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Features Doing Falcons Right

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by falconizer_62, Jul 23, 2008.

  1. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Fuzzy said it. The block itself is the same width head-to-head, but the bell mounting flange is narrower.

    I sectioned out a piece of my old z-bar, installed a steel rod inside the hollow tube, and put deep allen set screws through both the tube and the rod to create a 2 piece telescoping z-bar. I needed the two pieces because my headers prevent installation of a one piece z-bar.

    @Evilfalcon1961 the 1965 z-bar is prescribed for 302 swaps. You can get one at www.falconparts.com for about $78.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2014
  2. Got it.
    Didn't consider the 5 bolt vs 6 bolt mount difference.


    Posted from an IBM Selectric
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am still considering this, but on a different hood. Mine has some serious pitting, and I am not sure that I want to put all of the time into correcting that.

    Of course, now that I am looking for a '60-'61 hood, I can't find one.

    Usually, I can find them stacked like cord-wood.
     
  4. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member


    I'll keep my eyes open around here and save you some shipping if I can.
     
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks. Two months ago, I could have purchased 4. Now....
     
  6. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    That's the way it always works.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  7. scf100
    Joined: Feb 8, 2014
    Posts: 23

    scf100
    Member
    from Georgia

    1961 Wagon.....PO installed 1985 HO 302.....just replaced EVERYTHING in front end with v-8 stuff.......gotta rewire car and install my Comet rear end then back on the road.......
     

    Attached Files:

  8. redzula
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 1,225

    redzula
    Member

    Anyone know if you can buy generator pulleys that have the fan. I had to destroy mine just to get the front cover off during my rebuild it was rusted to the armature. My kit came with new bearings, armature and brushes but the only pulleys I seem to find are without the fan and I actually think they are for an alternator. I have a mustang Gen somewhere but it's been years and it's probably worse than this one was.
     
  9. So I finally decided to shit can all the relays, circuit breakers and the weather proof fuse panel that I'd installed on my left fender apron inside the engine compartment to isolate my tired n' brittle 50 year old factory wiring harness from my 95A 3G alternator and all the other crap that I've added to car.

    After doing a bit of research, I decided to go with the Ron Francis Express fuse box and harness for Falcons.

    [​IMG]

    I liked the features of the fuse box (18 circuits with 16 fuses). I also liked that the wiring could be cut to length after it was run to the fuse box, or away from it. The fact that it looks like circa 1966 HeathKit wasn't very appealing but I decided to take the plunge.
    The first thing I had to decide was where to put the fuse box- it's HUGE! (4 3/4" W x 7 1/2" L x 3 3/8" H).
    There's not much room under the dash of my 63 sedan- what ain't heater box or cowl is wipers or steering column.
    I made a primitive drawing and headed to ClutchDumpin'Dan's place for him to fab me up a bracket to mount the fuse box in:

    [​IMG]

    I never kept anything important in the glove box anyhow....

    [​IMG]

    The next thing I needed to address was how the hell was I gonna' get the GM headlight switch to work in my dash without using the butt ugly billet bezel (that was too short anyhow) and knob that was supplied with the kit.
    So I barrowed a 63 head light switch from a buddy and......

    [​IMG]
    Left: Original 63 Falcon headlight switch with 7/16-24 bezel nut (and factory fuse panel on the plug!)
    Middle: Ron Francis (GM) headlight switch with 7/16-28 custom bezel nut made by my long suffering machinist.
    Right: ugly Ron Francis billet 7/16-28 GM headlight switch bezel nut

    [​IMG]
    7/16-24 and 7/16-28...

    I also had no idea how old the electrical portion of my ignition switch was- I went ahead and got a new switch and the correct plug from Falcon Enterprises. Because I didn't wanna' deal with any more of the goofy 60's vintage FoMoCo .180 bullet connectors than I had to, I added a 6 pin Deutsch connector to the ignition plug.

    [​IMG]
    I'm queer for Deutsch connectors.
    More Later.....
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2014
  10. So on the last 70* day we had here in my part of Virginia ( Dec 1st) I spent the morning bombin' around in the car and began tearing all the wiring out of the car in the afternoon.
    Here's the under dash harness complete with firewall block connectors:

    [​IMG]
    Looks worse than it was mostly because I had to cut through the 50 year old harness tape to separate the wiper harness from it.......
    Nice shoes, huh?
     
  11. So I started under the hood-
    [​IMG]
    Top: 100A HMEG fuse for ignition/accessory circuits
    Middle: 125A HMEG fuse for 3G alternator
    Bottom: Ground point
    Zero gauge battery cable to master shut off in trunk
    Zero/one gauge negative cable from battery to engine block (behind alternator pivot mount) to ground point

    [​IMG]
    Electric water pump relays with delayed shut down- runs the pump for 2 minutes after the key is shut off.

