Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

If I remember right my frame is 11 gauge.

 

Which is about .120 and called 1/8" by many

 

Dick I'm sure it's not 1/4". If the only thing thinner would be 1/8" than that is what it is.

Gary

 

Never seen it before, very kool video

 

11 gage or 1/8" has a radius of 1/8" to 7/32" and the 3/16 wall had a radius of 1/4" to 1/2" and 1/4" wall has radius of 3/8 to 5/8", and it looks to me to be too tight of a radius to be the 3/16"

 

Going back to the question on the Model T chassis, could the difference be up to 25 and 26-27?
Jeremy

 

Gary never apologize for what type of dog you have rescued and given a loving home too. Chip has just lost his beloved Cockapoo dog ( Sorry can't remember his name Chip ) and from the comments posted at the time, we here are not only T Roadster nuts, but we all appear to love our dogs at home too. Here is a picture of my little Trixie who I rescued from the shelter when she was only 8 months old and sadly she had been ill treated.

 

I have met Trixie and can say what a lovely pooch, Marc is ok too.
Jeremy

 

At the risk of turning this into a pet thread meet Trixie Bell and Molly. They just tolerate each other.
Trixie and I take a two mile walk around the neighborhood daily. I being a friendly guy have taken to waving at my neighbors as they drive by. Oh and I haven't gotten a haircut in who knows when so I just pull my hair back in a ponytail. I'm sure my neighbors refer to me as the "Gay,Retarded,Waving guy."
Gary

 

So has anyone else seen the May hot rod deluxe? It's full of T's.

 

He's no mini poodle but my road dog Nash likes Hot rod T's as well

No word wether or not this black mouth cur is roadster compliant but at 95 pounds he'd be a tight fit haha

 

Interestingly Gary and Marc, my oldest, a chocolate lab, is also Trixie. No pic, I'm at work. Also, I don't wanna turn this into the dog thread, haha.

 

Shit I was just in town and wanted to check it out but forgot.

 

Just another excuse to go for another drive in you T Gary and don't forget to wave to everybody .
That flamed '26/27 Tub looks very interesting and super cool. I think it has a Ponty engine in does it ? I have a soft spot for that late model car sitting beside it too.

 

Well guys, I have bitten the bullet and have decided to take photo's and start a bit of dialogue on where I'm at with my piece of " Ugly " and I have even taken photo's. Sorry, but I will have to apologize heaps as I don't have the welding skill that Eric has nor any of his amazing manufacturing ability.
I found that what I believed was going to be an easy fix with the drivers door, was a nightmare, so I thought, get into it and stop procrastinating. I have removed the A pillar again and have taken the hacksaw to it hoping to fix where the hinges bolt to give them more movement in adjustment. I have debated with myself about going and purchasing some more steel the correct size and starting again but I keep thinking that it doesn't really matter if the pillar ends up shitty looking as once the trim is done, nobody will be able to see my mess.
In the first photo you can see that I have cut the cross frame so that I could remove the right hand side easily. this will be welded together again to make it one solid piece the full width of the car. the other thing of note is the seat rise will be welded across the B pillars at it's new lower height.

 

That is the final position I would like to have the hand brake as I will be able to reach it while strapped in with the seat belt but that is going to create some fancy work in the seat rise plus the seat base but I don't think it will be to difficult or look silly when done. The hand brake was facing east west when I purchased the car and one had to reach between ones legs to pull it up. Not only was this awkward but the cable was fitted around wooden blocks to get the system to work properly which amazed me how the car got warrants of fitness all those years before I owned it.

 

Oh the other thing that shows in these photo's is the fuse box which I had felt under to see how it was attached due to it will have to be lowered down to sit down beside the battery so that the seat base isn't on top of it. I see in this photo now how it is screwed so heck, taking these photo's has paid off.

 

Started trying to install my top bows and the damned things are giving me fits
I have that 28-32 top bow kit and may end up cannibalizing it for material and modifying it into something that will work.
I have half a mind to drag the whole thing to Rod Tops shop in Michigan and have a top built
Of course I wont as its a long damned way from here and the cost would be high.
I haven't given up. ( yet ) I'll keep trying.
Larry

 

Great you are making progress Marc. I feel I will need to try harder on mine. Oh and I have a Fox Terrier named Trixie also.
Jeremy

 

Hey Jalopy45,

I'll give you my take on the frame wall thickness deal.... Very simple, 3/16". the first couple of these cars I built, I did the 1 1/2"X3" X 1/8" stuff that every body else was doing, and even with a fully welded trans crossmember, it still flexed and moved about. When I started building frames for Roy's stuff, I asked if he could purchase the material for the first. He said he had some in the yard and would I mind working with that. Sure, what the heck. So dragged over a bunch of 2"X3" 3/16" wall stuff.... Bummer, 'cause it's a bit heavier than I'm used to. Guess what though? The first I built for him went dead straight, handled better than a short wheelbase car should, and didn't flex like a wet noodle when it was thrown around... BINGO! I honestly haven't built a lighter gauge frame since.

Yes, it's a bit heavier, but we aren't racing these cars for the most part, and there isn't a weight penalty for what we do with them. My car, weighs 1895 with me behind the wheel. (I've lost 10lbs since I last cited the cars weight with me in it!) That's still remarkably light, and it's rock solid. I also like the radius of the edges better, too.

 

Nitrobrother,

There's an FE powered T in posts 188 & 189 over in the Wild Pipes thread.

Kurt

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Another apology from me too..... I had named Eric in my post above..... it should of been Larry, sorry Larry. And sorry to Eric as I'm sure if he had the time to be building his wifes T Roadster he would be and setting the bar extremely high for me to try and equal work wise.

 

Bit the bullet and ordered 2x 20ft. lengths of 2"X3" 3/16 wall tubing, Had to buy complete pieces so maybe a trailer is in the future.

 

Unless you're building something w/ a really long wheel base , now you have an extra stick !
dave

 

Or prepared for a fuckup That is not what we plan to do, but unfortunately, it happens occasionally.
whatever, it is a beginning, now on to the plan, measure twice and cut once and get it under construction.

 

I diffidently agree with Dick here with the measure, measure, measure again before cutting and I don't need to tell you why either.

 

Jalopy, I used 2x4x3/16th for three A frames, never flexed, you could jack one wheel and
the entire side would raise up. The cross members were cut from same stock, w/the front
one laid down.

 

I looked at several plans and came up with 21 feet and a few inches for what I am planning, but the wholesaler only sells full length, the same with steel and aluminum , full sheets only. The price delivered where I live is still cheaper than the fuel to drive to the nearest steel yard (100 miles each way) and buy exactly what I need.

 

I know this is probably 20/20 hindsight for you jalopy and I think I've said it before but unless I was going to build something special and just needed a bucket frame I think I would just buy a speedway frame. At least you would know it was strait and welded well and made out of the right material. It's a lot of work welding, designing, measuring, leveling and welding to build a frame. Except for the front bulldog that is all my frame is, and I spent many, many hours of hard work building it. They have bucket frames for A or T rear springs or other suspension. I haven't looked lately but last I looked I remember them not costing to many $s. Even if it wasn't just what you wanted modifying it wouldn't be too much trouble. A lot easier than starting from scratch. Even stretching it some wouldn't too much trouble.
I know this doesn't sound like me and looking back I wish I had fixed and used the frame that came with what I originally bought. Looking back more it probably would have been the same or less work to do that.
Oh yes I wish I had the Greeves back.
Gary

 

But that's where the fun begins
Jeremy