GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

Been working away on my 57 Corvette. Motor is going in this week-end.

 

My Anglia ran a Dual Point distributor with a CD box in both the Big Block and Small block motors. It had been in the 55 Chevy C/Gas car before the Anglia, so starting about 1966-7

 

I can't wait to see it

 

My guess would be whatever was close at hand maybe, I much prefer the look of the square tube rather than the round tube

 

My first set were out of 1" round tube and I was trying a set of the new M & H AFX slicks they got bent up pretty good

They were just too much tire for that 327 , so I put a 50 lb steel flywheel in the car and that is when I bent up the bars from tire hop

My friend Jim Hill who owned Exhaust Engineering made me a net set out of 2" by4" tube that are still on the car to this day, those baby's were bullet proof

 

When Chuck Finders built the "Ron Bizio" Truck in '65, he used 1-1/2 X 3" tube. Those bars are still in place today.

 

I also prefer square.

 

I am planning on round ones on the students. Been busy at a buddies shop working on some cylinder heads

 

I meant Studebaker

 

Any chance I can get some pictures of how u are running your throttle linkage set up? I am trying to figure out a set up for the Studebaker

 

My Gasser isn't past the mockup stage. It will be dual carb so linkage will be interesting. I typically use a cable although my 55 Chevy had a rod. That brings up an interesting point I hadn't considered, is a cable too "new" tech to be used on a 60's look? Assume yes.

 

You are right Dave no cables , just rods - bell cranks and rod ends and a good spring if you are using a injector

A must is a stop on your foot petal so you don't put the linkage in a bind a full tilt, with either carbs or injection

I have seen quite a few crashed cars & hurt drivers because of improper linkage set ups, where it sticks and you run out of room and crash bang so be sure to have a good toe strap on your foot petal too

On my 37' the petal was high enough I just ran a rod straight through the fire wall to the 90 degree bell crank mounted in the center of the injector manifold using the center two outside bolts

Then a short rod across to the other side of the injector throttle shaft, using 4 rod ends and a spring just very simple and pretty bullet proof

G Don

 

Good info

 

After my rod's linkage post I thought about one more thing on starting a injected engine

When you first start the engine the thing will bobble just for a instant before the gas gets to all the nozzles, you CANT touch the gas petal or the engine can stall because of lack of fuel !!!!!!

That injector is not like a carb that has a pump that squirts fuel into the port, it just works off of fuel pressure to the nozzles

When I was racing I would always try to start my car first , because you can hear how your engine is running then it lets you know when you can rev it up and be OK

If the other guy starts his car first you cant hear how your's is running, and is where the solid rods throttle linkage is most important

You get to learn how to feel how the engine is running by the feel in your right foot, and if you hit the petal too soon and it quits you just lost that race right there in the start up area

Because you have lost the prime in the injectors, and have to squirt them again to fire it up and the other guy is not going to wait for you to do that either is the starter guy and they wave you off

I know because it happened to me ONCE , after that I learned to be more careful about starting up my car with the Hilborns

Its all just common sense about knowing your complete race car from end to end, because if you are heads up it will tell you a lot of stuff you need to know and that is how you learn to be a sharp racer dude and do some winning too

G Don

 

All great info, from a great racer! Don, THANKS Gary

 

Thanks Gary

Just little things you learn and it nice to pass them on, to the guys that are on the road to racing their machine one day

Just might save them some bad days in the future, that is why these forums are so good to use and keep alive

G Don

 

If any one is looking for some top Quality made in the USA spring pads

If your running odd ball spring sizes or the std. 13/4 I got them or can make them up

Spring sizes in the pic
13/4"- 2"- 21/4" and 21/2"

https://www.facebook.com/pages/WAC-Customs/602766899798304

 

Cool
thanks for posting

 

Hello Don and fellow Gassers. I started reading this from the start, looking for a set of Halibrand spindle mount Sprints. I see you are out of So. Cal. I have Ernie Nicholson's 41 Stuedbaker Super Stude, Tony Nancy did most of the work on this car , and wanting to get it back on track in Pamona or March meet in Bakersfield at the latest. I need front wheels, early Donovan valve covers for late model Hemi, and early small Barn Door Injection by Enderle. Sorry to but in, im having a problem finding these three items. Sounds like your also into the Gasser too....Thanks Ted McClure [email protected] Im in Las Vegas, Nv. Here is a pic of the Engine.

 

Hi Ted

And welcome to the gasser thread as we need fresh guys to keep this going, and with your car you are going to fit right in

I have been away from the racing deal for 30 yrs now, and do not have any links for speed stuff anymore

You have a serious car there with that huffer on top, hope you find the parts you are looking for

G Don

 

U got more pictures of the stude?

 

Well started mocking up the hilborn

 

Hi CG

Do you have room for a heat baffle between your fuel pump and the head, as it is going to warm up your fuel and that is not a good thing

The colder the fuel the more HP you get, plus the hot pump might cause starting problems as you just never know till it happens

Better to be on the safe side while you and building your racer

G Don

 

I will check into it. Thanks for the idea

 

After the post I was thinking it would be better if you could turn the pump around and have it pointing forward, plus you would have more room for your plumbing of the hose's and be really away from that hot head

Maybe make a new bracket that holds the belt drive set up ?

Takes a little noodling at times to get it right !!!

 

I was looking at your engine pic and maybe you could make longer spacers for the belt drive mount , and run the fuel pump belt on the outside of your water pump belt

Then it would move the pump away from the heat, and use the same set up and you might need a longer keyed shaft that holds the bottom pulleys

 

The longer spacer idea is the best idea I think

 

Yep you need to keep that pump as cool as you can, mo better for the momo as it likes cool fuel and cool air then its a happy camper

 

A gasser must have cool period seats.
Picked up a pair of 68 mustang buckets today for mine