Working on my '54 F100 - swapped in a later model 302/AOD combo. I had picked up a rebuilt AOD from a guy who wasn't going to use it. It looked the part - clean, painted, new gaskets, even the right plugs and things in the ports, driveshaft, etc. and the torque converter was safety wired in complete with the proper nuts. It's been sitting in my garage for 2.5 years and who knows how long in the other guy's garage. Anyway, had first real drive today (been around the block a couple times) and it shifts fine 1-2, but after about 40-45mph, it seems to just move into neutral. It did shift into 3rd once, but same thing. If I pull over, I can drive away immediately, but once it disengages, it's like it's going into neutral. I finished the drive (tag office & muffler shop) by doing the 1-D-1 shuffle so it wouldn't try to shift into 3rd - it didn't slip or neutral out when I did that, but I could only cruise about 35-40. A few stats: stock '89 302HO from an '89 Mustang GT (although I do have genuine Cal Custom finned valve covers and a moon cap on my air cleaner!), the TV was adjusted to neutral (I will put a gauge on it tomorrow), fresh new Mercon V, and all stock AOD (as far as I know). From the little bit of online research says it could be a couple of things. It seems to be related to the direct drum. When a running AOD develops my problem, it's usually this area that is damaged. This one is supposed to be rebuilt (I know, I know...). I've also read that these trannys are finicky about their valve bodies and any little crud can wreak havoc. So, I'm wondering if it sitting as long as it did caused something to stick (hoping). I've also read it could be the inner input shaft broken (seems unlikely as I just installed it - and it did go into 3rd once), but... So, tomorrow, I plan to do verify the TV port pressures (0-5 at idle in neutral & 30-35 with 5/16" spacer on end of cable, and 80-85 at WOT), then if that works out, drop the pan and a) verify it is rebuilt, b) no nasty shavings/friction material in the pan, and then I'll drop the valve body and clean it up well, reinstall, and try my luck. So apart from checking the TV port pressure - is there anything else I can do?
Check to make sure the TV cable isn't binding at the throttle end or the transmission end. Back in high school I had a Fox Mustang with an AOD that acted similar to yours, found out the TV linkage at the throttle body was hanging up on a nitrous line next to the throttle body and causing all the issues.
I've been through this with swapping a 92 H.O. engine and AOD into my Fairlane. Also working on my brother in laws 89 Mustang same deal. With my car it was just finicky on the pressure. I thought a little more would make it shift a little more firm but it only caused the same problem you are having. When I changed it back to the pressure settings you mentioned it started working ok. The 89 Mustang was the other scenario. Fluid was burnt and clutches were toast. Your on the right track. Readjust and make sure the fluid isn't funky. I'm sure you have read that you can burn it up in a matter of a few miles if the pressure is too low.
^ What he said... sounds like TV cable adjustment. TV cable needs to be adjusted just right or it can cause issues.
I'm using a factory TV cable that I adapted to the Holley 600 and fabricated a bracket to get the geometry right - or I think it's right. I have a teeny tiny bit of slack in the cable at idle and when it's WOT, I have 5/16" more TV travel left. I'll check the pressures tomorrow though...hope that's all it is. If I have to, I'll just start over and pop for the Lokar kit... Of note, when I come to a stop, it is very late to downshift into 1st (well under 10mph - maybe 5mph) and it's pretty solid/rough - does that sound like too much TV pressure too? The 1-2 shift is pretty firm too. I'm more familiar with C6, but admittedly haven't opened one of those up since the late '80s and tend to stick with manual trannys...but this was available and basically free (leftover from another stalled project).
A place that is an all AOD site: www.clickclickracing.com it is possible that from sitting the valve body or governor has varnished and is stuck,not uncommon on AOD's. If the previous owner ran it without doing a pressure adjustment on the TV cable it can fry an AOD in minutes and the result is you lose the 3-4 clutch pack. You might want to check out this section: http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/aodtroubleshoot_1.htm Highly recommend their shift kit.
When I rebuild my wife’s AOD transmission in hers F150 I got a similar problem, the first week the transmission worked perfect. Suddenly it started to move into neutral when the OD shifts in, if we select drive D position it still work perfect. Our problem was only in OD position, when I removed the oil pan i found the problem. I had not mounted the locking ring correct, and it had snapped out of position. The cylinder and piston for the overdrive band had moved down, after I fixed this everything works fine. Here are a pick of the locking ring,
As an old Ford Dealership trans man, this sounds like a TV cable adjustment problem. The only way to adjust it right with either factory or aftermarket TV linkage is with a gauge. Never adjust it by the seat of the pants method. Mis adjustment can cause rapid transmission failure. The sooner it is adjusted right the better for your transmission
I have an AOD in my 53 F100. I used a Lokar cable. When I first got it running it acted much like yours. When I hooked up a gauge I found that the Lokar spring did not pull the lever back far enough at idle. I added a helper spring and it has been fine for several years now.
TCI has a constant pressure valve body that will still need the cable but takes the gnat's ass adjustment out of the picture.
