Looking very nice! Quick question: Are you going to use anything to help those radius rods keep the rear from twisting? Curious what others think. Pete
I would add some 'K' legs to that centre cross member to prevent lateral twist under load. You've done the fish (reinforcing) plates where frame kicks up at rear, did you do likewise at the front? As stated, those rear arms are only single shear at the front. Personally I would prefer double shear for safety reasons; however standards are different down here.
Well I think you're off to a great start. I don't like the guy who walks into the kitchen during dinner preparations and asks "why is this place such a mess" so I certainly don't want to be that guy. Not that you asked for opinions either. But this rear spring is way too long for the hangers spacing. Or the hangers are too close for the spring. Ill guess that you walked the bones in to clear the start of the kickup. Correcting this will monkey with your ride height. So better to get it sorted now than later. The original torque tube worked in unison with the bones. Since the torque tube is removed, you need to replace that function the torque tube performed. There's a few ways to do that. Creating a ladder bar by using the bones as the bottom leg works well and looks good. A torque arm is another. A pan hard bar controls side to side shift within the shackles swing, where torque control will keep the rear end from rotating and snapping the bones. Those bones were never designed to do anything else than control triangulation location.
Do you have any pics of the front suspension modifications/ construction? It's looking really nice. Keep up the good work!!
Thanks pal. I do appreciate the kind suggestions and pointers. I agree with the rear spring being way too long and I already replaced it with a more narrow spring to mitigate that issue. I also have some ideas to fab something up and help reinforce the rear bones
I would suggest a torque arm or if you have room you could triangulate the radius rods that are there now, that's what I did on my T. The 35-36 rods are the strongest ones as they carried the rears weight and are a much heavier cross section. JW
I personally thing that you need to rotate the cab 90 degrees or your geometry is going to off just a little bit. Looks like you are off and running.
Looking at the front end I see you have the spring behind the axle, what are your plans for the tie rod? I really like your build so far. JW