Found a brake set, awesome help from fellow HAMBER Denis, found an article here that's a total step by step..thank you HAMB. I am using the stock clutch and so need to figure out what master cylinder will work best and how to hook it up...keep here the aftermarket stuff is junk so any suggestions are welcome. Finished painting the box..
Will be interested in how you handle/like the conversion to hydraulics, I'm still clinging to the thought of staying with mechanicals. Good luck and your sheet metal is looking good!
ok seasons over..time to get back at it…turning 40 next year s this needs to be done. currently she is in pieces, frames blasted and painted, wheels are done, engines out and going to get cleaning and checked out..nothing much happing to it. single down draft and a higher compression head 6.1.1 and a new distributor from a jamb member i need drum brakes to work with the stock spindles, anyone who has then to sell let me know or i am going to have to buy the kit and she's expensive.. then order a front axel from joe with just a 3 inch drop as i don't want her to low, reverse eye on both ends.. still debating tranny..open to suggestions
I have a few cracks in the firewall located around the hood supports at the top, very small was wondering best way to repair?
Ok so after a far to long break due to moving, losing the garage to an apartment etc etc I should be able to start again next week. Update Engine: Engine is at a local builder for tear down, see what kinda shape she is in. Once the condition is known I will go from there with the rebuild. If the Babbitt is in good shape, I will go with a low compression head 5.1 get it cleaned up, paint it and call it a day. I have a new distributor from Bubba, reds headers to dual outlet, single down draft intake, 97 stromberg (will use very small jet). If I have to put bearings in then I will go with a higher head comp 6.1 Frame: Blasted, painted, done Body: Body and truck bed are off blasted and primed, door has dents from where it was pushed into the spare on the fender will have to fix that Tranny: using stock tranny, had to replace bearing etc cost $35 from snyders, blasted painted done Brakes: Picked up some 40's backing plates for the rear, need drums, bought some 50's f100 front drum brakes. Have to order bearing adapters, and 28-48 spindles Wheels: 16 wire, 4.5 front 7.5 back, blasted painted done , need to order adapters that will support the wire wheels on drums Front: Pulling leaf sprint to get it reversed at local shop, ordered 2 1/2 model a drop axle from Joe, front wish bones, leaf all need blasting and paint Rear: Have to pull axle and replace seals, pull spring and get it reversed, axle is blasted and painted, been emptied have to order oil Then figure out brake lines, figure out what I'm doing with master cylinder as I will using stock tranny, figure out my 2 inch chopped windshield posts, bought from speedway but fit like crap, figure out seating position..and everything else that will come up..lol Will do my best to keep this updated as its overwhelming at the moment..good knowledgable friend says it's easy once you get going...hope so
Got some news about the engine today, few replacements but overall looks good. The Babbitt is in good shape but since I'm in deep anyway may replace with bearings so I can use a high comp head. Any suggestions on size, what works better then others
does anyone have a blueprint for lack of a better term that I can take to a machine shop to alter my rear backing plates?
http://www.lainefamily.com/ModelAFiles/ModelABrakeUpgrade.htm Same bolt circle, 15 degrees rotated. Can be done with a protractor, straight edge and hand tools.
Looking for some ideas on running my exhaust for model a roadster pick up. I'm using reds headers, runs into duals. Anyone using this set up let me know and pics would be great. The rpu is fender less
I would like the shocks to be angled out more but if I switch the bottom mount it won't clear the steering...suggestions
Engine is in, as mentioned I would have liked to have the shocks angled more but then they would be in the way of the steering. With the engine weight on the front end the shocks are about 16inches apart. Have a look let me know if you have any suggest? Observations?
The Jalopy Journal