UPDATE: Got a gauge on it this morning. When cold, the readings were pretty good: Idle - 0 (could be strong/new internal bias in gauge as it "snaps" back to zero below 5-10psi) 5/16 - 35-38psi WOT - 95psi So, I let it warm up for a while. Good leak check (found one minor one) on a new vehicle. Stayed nice and cool too, which is a bonus. Then I checked. Idle - 0 5/16 - 40-43psi So, I adjusted the cable a little bit - I'm using a factory style cable, so fine-tuning is difficult although just now, it appears the big square retainer may be threaded onto the cable sleeve - I'll check. Now when I check it at 5/16", it varies a little - it started off around 35, but slowly rose to about 43 with a pretty steady idle speed. I'm starting to wonder if something is sticky inside. For my 5/16" spacer, I took a 5/16" shouldered bolt, cut off threads and cut a slot in it length-wise. 5/16" bolts are really .305" instead of .315", so not sure how critical that last .010" is, but I assume I should ideally see a pressure reading on the lower side of 30-35 instead of the high side. As for return spring on the TV arm, this is a factory cable and I verified it is returning all the way no matter what I do. No exhaust run yet, so I have free & clear access to both sides of the trans right now. I'm going to see if I can fine-tune a little bit more, but if I keep getting this slowly rising reading, I'm going to drop the pan and see if cleaning the valve body does anything...as well as a good visual inspection.
UPDATE #2 OK, no fine adjustment on factory cable - I think it's just crimp marks that looked like threads. However, I figured out a way to solve this puzzle, I think. I inserted my 5/16" gage/spacer onto the end of the cable, I unlocked the throttle block, I started the car and monitored the pressure, then I carefully slid the sleeve out of the block until I got a reading of 33psi and locked the block down. I reinstalled everything and verified the reading - good. It still varies a little bit very slowly - it will rise up to 38 and down as low as 32, but the mean is at 35. I'm going to test drive it a little later after I do a parts store run and go from there. At this point, even if this fixes it, I'm still thinking of dropping the pan to verify I didn't send a bunch of friction material into the pan or worse, metal shavings. It will also let me swap the pan for one with a drain plug, as well as just have a look-see and make sure it's clean inside (since it's supposed to have been rebuilt).
Good deal. A lot of good advice here and I will add that Oldsman has been really helpful a couple of times when I was chasing.
I let it idle for 30 mins in the sun today to get nice and warm and adjusted the pressure to 35. Took it for a quick drive and still didn't shift right. I immediately put it back into 1 so it wouldn't try to shift on its own and when I got back, I checked the gauge again - now it was reading 25. Moving the throttle, I can get it to go up and as it comes back down, it settles at 35, but it will go down to 25, up to 35...sometimes when I release the throttle, it goes down to 25 and then will climb to 30-35. Something sticky?? This trans has sat for several years rebuilt, but unused. Spent most of the afternoon replacing some connectors that were giving me issues with the ignition and chasing some other bugs. Tried again tonight to see if it was any different - same results. I think it's likely toast, but I'm going to drop the pan first thing tomorrow morning since I'm out of daylight today...just to have a look-see. I'm hoping to see obvious sticky stuff - assembly lube or something. But more likely, I'll find friction material. Regardless, I'll trailer it to the exhaust shop tomorrow afternoon - 1pm appt. Maddening, but...I suppose you get what you pay for. Might have to pony up and have it done - or do it myself. I've done a few C6 and a 727, but it was years ago...nothing overly complex, but I do know there's one special tool I'll likely need if I attempt it myself....
Here's another tidbit if it helps anyone diagnose: As this was supposedly a rebuilt transmission, I bought 13qts to fill it - 12 to fill and one for spillage and top off if needed. I filled it the following way: I put 4 qts in, then I spun the engine over w/plugs out to prime oiling system more than anything, but used it as an opportunity to put 4qts more in. I did not check the fluid level at this point as I assumed it would still require more and not even read on the dipstick yet, or read low. Once I fired it up, I started to put the remaining 4qts in. I had the rear end jacked up and the trans in neutral. After I put the next 3 qts in, I put the trans in reverse, let the tires slowly spin against the partially applied parking brake, then neutral and stopped the tires, then Lo, Drive, and OverDrive and finally returned to park. When I checked the fluid, I was way overfilled. The converter was dry when I installed it. I assumed the pan was dry too. Ideally, I would've put some in the converter, but I didn't for whatever reason...I didn't have any at the time and I probably was too lazy to just take a break and run to the store (30 mins away). Anyway, I did go literally around the block once with it overfilled in an attempt to get it to move the fluid around. I went maybe 1/4 of a mile at no faster than 20-25mph. It still didn't bring the fluid level all the way down. I siphoned out several quarts of fluid - enough to fill a large plastic foldgers tub (2lb tub) - maybe two quarts or so. The level is now at the lower quarter of the hash marks and hasn't changed since. I don't know if this means anything or not - probably not - I'm grasping at straws at this point though. OK, out to drop the pan and see what's what...the "hunting" TV pressure has me hopeful it's just a little sticky inside from sitting...but that's probably overly optimistic.
