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Technical Looking for transmission options for 1950 Dodge230 flathead

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blue50coronet, Mar 29, 2014.

  1. belairlover
    Joined: Nov 4, 2013
    Posts: 9

    belairlover
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    331 mated to the manual for the wagon...the sedan is an all original 30k mile girl
     
  2. belairlover
    Joined: Nov 4, 2013
    Posts: 9

    belairlover
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Manual transmission compliments of George Asche
     
  3. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    The gearshift will shift a manual 3 speed if it is connected up properly. You may need to make new rods of the right length, and levers of the right length to get the leverage correct.

    It will also shift a 4 speed or 3 speed + overdrive of the type Chrysler used in the 70s and 80s but you will have to rig up something for reverse. In other words the column shifter will shift all 4 forward gears but you will have no reverse. I have thought of rigging up an electric solenoid for reverse with a pushbutton on the dash.
     
  4. belairlover
    Joined: Nov 4, 2013
    Posts: 9

    belairlover
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

  5. blue50coronet
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 60

    blue50coronet
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Well, I has been a while since I have posted. I am finally starting to move forward with the car. Since I am not looking to make it a street rod, I have decided to go with a TH350, whic i picked up completely rebuilt from a local transmission guy here in Auburn, and a Jeep Cherokee 3.55 rear end.
    I will also be using a Lokar cable shifter on the floor. I am buying a 2bbl carb and adapter from Langdons and a Wilcap adapter for the transmission. Unfortunately, I do not have the facitilies to do the heavy work myself, so I am going to work with Roseville Rod and Custom to do the majority of that.

    I have to say all the above companies are very good guys and I would reccommend them to anyone looking for their services. Very helpful.
    With any luck I will be able to start on the interior in about 3 months. Wish me Luck!
    @belairlover- sorry I can't answer your question. All I know is that they are very hard to come by.
     
  6. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,198

    73RR
    Member

    ^^^be sure to keep us updated on the progress and the outcome.

    .
     
  7. Excited to see how this swap goes. My 52 coronet is working out ok for now. But if the gyromatic goes out, I was planning on swapping a th350 into it as well
     
  8. pcm
    Joined: Sep 5, 2009
    Posts: 28

    pcm
    Member

     
  9. pcm
    Joined: Sep 5, 2009
    Posts: 28

    pcm
    Member

    gyro trans takes 10wt oil. fluid drive takes other oil. If idle is too fast it wont shift until a faster speed is reached.
     
  10. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    We did this on one car with a choke cable to run reverse.
    Very easy to make, but less easy to drive than a push-button.
     
  11. blue50coronet
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 60

    blue50coronet
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Its been a few months and I finally got the car down to the shop. Work is just starting on it but so far going very well.

    I installed a weber 2bbl 32/36 carb in place of the single. Much smoother accelleration and a more responsive.

    The Dana 35 Cherokee rear end has been installed and is a great fit. I cut the spring perches and shock mounts off and made some new ones that are the same the ones on the original axle by using the shock mount from the Cherokee axle and welding it to a piece of 2" square tubing which I had cut with a 2-3/4" hole saw to fit the new axle. Fit and worked perfectly. I was able to use the original u-bolt plates from the Dodge but the u-bolts from the Cherokee axle were too short so had to get new ones. Original axle tube is about 3" dia. and Cherokee axle is about 2-3/4"dia.

    The front disc brake kit is also installed. It went on without one tweak, mod or correction. I definitley reccommend the ECI kit if you are thinking of doing this. Perfect Factory fit. The original wheels very slightly rub on the calipers, but I will be putting on new wheels which are compatible with radial tires anyway, so its a non issue. If I were to use bias plys a spacer would solve the problem.

    Next up is the transmission. I forgot to take pics too. I will post some progress pics as soon as I get them.
     
  12. blue50coronet
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 60

    blue50coronet
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Ok, as per my last post, here are a few pics of the work so far.
    Rear end installed, leaf spring perch installed(crappy pic but you get the gist), wheel and tire mock up(same wheels will accept original hub caps, so I have a couple different looks), and disc brakes installed. Dana 35.jpg new perch.jpg wheel option.jpg new disc1.jpg
     
    HotRodRyan and Flat Six Fix like this.
  13. Could you have ground some of the caliper to clear the wheel? Also, did you swap out the master cylinder with a different one to use in conjunction with the disc brake kit? Good thing you went ahead & replaced the u-bolts. They are not meant to be re-used
     
  14. blue50coronet
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 60

    blue50coronet
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    I went ahead and got new wheels for a couple of reasons.
    1. wheels designed for bias ply tires can flex with radials. and
    2. my dad had radials on them and they weren't straight, so I think there is validity to that. Also, I would have had them powder coated anyway, so I decided to just get the correct wheels.

    On the brakes, The kit they build comes with all the wheel stuff mentioned and master cylinder and bracket with the pedal attachment, metering valve, etc so there is nothing else to get unless you are replacing the lines
    Here is a link to their website: http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/index.html
     
    HotRodRyan likes this.

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