I would like to hear from others who have used this product and please let me know the pro's and con's of using this primer. Thanks Jimbo
I like it. Its related to Feather Fill, same company. I used it mainly as it was intended, not as a replacement for better body work. It helped to ensure my final sands were straight. Temperature is a big deal, with the hardener it will cure fast on hot or humid days. You can thin it about 10% with ascetone, the good thing it cleans up well with ascetone. Mix as you need it, but do not use the same mixing container. I wetsanded it with a Dura Block that has a blue bottom with holes in it. Designed to cut better on this surface. I used 320 when it was cured. Its a bit of work because of the hardener. I am sure Upol is just as good, but I stuck with what I knew. For some small repair areas I am interested in trying some of the new 2K Spray Cans with the Hardender built in, similar to the Clear coats available from USC. The Spray Max Line. For example, the fiberglass deck lid on the roadster I am building is pretty straight, and for the cost I could use a can of the Max Spray and have less to clean up. Suggested tips for the spray gun are 1.8 to 2.2. I think the 2.2 would be better. People complain of the orange peel you can get, but after all you are block sanding it. I remember when this stuff came out, they said you could apply it with a roller, and well, you really can. But spray is the intended method.
I used a similar product on a frame that had been sand blasted and it filled all the pits very well. I think it was called Sandy.
SlickSand is good stuff. Sands way easier than Featherfill, but I'd never wet sand it. It's liquid polyester filler, or if you like, liquid Metal Glaze. Bondo and the finish filler, Metal Glaze, are both polyester fillers and they can absorb and trap water since all of the above are porous. It makes a great base over something that's been worked and filled and tends to make even the slightest of feather edges go away. We usually block Slick Sand with a 150 on a nice flat board or even a paint stick. I'd never paint right over the top of it, best to apply a 2K type build primer for the final blocking before color, then I prefer to use Shop Line epoxy primer 371 (white) or 377 (black) as a sealer by reducing it about 25%. Give that 20-30 min and go to color/clear.
Guys that like and use Slick Sand should try Evercoat's Super Build. It has double the build of Slick Sand, uses a 4:1 mix ratio rather than the MEKP drops and has two catalyst speeds so you can get up to 15 minutes more pot life out of it.
Did my whole car in slick sand it's some of the beat filler primer!!! Easy to mix easy to spray and easy to sand. The price is great too! Beast all around primer!
I've used it, and feather fill for 40 years. Great stuff if used correctly. It's better than urethane primer because its polyester, sort of a fiberglass/body putty mix. Never spray it with any water in your air, or it will blister... The water can't dry out. You can use an airless sprayer, too... Works great. I like about 6 coats of it, so you don't cut through. Use it instead of icing, etc, over you body putty and the entire panel. It fills pits, deep scratches, small dings and wiggles. We always sand it with 80 grit on a board file to quickly make cars super straight! You can fill pin holes in body putty, or dings you missed with icing over top of it. Be sure every speck of it is sanded. Top coat with 2-k primer. Block it with 180c prime 2k again, sand and paint. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I used it on my 34 chevy. The car was all metal finished and the slicksand was the only filler on it. Works great and 5 years later there is no shrink back.
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