Projects 34 Chevy Sedan Project

I havnt had a look at the groups for a week or so. I'll go check it out, cheers Jeff.

 

Update:
Fitted the brake lines. Messed up a some of the measurements and had to redo a couple, but now brakes are working like a bomb. No leaks! Pedal feels good. Sending the master cylinder for a rebuild as it has a small leak where it joins the booster. Need to do some final work on the pedal pad geometry itself so that it sits just right underfoot.

Steering is finally done! I had originally planned side-steer until I realized that it wasn't going to work with my front shocks being in the way of the steering arm path, as well as the Lakes pipes being in the way of the push rod. Ended up going cross-steer. Found a really good condition GM (Isuzu) box that fitted perfectly just behind the engine mount. Had to swing the pitman arm 180 degrees on the output spline, but that was relatively easy. I've seen steering box mounting plates on other cars flex under load, so I went a bit overkill on my mounting plate and gusseted it in several places to make sure that there is no movement. The side loads are quite hectic when the car is stationary. The geometry looks good, but I suppose the real test is to see how it feels when I drive it.

Roof filler panel is done. I first made all new cross braces for the roof out of square tubing. Then for the filler piece, I used a sheet of 1mm mild steel that I hand chose at the supplier. I had previously made a test/template using a thinner 0.6mm sheet, it worked well as a test/dummy piece, but I wasn't happy with the thickness. Too flimsy. After much tracing, cutting and trimming, I was finally happy with the fit of the new sheet. After etch priming both sides, except for a 1" strip all around, I slowly welded it in place using my home made butt welding clamps and my Mig on a fairly low setting. I had to experiment with different power & wire feed settings until I got it to where it worked the best to butt weld the old to the new. I did this over a period of several days and took my time. I'm happy with the results for my first time. Standing back and looking at it, the only real issues are with the old portion of the curved roof sides, where some of the old metal had the odd warp that I will work out before spraying.

Lifted the body off the frame (hopefully for the last time) and put it on a wheeled dolly so that we can do the final body prep and spray.

Also, my gauges arrived, so I fitted the fuel level sensor in the tank and did a mockup of the gauges for the dash.
Going to be a bit of a squeeze fitting them all into the limited space in the dash panel, but I'm playing around with layouts.

Next to do on my never ending list (other than painting the body work): gear shift linkage, emergency brake, wiring and propshaft. Then test drive...

Steve

 

Nice 'Master' sedan. Unusual with 'Standard' leaf springs in front and not lever action?

 

Good to get caught up on your progress

 

Nice to hear it is getting there Steve - you got a completion date in mind? (Speedweek is less than 6 weeks away ;-) )

I need to pop by and check it out in person some time....

 

Yup, I can't say for a fact, but I'm not sure if they ever used the knee action front end in the models produced here (locally in South Africa). I'm glad mine didn't have it though.
You're correct on the Master, chassis K, wheelbase and dash confirm this.
Steve


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Ya I initially had my heart set on Speedweek this year, but although I'm making progress, it's not looking too likely time-wise. I would like to do a proper shakedown and road test before a trip like that, plus my racing is taking up so much time this season (just got back tonight from our Namibia race in Windhoek)
Always some damn thing on the race car that needs fixing or replacing. This season the damn brakes are driving me batshit. I'm taking a break at the end of the season, so that I have more time to work on my Hotrod projects. Nine years of turning money into noise is enough. There was a time when racing was my passion, but nowadays when I walk into my workshop, I'd honestly rather spend my time on my Hotrod than my racecar.
If I don't make it to Speedweek this year, I will definitely make it next year. I'm also very keen to see the Bloodhound SSC run next year.
You're welcome to pop by anytime. Would appreciate your input. Drop me a line when you are in the area because I'm not always there.
Steve


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Will post some updated pics soon.


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Some progress pics of the roof insert:


Welding done


Minimal mud


MS primer still wet

 

Starting with the final assembly. Trying to follow a sequence and make sure that I don't forget anything and then end up having to back and do it again.

