Thanks! I've enjoyed having this car, it's been coming together relatively painlessly (granted it was really decent when I got it body-wise). I'm just glad when anyone else finds it interesting or helpful at all. I had time to adjust the striker on the drivers side, the door shuts pretty easily now BUT now it's a bitch to open... of the two, I prefer it this way! Looks like I'll be pulling the latch mechanism to give it a good de-crapifying afterall. Time for a tool review, without which today's task wouldn't have been possible. Amazon/USPS brought me an impact screwdriver today. My hand was a bit numb from holding it, but I'd say that within 15-20 good smacks each I was able to get all the screws busted loose for the latch and the striker. Price was reasonable, pretty good quality, but the reverse mechanism was unbelievably hard to turn... not sure I ever got it in right hand mode. I'll try using a wrench to see if it spins. I bet it will help me break the hinge screws loose without too much effort too. Check it out the link here in case you need one too!!
Yeah, great tool..I got one out out J C Whitney a loooonnnngg time ago and its the best way to get the hinge screws out...And yes mine is hard to turn too, like loota spring inside....
Way ahead of you on the harness... the new speedway harness is working beautifully (although I think a wire came loose from my high beam switch or my bulb already burned a filament, found that I only get light from one bulb on high). Nope, not overdrive unfortunately... I'm waiting for the right rear end option to present itself so that I can get the rpm's down a bit at highway speeds. I keep my eyes open locally, check ads every few days- I don't really want to ship such a heavy item. Speaking of which, time to browse Craigslist this week!
I found the solution for all those with bad door latches... just needs a little bondo and it'll blend right in...
Have you thought of going to a T-5? Made the biggest difference in the world in mine. I have a 3.00 rear and I cruise 75 right under 2000 rpms.
I don't want to chop the floor and go floor shift... That limits me to automatic or stock 3 speed. I have an auto column already, just in case. The new rear gear ratio sure would be nice though. One of these days I'll pull the trigger on the new rear, ac first though! That's priority #1 right now. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks, always appreciated! I can't wait to go back to the color in your avatar. Every time I look at the engine bay it teases me by showing small patches of that blue on the firewall...
The '50 floor has a removable center panel that you could cut for the T-5. It can be replaced anytime for the stock look if and when you want to. I like the progress that you've made, looks great!
It's tax return time... woo hoo! Time to spend it before it gets here... so this is to anyone that's gone through a vintage air installation... I can find pics of the unit mounted under the dash, that's the easy part so far. I can't decide between the Alan Grove bracket and the Vintage air 131004. There's only one small stock picture of the v.a. bracket on a 239 that I have found online, but from what I can see I think I like the look better due to the alternator tensioning arm. Does anyone happen to have pics of their flathead running the 131004 bracket? The larger pic below is the A.G. bracket that most shops resell.
Awesome, thanks for the replies... I definitely think I'm leaning towards the VA bracket. Should be ordered soon!
beautiful ford. too bad you couldn't find a used cluster gear. i guess you've figured out the radiator cap--i think the filler neck is a long one for using an overflow bottle. a 7# cap is what i use. and you can use one temp gauge with a 3-pole toggle switch. run a wire from each sender to separate poles on the switch and a wire to the gauge, then you can switch between sending units.
Thanks Dan, I felt the same way about the cluster gear. I know I could toggle the senders, but there's just something that I like about that dual sweep gauge. It's throwing money at it for no reason, but aesthetically I think it's what I'm looking for! I think I'd rather see both at the same time and know it's good since I'm adding the strain of AC. On a side note, aerostar springs/shocks, electric flow through fuel pump (sick of cranking to prime the carb) ordered from Amazon... will order the drop rears from St Louis Spring on Tuesday. Like so many others, I'll end up with just a bit of a tail dragger stance with 2.5" front/3" rear drop. I did a test measurement to make sure I'll have enough clearance in the rear via a very scientific method of measurement. I backed up to the driveway, pulled the e brake, then stuck my iphone under the tailpipes... so, I have an iphone 6 worth of clearance when backing into the driveway before lowering. I should still be good with a 3" drop. Anything to get rid of the stock fender gap! Will probably be going with sway bars to stiffen things up a bit after lowering, but that's another mini project.
Front drop springs/shocks delivered, rear drop springs/bushings shipping soon. It's been said before, but WOW are the St Louis Spring co's springs cheap. I won't have it dropped before the local Chandler car show on 2/28 though (I'm just happy to have a car to show). Today, I got one little nagging task out of the way that I'd been putting off. I finally cut/assembled my plug wires... the tangle of ugly blue wires finally wore me down! Routing them behind the alternator bracket so they don't show. Will mount the looms as soon as I make a 90 bracket to mount them parallel to the heads instead of perpendicular. Think I'll rattle can the heads while I'm in there.
Very cool project. What info did St. Louis all need? My springs are so sagged out I don't know where I'm starting at...
That phone call was waaaay faster than I had expected. I said I had a 50 Ford sedan, wanted 3" drop springs and bushings. He asked me where they should send them and how I'd like to pay! They should be at my door next week. He said he could send new u-bolts if I needed but I'd need to measure mine for him as he didn't have templates on hand. I passed, I have a u-bolt manufacturer 10 miles away... they can make 'em while I wait if mine are shot.
Yep,doing business with St.Louis spring company is fast.They sent my leaf springs for my shipper really fast,too bad that the boat ride took almost 2 months from US to Finland..
If memory serves, $145 (Edit: I'll update total price with bushings and shipping when I get the invoice/springs)
Spent a few hours playing today, here's a few before and after pics... the rattle can was sprayed over the grease/dirt/god knows what else was on those heads so it was only intended to cover the faded maroon paint. Drivers side Before: Drivers side After: Passenger Before: Passenger After (I still need to arrange the wires on the cap, just plugged in to make sure it ran lol): I pulled the acorn covers off the shelf, figured she'd been pretty nice to me since I brought her home... why not add a little shiny. I know it's a waste on stock heads and looks better on finned heads, I couldn't help myself lol.
Springs arrived, since I was asked the total- $122.50 each spring x2 and 1.35 per bushing x8, 102 shipped to Arizona.
The Jalopy Journal
