Projects The Hitchhikers Guide Episode VI: Return of the Hitchhiker.... Hot Rod Model A banger

Good luck with putting it all back together. Hopefully we get to see it running soon

 

Any updates????

 

Yeah!?! We need updates!

 

Nice read and lots of great info and ideas!
As for the paint, if you paint the fenders gloss black, how about highlighting the welds with flat black patches? Similar to if it was a stock glossy paint job from back in the day and then when they fixed the fenders, they just slapped on a primer coat over the welds since it was "only a work truck" and it didnt need to be perfect?

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12-14 hour days have kept me real busy....I did get done early today, thinking I will head down to the garage after lunch this afternoon.

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Set her back on 4 wheels last night so I could push the truck outside and sweep under it. I've managed to make some good progress in the last week or so. I got the temporary stock engine in, along with the trans. I'm waiting on a new u joint and then I can put the rear end in for the final time and hook up the brakes. I got all the brake lines mounted and plumbed. I greased the wheel bearings and spent much of last night double checking that all the bolts are tight and started installing cotter pins. Anyways, hope to be finished with it soon....The one thing I do want to find is another high compression head to stick on this engine until the Winfield is done. so if you have one you want to get rid of....

 

Looking good. Glad to see you back at it.

 

Good to hear that your back on it. Hopefully our A's can get together for a play-date this year...

 

Looking Good, Matt!

 

boy, does that sit just right- and ya gotta love the Banger!

 

Had to turn it around so I can fire it up with out filling the house with exhaust so snapped another picture. Got some good time in on it yesterday, I had a NOS Ford V8 u joint to install, and had a rough time getting it to fit on my 39 toploader output shaft. About 6 hours spent with small files taking down any high spots and it now fits like OJ's glove....The front, rearend and the trans are now all fully installed too, and everything tightened down. Everything is greased, or filled with the appropriate fluid.

Besides a few minor engine bits to install, I need to make the custom tie rod bar, and go into the shop with the brake bits and finish weld them and install cottor pins everywhere.

 

Awesome! Sooooo, what your saying is there should be a running
driving video by next weekend?

 

Love the stance. What Winfield head are you getting?? A new one from Tod?? I am waiting for the 7:1 cast iron crows foot.

 

I already have a original cast iron Super Winfield 7:1 crows foot head. I'm just look for a temporary high compression head for the temp motor.

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Last one.

 

I think you mean you want a permanent high compression head for your temp motor...

 

Haven't seen anything in a while, how's the project coming along?

 

^^^ This.

 

I haven't been on the hamb in months....Honestly I miss the place, but I was spending to much time here, and need to focus on other things.

and I haven't worked on the truck in months!

luckily I just got done with 2 huge projects and tonight I just ordered the last little parts I need.

I basically need to bleed the brakes, install a fuel line, grease everything, double check everything, and install a coil and plug wires.

so hopefully I will get that done next week. Cross your fingers, but don't hold your breath.

 

Good luck. Will be good to see this pickup running.

 

Fingers crossed, breathing.

 

Yes!

 

So, the engine does run. Brakes are all hooked up. But I have been fighting a leaking residual pressure valve. looking at old threads, it seems that there is a fair amount of problems with the Wilwood aluminum ones and the brass one from ECI are recommended.

 

I'm using a 67 Mustang drum/drum master, I believe the same as you.
I was told they have internal residual valves, so you should be able to eliminate the
Wilwood ones.

 

@Flowmeister I used that same MC on my A and could not figure out why I would loose brake pressure every time I applied the brakes. Ended up needing residual valves and it cured the problem. Those MC's are firewall mounted, so I do not know why they would have a back flow valve built into them

 

Residual pressure valves are used with drum brakes for a number of good reasons no matter where they are mounted. They are not simply back flow valves at all. The original valves used in the master cylinders are very robust and reliable. However they are easily left out or disabled by the myriad of experts out there and a 1967 anything would be suspect. A kit is very simple to install and make sure everything is correct. I have pressure tested a number of the aftermarket in line valves over the years and found them very unreliable. Some do work but it is a crap shoot. They seem to be a little better over the last few years.

 

Joemac05, can you elaborate? What are these "kits" you mention, and how do I determine if my M/C has the "kit" installed? I'm in the mock-up stage of exactly what Hitchiker has done and could use a little insight!

 

Thanks @Chris I'll be bleeding mine in the next few days, it will be interesting to
see what results I get.

 

I just checked my 1968 Drum/Drum mustang master cylinder and there are no residual pressure valves...

 

A master cylinder rebuild kit. It should come with new residual check valves. In a dual drum master cylinder there would be one in each brake line outlet port, (front and rear) often as part of the brass seat the brake line flare seals to. In a single master cylinder they are most often mounted in front of the main piston return spring. Residual pressure for drum brakes is usually quite high.... 10 to 20 PSI range. This is balanced against the shoe return springs and keeps the cups sealed. If this amount of pressure was held against the larger pistons used in disc brakes a large amount of drag and heat would result.

Disc brakes have no return springs and early versions actually had springs holding the pistons against the rotors. As fuel economy became an issue the opposite became the norm and the rubbers O rings were redesigned to grip the piston as it was pushed out and then pull the piston back slightly after the pressure was fully released. These were known as low drag disc brakes and resulted in many customer complaints of low brake pedal. Next thing was the development of the quick take up master cylinder which cured the low brake pedal problem very nicely. Some aftermarket setups try and use a normal master cylinder and compensate for the lower pedal on disk brakes with band aid low pressure residual check valves. These valves are a cludge at best and a crap shoot at the results they produce.