 

First test drive. Lots to do but it was a milestone that I have been looking forward to for the last few years. Surprisingly everything worked just fine. Now to finish assembling.





Hamb iPhone App.

 

Nice! - nothing like that first test drive. Have you stopped smiling yet?

 

Thanks Barry, still smiling At least now I can relax and finish all the fiddly bits.
She really drove well, steering felt good even though the toe was way out. So glad that I went with cross steer. I will still tweak the caster angle a bit. Brakes are awesome. The TH350 box really impressed me after the harshness of the TCI streetfighter C4 in the 36 Ford. The 350 is super smooth, was worth paying for the hi end tranny rebuild.
I realize the if I fit narrower front tyres it will look a lot more traditional, so I will probably go that route.
The 307 runs cool and doesn't miss a beat.


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Maybe try find some 305 heads - fitting those on my 307 really woke it up!
And I agree that skinnier fronts would look good...

 

what roof insert did you use I'm starting on my 35 standard

 

btt

 

Flatmotor40, I made my own insert using 1mm sheet (20 gauge I think). Actually I made two, the first was to test fit and see a) if it would actually work and b) take the original curvature of the surrounding edges. I found that the curve was gentle enough for the sheet to take the shape without much pressure. I wanted a 'flat look'. The rear corners were trickier than the front. I made up a ton of butt welding clamps and got the 1st sheet to fit just right, then traced the outline onto a fresh new piece. I pre-primed the sheet top and bottom except for about 2 inches all around the edge, and clamped it in place with the butt clamps. Mig welded in place going very slowly. Had my helper hold a block of aluminium under the joint as I went. The original roof surround was pretty wavy in places and I had to make relief cuts in places to get it to fall in line with the new insert. A bit of hammering here and there. I let the insert take it's profile shape from the surrounding metal edges and it seemed to like that, I just let it go with the flow, so the sheet wasn't stressed. After grinding down the high spots on the welding, I found that we hardly needed much filler at all before priming.

Prior to this, I had removed the old wood cross-braces that were dried out and brittle and replaced them with 20mm steel tubing cross-braces. The original ash wood framework was in good shape, so I fixed the new braces into that, making sure that the top of the new braces were flush with the top of the wood frame. There is a gap between the cross braces and the sheet of about 5 to 10mm. I inserted some 2" long pieces of high density foam rubber in three places on each brace, between the brace and the sheet. No oil canning and pretty solid.
Steve

 

Barry, I have a set of 305 Vortec heads in my workshop. I will check the head numbers. Not sure if they will work.
Steve

 

Thanks I 'm a long way from that but you didn't do it on a english wheel or something like that.

 

No English wheel used. I'm sure it would have helped, but as long as you don't cut away too much of the surrounding material, you should be ok.


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I have a set of 305 Vortec heads and a matching 7116 Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold.

Steve


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Thanks

 

So, I've been out on quite a few test drives, and racked up a fair amount of miles on some of the quieter country roads. Sorted out a few teething problems but nothing major so far. Fuel filter blocked/restricted by a loose element inside was my biggest pita.
Ride is generally quite nice, if a little firm. I've been playing with tire pressures. Less squeaks and rattles as I've been progressively adding the door rubbers. Cruises nicely at around 2200 rpm because I have a 3.058 diff ratio. I've also been messing with different baffle versions/materials in the lake headers and the sound is getting better (quieter and less raspy), but it's not quite right yet. I also changed the grille from red to charcoal, as I felt the red was just a bit 'in your face' and I'm happier with the result.
Still waiting for a replacement vacuum secondary diaphragm so only running on primaries at the moment. Parts take forever to get to this neck of the woods..

 

Great to hear Steve - are you going to take it to the George show?

 

Sunday drive on a Monday.

 

Do you have any pictures of what you did with the rear? Tail light?
I just picked up a 34 sedan so Im trying to get ideas. Thanks