Hot Rods my first hot rod...according to "H.A.M.B"......'30 ford coupe

So I'm grateful you guys commented on my steering set-up. Turns out my rod is not very drivable as she stands...gonna be way too much bump steer. My f-1 box setup would work great if the bones were 6" below the frame, they don't work on a radically low car. That's the problem. I like solutions, so the solution is a '65-'68 mustang box. The steering shaft is connected and the pitman arm sticks straight up.It's push, pull just like the f-1box so nothing else has to be changed. If you want I can explain it in detail, I'll just quote my hot rod buddy in Bakersfield, Calf. He's brilliant when it comes to hot rods.I've got real smart and clever friends, I'm blessed.
So, I fixed the alternator problem, my friend did more wiring, I plumbed the rear brakes,and installed my lokar shifter.Lastly I installed my sweeet chevy rear lights.

 

Well, my '65 mustang box came in and is ready to be mocked in,
also I chopped my windshield frame and got that mocked in. I learned that the model a windshield glass doesn't use a rubber gasket to install it, you remove the windshield post screws knock off the top rail and install the new glass using glass tape.
Lastly, I modified my ford front shock mounts......

 

got my shock and/brake hose mounts fabricated and installed......so now the rod brakes are all plumbed., ready to be bleed. It's nothing fancy, just functional. I'm still learning how to fabricate that ''cool"looking "stuff", like I see other HAMBers do.

 

What's the angle on those shocks? I hate to say it, but it looks a bit on the shallow side. You may want to move the wishbone side out more toward the frame to make for a steeper angle.

And hey most of the ''cool" looking "stuff" part of cool looking stuff happens with the finish work. Once you start hitting things with the grinder, files, and sandpaper, it'll look totally different!

 

yea patmanta, the shock angle is 45 degrees.....there 4" shocks. Its interesting how I extensively search almost everything I've done concerning building cars but didn't search this till after I read your post.
They say 28-30 degrees, some say straight up and down, one said 45 is no good, others say you can ask 100 people and get 100 different answers.......
for what its worth, I jumped on the front of the frame and they didn't bottom out ,and they did have some resistance. I really can't see how you can get much out of a 4" shock, but I'll bet somebody will correct me............

 

Henrys trunk floor was a serious compromise so he could have a rumble seat but it wasted a lot of room. I use my car as a daily driver and wanted all the space so I designed and installed a dropped floor.

 

well I'm not sure what "manyolcars" meant .......
I corrected my shock angle, now it's 18-20 degrees. When I jump on the frame it "appears" to be the same as before 45 degree angle, but I think thats impossible.I understand the importance of good shocks, especially when you experience the "death wobble" or bouncing tire syndrome.....real scary. Not the prettiest lower brackets, but they work for me.
Thanks for the heads up patmanta.....that's why I post my builds on the HAMB, so you guys can steer me in the right direction.

 

Wow. Just saw this thread and read the whole thing. This will be one cool hot rod.I'm not too far from you....maybe when the weather warms up a bit I'll slide up and check it out.

 

that would be cool man........
well I got my radiator installed, pretty happy with the way it turned out.........the fan is 2.5" thick, really skinny.....the radiator is from Superior radiators, cut down to 23", made to fit a '30'-31 ford grille. $350 to my door. They make radiators to fit '32 shells ,any height,any out /inlet location. Also it's made in the USA!
I threaded some metal rods and used lock nuts to secure the fan to the radiator. I noticed that the plastic rods that come with the fan expand when hot and your fan is sloppy loose. After they cool of they contract and the fan tightens up again.
Did you notice, when I attached the fan to the radiator, I didn't align the rods vertically, that's going to drive my crazy.

 

I'm no expert, but didn't Henry mount radiator w/ spring's?... maybe some have gone without, but I think most prefer radiators spring mount & castle nuts, so you don't crack those nice radiator welds.
I guess entire frame flexes, twists, & radiator "floats" on spring mount.
Thanks for posting such good pics. Very helpful build thread.
I've heard positives about Superior Radiator, & plan on ordering one myself.

 

thanks Bam.inc.........
at first I thought I don't need the spring setup, I've never used them and my radiators have been alright. Then I thought I always build a frame and attach the radiator to it then put rubber under the frame so the whole setup can move. I've never attached a radiator directly to the frame before. I saved my original model a radiator and it had the spring setup on it. The bolts were too short for mine so I initially eliminated them. I believe your correct so thanks for the heads up and here is my version.......

 

I got my headlights mounted today. I modified a model a headlight bar and welded them to my shock mounts. I'll probably run the headlights with the markers, although I think the others match the car better.
Also modified my radiator support bars. Had to lengthen them 8 1/2"because I flipped the fire wall and stretched the frame. Got some thick long nails at the hardware store. they did the trick.

 

built a trunk floor for my fuel cell, battery and some extra room for my ''stuff''. Also picked up a banjo for the rod.

 

Killer build! I like what you've done,and are doing= keep it up! Also- Thanks for the many pic's......
Nice to see progress,and idea's to fruition!

 

thanks man...........this is like a positive obsession, I really get something out of these builds.

 

well, I got my '65 mustang box installed. Now the drag link will be parallel with the wishbone arm so theoretically there should be no bump steer.I had a tapered, keyway steering shaft end so we welded that on the mustang shaft. I have to do some more tweaking to the pitman to get it rotate to it's maximum distance.

 

I got the gas tank strapped in , just need to get it vented properly and plumbed.I made it easy on myself, I welded the bottom straps to the floor. Motor almost ready to start up.

 

well, finally, I understand the concept of the drag link/steering arm, pitman arm/drag link positioning, and drag link/wishbone. My buddy got mine set up perfectly.The steering arm is at 90 degrees to the drag link , the pitman arm is at 90 degrees to the drag link. Also the drag link is, nuts on, parallel to the wish bone.

 

Your new pitman arm looks to be very long. You may find that the overall steering ratio is way too quick. You do not want the steering to be too touchy to drive comfortably.

 

I'm working on my tank too, & don't mean to be critical...but if you have 2.0"-2.5" travel in rearend...from the picture, this is lookin a liitle close? Maybe fuel tank drop is not really over rearend. But, from pic angle, it appears it will bottom out?

 

thanks for the input. I'll be driving her by the end of the month and will make adjustments if need be.

yea, I looked at that very closely. I'll take a better pics and you can see I have ample room. I'm considering putting a thicker spacer under the spring to be safe.
Thanks for your concern.

 

well,the coupe is registered and insured in New York State. Got a piece of metal from a '64 Cadillac roof, has the right contour and cutting it out fits like a glove. I'll weld it in and lead the seams. I should get my 1930 plates approved in about 30 days, then I should have her ready to drive. (pics are in reverse order)

 

got the roof filler piece welded and leaded in........

 

sweet!

 

Awesome that you are keeping the skill alive using lead.

 

my first start up..... video is fair quality, much better in person smelling the exhaust and hearing the thumper cam.......
View more in SlickPic photo gallery

 

well, I got the floor fabricated....the rear section is welded in while the two front sections are bolted in for easy access to the sifter linkage, brake pedal housing or for other unforeseen happenings.

 

almost ready to rock n roll

 

outside and riding the roads......got her inspected......didn't realize I was dragging one of the hoses to the remote oil filter set-up, blew the hose.....flat bedded home for repairs.

 

I like it!