Also, what is the ratio of throttle movement to TV movement - my current setup favors TV. From the throttle shaft pivot point to the throttle linkage is approximately 1" and from the throttle shaft pivot point to the TV linkage is close to 1.5". Can anyone check a stock TV linkage and see what the ratio is for me? I was just shooting for full TV linkage movement at WOT (something I read somewhere online).
I'm no help, but want to chime in... My issue is different but similar. Mine is running a LOKAR cable, and was set by the trans shop (knew better than to do it myself) Tans is thought to be rebuilt, but I cant confirm, nor can the guy I got it from. Ran good the first year in the truck but now its really slippy and spongy feeling. Fluid hasnt ever been burnt, dark or low, but trans feels like a sloppy rubber band now. Anything I can look at to see if its simple, or just bite the bullet and do a rebuild?
OK - the WOT thing I found is pertinent, but not correct. I think that is just a check to ensure that the TV cable does not limit WOT movement. I found on two websites, the ratio should be 1:1, so I redrilled the mounting hole. I then adjusted and was able to get a pretty steady 35psi with the 5/16" gage installed. Road test. Same. Shift into 2nd is late, but smoother, but then neutrals out. So I 1-D-1 it back.
Then my ignition quit again. I'm chasing an intermittent ignition issue. I thought it was my Duraspark connectors, so I replaced those. Still wouldn't start back up. So I reverified every bit of wiring, ohmed out the stator/pickup, ohmed out the coil, replaced coil with two other good ones, checked coil manually (12V & ground, remove ground & check for spark) and it's OK. I had the module tested yesterday and it checked OK...but it's the only thing. I'm going to just buy another module and if it doesn't fix it, I'll have a spare. Then I trailered it to get the exhaust done this afternoon and my dad had to turn around and ran over the guys lawn by a foot or two - not a manicured golf course type, but dirt and centipede grass under oak trees with leaves and bare spots...wasn't even a lawn, but it was his yard. He came out yelling and ranting and told us to just leave. My dad was in the wrong, but the guy was just a jerk about it. He was a little odd on the phone, so probably just as well - but now there's another setback. I think it's time to push it back in the garage and have a beer.
OK - just to close this out. I did finally pull the pan this evening. Not sure if it was never rebuilt or if I burned it up in <10 miles - which I realize is possible, but I'm 99% certain I had too much TV pressure vs not enough and from what I've read, this is less damaging...but there was quite a bit of dark material and even some shiny material in the pan...and one or two tiny chunks Regardless, I now know to quit fooling with this one and get a rebuilt one that I know was rebuilt. I was going to do it myself, but I'm kind of crunched for time, so store-bought is the answer, I think. Going to call around tomorrow morning.
It is possible to burn up mthe trans with the TV pressure not being right. This is very critical on AOD and 700R4 transmissions. A lot of people don't believe that it is, but is a very critical adjustment , and needs to be done correctly
I understand and do not discount the fact that I may have been my own worst enemy here. However, I've also got a pretty bad front seal leak and the grime in the pan looked pretty bad. So, with fresh fluid in it, it's really hard to tell if it was like that, or if I caused it...at this point, it doesn't matter - I need another trans. This is why I usually stick with manuals! I do have a T5...just need a block plate, flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing...and clutch linkage.
Called around today and most places want to rebuild your core. I finally found one of the bigger places in the next town over who had an AOD on the shelf and said he'd check it out and call me back. Turns out, it was a brand new Ford reman in the plastic Ford shipping crate with all the paperwork. It was only $100 more than a rebuilt exchange, so I jumped on it - came with a converter bolted in too and full of fluid. Managed to get it all out and everything cleaned up - going to get a fresh start in the morning to put the new one in. Hopefully, be driving before lunch!!
Murphy. So, Sat morning I went to put my linkage on the trans and it doesn't fit. The arm is completely different. The trans shop is closed on weekends. Fast forward to yesterday and I brought both trannys in first thing. Had to wait around for the guy I was dealing with a while, then he said no problem, it should be 20-30 mins. About an hour later, he calls me back - he noticed the new one is longer than my old one (apparently, it's for a Crown Vic), so he'll have to swap tailshafts and housings - couple hours after lunch - they'll call me. Long story short, they didn't call me and I called them after it was too late to get there before closing. Doh. Picked it up this morning, got it in, started adjusting it. Got the pressure right at 33psi with a .390" gage block, but then had slack in the cable at idle. Hmm...I did one short test drive just to be sure it shifted - less than one mile - then put it on the trailer and headed to the trans shop. They adjusted it for me, no problem. In fact, the did it by eye/feel!! But the key thing is THEY did it. Shifts great. [I had read that's how Ford did them on the assembly line, so....] I drove it home from the trans shop (my dad went with me so he drove the truck/trailer back) - probably 15-20 miles including 5 or 6 on the interstate (by choice). Ran well. Strong, smooth, quiet (too quiet - I can hear all the rattles now), and very cool - almost too cool (not sure my heater will work). So, I hope my trans issues are done. I appreciate everyone's help.
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