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Projects Old School Belt Tensioner For Ford Flathead?

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by mcload, Apr 8, 2015.

  1. mcload
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 539

    mcload
    Member

    Hello all. I am trying to finish the restoration of a custom fiberglass-bodied car known as the "Venus". In general, they used a '49 Ford chassis and flatty. Of maybe 10 or so that were made, only 2 are known to still exist. If you would care to see some photos, I've posted a bunch on Pin Interest until I can get my new blog site finished. For what it's worth (not much) it was on the cover of Motor Trend, May 1954. https://www.pinterest.com/patrickmcload/the-fabulous-venus-car/
    =======
    I am going to have to move the generator over to the side of the left head to allow clearance for the hood. But as most of you know, this greatly decreases the contact area of the belt with the left water pump. As a result, I am going to have to install a belt tensioner and a longer belt. Of course, there are tons of nice tensioner devices available, but since I want to stay "period correct", I was just wondering what some of you have done in this instance. As much as having a spring-loaded tensioner, I'm not real certain they were available back in 1954. I guess I could make a small pulley on my lathe and bolt it down against the belt (like we did in the older GM cars, i.e. alternator), but I would be on the backside of the belt, so the pulley would have to have a flat groove as opposed to a V.

    So, I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or possibly knows an outfit making "old school" belt tensioners. I've included a photo of the engine I completely restored; turns out is was a '51 Merc flathead. Please excuse the light blue color...I've changed my mind and will be respraying it. And by the way, I will not be running with those air-cleaner cans on the carbs...they won't clear the hood.
    (The carbs are authentic Strombergs).

    Thanks in advance.
    Patrick
    MT Copy.jpg
    Flathead.jpg
     
  2. An adjustable backside idler might work. Pm me your email and I'll send a picture. Send thru conversation I should say.
     
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,285

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015

  4. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,408

    oldolds
    Member

    There is no need to make a pully to do that job. Lots of equiptment uses a flat pully to do that job. You can go to a lawn mower shop and get your choice of sizes. An industrial supply would have a better quality if needed.
     
  5. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not sure about down in your part of the country, but here in the midwest there are farm equipment salvage yards where old combines, windrowers, corn pickers and all kinds of old farm machinery is "retired". Those are great places to find bits and pieces such as what you're after.
     
  6. 36tbird
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,143

    36tbird
    Member

    If you mount the generator or alternator in the lowest position, will that clear the hood? If so, you could bolt it down solid and bring a tensioner wheel in from the driver's side above the water pump. I built a swing arm mount that hangs from the aftermarket alternator "sling shot" and attached an all thread rod to the bottom of the slingshot piece thru the swing arm to tighten. Obviously, the tension pulley mounts on the swing arm.

    Pic is not the final version of what I tried to describe below but shows early ideas I had for this. Maybe it will help.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. mcload
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 539

    mcload
    Member

    Thank you all for the ideas and responses....greatly appreciated.
     
  8. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,566

    Elrod
    Member

    Here is the tensioner from a 1937 McCulloch blower.

    [​IMG]
     

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