Nice little dodge. I traded my old 47 caddy for a low-box 55 in Portland, Oregon back in the early 70s. I loved that truck. Had a fla thead 6 with the 3 speed trans and 15X8 inch chrome wheels. About the only problems had with it were the damn wheel cylinders leaking. Crappy photo but it's the only photo I have of that truck
Thats great, I can't believe how few I've seen. Never one in person, but several on tv shows (in the background), and of course the internet. Perhaps it is because they are just rare, or undesirable. From my records, they built less than 10,000 1/2 and 3/4 tons in 1955, so I'll just keep telling myself that they are really rare.
I'm a little confused and concerned about your fuel pump mounting. How far below the frame does it actually sit? In the picture it looks to be a few inches below the frame. How close it it to the actual fuel tank? I don't see a tank in the picture. Electric fuel pumps need to be as close to the tank as possible. They push the fuel, rather then pull the fuel. With a pump like the one pictured, only the fuel lines need to be at the same level with the bottom of the tank, the pump itself doesn't touch the fuel. You will also find it to be an advantage if you mount the outlet side of the pump a little higher from level, then the inlet side of the pump. Bend the fuel lines to accommodate this. You want the inlet side of the pump to have fuel present at all times. When you shut the pump off, the fuel will return to the lowest point in the lines, you want that point to be at the pump inlet. Some people will mount the pump just below the bottom of the tank, then bend the outlet line up and towards the top of the tank to run to the motor, then the pump will always have fuel in it. There were always lower numbers of Dodge trucks built then Chevy or Ford trucks. The early 50s (51 & 52) had higher production numbers then the mid/late 50s trucks had. The Dodge redesign in 61 (or 62) again brought the numbers up, but not to the 51 numbers. It would be the redesign in the 70s that it would take to get the Dodge production numbers up. There seems to be a lot of 60s Dodge trucks around because the basic truck shape/design changed very little from 61 through 71. Gene
The tank was removed in that picture, but the bottom of the pump is about even with the bottom of the tank. The tank sits a couple inches below the frame as well. And it is as close to the tank sump line as possible (with the pre filter in between). And yes, after the pump, the line does go "uphill."
More of the same lately on the progress. More wiring mostly. But I also mounted a power steering box out of a gen I chevy astro right in the place of the old manual box. (pics to come) I don't even think I'll need to trim the inner fenders. I also made the steering shaft from the firewall to the box. And then I bought a speedway tie rod with the pre-tapped ends. And since I was having trouble finding the exact specs on the speedway tie rod, I'll just lay it out for everyone. It IS in fact DOM tubing 7/8" OD x .156 wall. The one I got had a nice black coating on it. My measurements apparently sucked, so I had to cut mine down. There were enough threads (about 3 in depth on each side) for me to shorten it 2 inches without re-tapping. That's when I found out that my measurements really sucked, so I had to cut it more and re-tap it. The clearance is a little tight with the axle having been flipped, but hey, clearance is clearance.
So here is the power steering box. This is probably one of the most complicated brackets ive built yet
Then it came down to adapting the pitman arm to the drag link arm. And since the back of the pitman arm (or drop arm technically) is close to the leaf spring at full suspension compression, I had to keep the drag link connector flush on the back. So I drilled and tapped a 3/4"-10 in the pitman arm, then I had to single point thread the 3/4 shaft (because I didn't have a big enough die). I assembled it, and drilled and tapped for two set screws to lock the 3/4 shaft in small detents I made. When I finally assemble it, I will threadlock everything. What do you think, is that enough? And here is the drag link. I made a bung for the 3/4 rod end, and I had an 11/16-18 one laying around, so now I just have to weld these in. I ordered some cone spacers for the rod end as well. Then of course I'll cut the 3/4 shaft to length. And finally, the steering shaft linkage. I used the same 3/4 shaft, and just milled the DD on each end, and yes, they are in phase.
Here is the latest. I've been doing the fun stuff, building the exhaust. One of those things that's a little easier with the fenders and bed still off. From the front, driver side: driver side that pic was kinda dark, anyway, along the trans: and snaking around the trans crossmember:
And then to the muffler: out and over: And the grand finale: Now I've got to make some hangars from 1/8" plate, take it apart and TIG it up all nice.
Looks great! I'm liking the astro box solution.. is the drop / pitman arm the one from the Astro itself? Would you want to make another bracket? Can you post a couple more pics on how that bracket mounts to the frame? Did you weld tabs on the top of the frame to mount to the back of the bracket? Was the frame cut at all around the pump? The job you did on the exhaust looks really sanitary, excellent work!
