. The adaptors haven't changed, it's the pps. I sold hundreds of 10 inch pp's over the years and never had a problem. The problem started about 4 years ago when my US supplier stopped making the 10" Long style PP because he got so expensive no one would buy theirs. I assume my supplier along with Speedway started buying the foreign made pp's. I have a paragraph in my instructions warning of this problem. It doesn't occur with every pp just a few. There's pps out there that will work but most guys don't want to spend the money. I would have to get 200 + to make them worth carrying. For my business it may be a better option to just quit selling PPs. Fort Wayne Clutch is a good option and that may be where I start sending my customers? Lastly the problem I have encountered with the diaphragm pp is the center hole being to small to work with the early Ford Brg and hub. There may be a diaphragm pp that I'm unaware of? Gary at Cornhusker

 

@krylon32:
There was at least one problem, mine.
You said: Should have followed the instructions and checked PP clearance.
I said: Saw the warning but since I paid extra money to buy the PP from you figured it would be OK.
Score: Draw.
Bottom line: After an unplanned teardown and machining everything has since been fine.

 

I am working on sourcing a new pp supplier but cost is an issue. As I said I may just refer everyone to Fort Wayne and be done with it but that is not the way I've done things for 30+ years. Gary at Cornhusker

 

Why not just clearance the housings as above? Looks like a pretty quick job.

 

I called Nebraska's largest clutch house and they had a 10 inch CA30 diaphragm on the shelf along with rebuilt 10 inch original Long 3 finger PP. Both will be at the shop tomorrow. I'll compare all the dimensions and report back. Gary at Cornhusker

 

You the only house in America that doesn't get 5 telephone books thrown in the driveway in the spring?

 

Kevin it is the weights hitting inside the adaptor. I machine every adapter I use. Offy adapters have the same problem.

 

Kevin. Here is what I do.