4msfam, The drop arm is from the astro as well. It is nearly a perfect geometry match to the original manual box. I don't think I could make a bracket and be assured it would fit your application for a couple reasons: I tucked mine in real close to the engine to avoid cutting the inner fenders (haven't tried to fit them yet, but if I have to trim, it will be a minimum). And also because it is sorta a tack-in-place operation to make sure there is no binding. So the bracket is welded to the frame at two points and bolted to the front crossmember at one point. The two welded sections were split, then a lap-type joint welded to the frame side, then nuts welded to the back of those, then the removable "cage" type part needed thru holes to bolt on. Those are the four bolts you see in the very bottom of post #218. When I remove the box for painting soon, I will take more pics that will explain it clearly. And finally, no, the frame was not cut at all, but the box is so low, it is essentially sitting on it. And as a side note, for my axle setup, the box had to be reverse rotation, meaning clockwise input = counter clockwise output (from looking at the ends of the shafts).
I've been doing some odds and ends lately, a lot of wiring. I actually ran the wires through the floor to the center console and connected everything, so that was kind of exciting. I got to turn the key on and watch the gauges light up. (pics to come) So far, fingers crossed, there are no issues with the wiring. I finished mounting and welding the exhaust, I had to redo two of the steering shafts, do a mini tunnel on a cross member for the driveshaft, and I ran the front brake lines. Getting a shop to modify my power steering hose with a crimp end was a monumental task. One shop started talking lawsuits and stuff if I didn't use the same brand hose and fittings. Another guy told me i was "f***ed" because nobody makes that part. Then finally, my local Napa did it for me in about ten minutes, go figure. Now I can put the fenders on since I don't need to work down there anymore. It's funny how the fenders completely transform vehicles for people that don't work on cars. All of the sudden, friends and family actually believe you have been doing something in the garage for the past year. Pics to come.
...most curious to hear how the new steering box works out when actually on the road. Please keep the updates coming! .
Sorry it's been a while, but here are a couple pictures of the steering box bracket. (though it is kinda hard to photograph) I must have done something right, because the inner fender fits it perfectly without trimming. Here is a view of one bracket mount. It uses some factory holes in the frame. And this is a close up of the mounting bolt geometry. The left side has a nut welded to it and is welded to the frame. The right side is part of the "cage" that fits over the box, as per previous pictures in previous posts.
Here are the gauges at work, on and off. As for the traditional purists out there, I think even you guys will have to admit that this set up fits the shape of the dash perfectly. I don't believe I could have fitted six gauges any other way without hacking up the dash or adding extra gauge pods hanging below. I'm trying to go with a theme of simple and modern at the same time.
Here are some odds and ends things I've done. Driveshaft and mini tunnels on the crossmember Headlight and turn sig wiring Seat belts And brake lines, exciting, I know
But this is the thing I am struggling with now. I'll leave these pictures as thumbnails because there are six of them, but please take a look and give any advice you have. You may have noticed the radiator is out now, that's because I have to redo the mounts after having to move the front clip back (3 steps forward, 2 back kinda thing). Now even with everything loose, these body panels are struggling to fit together. I am having to really tug on the drivers side fender to get the bolts started, and hood, well that's another story. So does anyone know if this kind of fitment issue is normal? Because I don't, heck this truck was 38 yrs old when I was born, plus this is the first vehicle I've built from the ground up.
That's pretty close... if you look at my avatar, none of my panels are really straight either. I have a pretty big gap looking at the nose and the passenger wing to the nose panel. Pushing the nose in and up a bit closed it up a tad. I think the biggest issue is your driver fender is down a bit vs. the "cowl" front nose piece... needs to go up about 1/8" to get it more flush.
Thanks for your input, I'll definitely try to get that drivers side up. Actually one thing I did do now that I remember is add 3/8" to all the body mounts in an attempt to raise the fenders and it had zero effect. So I'll try something else.
Well, to start, raising the body made everything worse for body alignment. But this is what I've been working on lately: doors. This is what the door jamb started like. Now after some treatment, This will give me a nice surface to mount the striker bolts. And these are the doors with electric window track, electric solenoids (technically these are gear driven actuators), and new latches. I am currently building interior door handle mechanisms from scratch. Pictures soon!!
Here are some pics of the door handle mechanisms I made. They will tie into the overall look once I put the door panels and armrests on. The thumbnails show the cable attachments.
I am now graduated from school, and looking for a job, so I have had tons of time to work on the truck, so much so that I haven't had time to photograph along the way. I finished the drivers side door, and the brake lines, and now Im working on the passenger door and an electrical issue. I am also going to start the engine soon and break it in. Exciting times, and pictures to come.
The Jalopy Journal