    [​IMG]
    L to R: 6 pin Deutsch for MSD 6AL and timing controller connections, bump start relay, 30 circuit breaker for bump start relay and weatherproof H-4 headlight relays (swiped from a Toyota parts car, I think, at a buddy's shop) cooling fan terminal block,
    The stud above everything is a power point.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2014
  12. [​IMG]
    When I'd done as much as I could under the hood, I moved inside:
    Ignition and modified headlight switch installed:
    [​IMG]
    If you peek into the left corner of the dash, you can see the 6 pin Deutsch connector for the ignition switch. The 2 pin on the right is for the fan override switch.
    [​IMG]
    Two post dash ground point- ten gauge ground wire that goes to another covered ground point on the left front fender apron. Everything for the dash will ground here.
    [​IMG]
    Fuse panel beginning to fill....
     
  13. Gauge panel wiring w/ 6 pin Deutsch. Cooling fan controller in the background.
    [​IMG]

    Gauges were an earlier project:
    L to R: engine oil pressure, voltmeter, trans temp, trans throttle valve pressure
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Neutral safety/back up light switch 4 pin Deutsch
     
  14. Twinpilot001
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 26

    Twinpilot001
    Member

    I ve had a 1965 comet Caliente- origional 289/ 4 speed car since 1984. added c-6 rebuilt tranny then too. still driving it. Now building a 64 ranchero- was a 6 cyl/ 3speed car- now having posi =4:11 rear with new front suspension & hd 390 mustang springs. building a 351 w - stroked to 427 & AOD tranny for this summer. Should be fun!!
     
  15. I'll say it again; I'm queer for Deutsch connectors.
    8 pin for the turn signal switch.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wires run for instrument cluster.
    The 2 pin on the right is temporary; I had to put a warning light in series so the alternator worked when I started the car to test my work.
    At this point:
    Car starts and runs and charges.
    Electric choke functions.
    Electric water pump and cooling fan work.
    Lower gauge panel (oil press, voltmeter, trans temp, trans throttle valve pressure) and AFR gauges all work.
    Wipers, heater fan and cigarette lighter all work.
    I wired the instrument cluster next.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    For more info on the cluster search "Vandalizing a Falcon Instrument Cluster"

    [​IMG]

     
  16. Falcon61wagon
    Joined: Mar 15, 2014
    Posts: 132

    Falcon61wagon
    Member
    from Indiana

    @ Those of you who did the Weber 32 36 conversion.
    Did you use a idle cut off solenoid and why? Or why not?
     
  17. Turn signal/brake lamp/ horn wiring done.
    I didn't want to bore you with more Deutsch connector pictures.

    Dimmer switch hopelessly rusted to floor.
    [​IMG]
    A minor victory.
    [​IMG]
    Next: Head lamp/ parking/tail lamps. Nice harness, huh?
    [​IMG]

    My very sad fifty year old FoMoCo dimmer switch and a NAPA DS115 GM dimmer.
    [​IMG]
    The flash didn't flash....
    [​IMG]
    Pulling the headlamp/running lamp harnesses....
    [​IMG]
    EEEEK! All this is headed for the trunk...
    [​IMG]
    Front parking lamp/turn signal wring....
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Fuse box buttoned up.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Power point cover made from a couple of tube plugs. I'm not happy with it because it looks like a sore nipple.
    Any ideas?
    [​IMG]
    I'd incorporated a "data" plug into the old harness, so I did it with the new harness:
    [​IMG]
    A bunch of cast off gauges in a Radio Shack project box: Tachometer, vacuum, oil pressure (for setting throttle valve pressure) and a voltmeter......
    [​IMG]
    Plugged in. Saves me from running back and forth to look at the engine speed or vacuum
    [​IMG]

    Minor Clean up:
    [​IMG]

    Coil, distributor and engine sensors all got the same 1200* heat wrap that my fuel line got in a different diameter.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Original tail light wiring harder than Chinese arithmetic:

    [​IMG]
    Only a couple of frozen bullet connectors:
    [​IMG]

    Rear ground point for all lights:

    [​IMG]

    Left side complete aside from some detailing:

    [​IMG]

    I had to pull the battery to get to the right hand tail light.....

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Old right tail light harness. The metal tube in the foreground is the fuel tank vent.
    [​IMG]
    So I pulled the battery.....
    [​IMG]

    Ground point completed: Tail light assemblies, back up lights and fuel tank grounds; the 10ga cable goes to the rear body ground point that is directly connected to the negative battery cable.
    [​IMG]

    I really wanted to use something besides the original bullet connectors. The wiring is so brittle and dirty, I couldn't even get solder to stick to the original wiring without using a bunch of liquid flux.
    Nobody repops Falcon tail lights with back up lights yet.
    You can buy the lenses, but not the reflector assemblies.
    So I got out my trusty ratcheting crimper and....
    [​IMG]

    And it's back together.
    [​IMG]

    I made a new 3A fused lead for my Battery Tender Plus (shameless plug).
    [​IMG]
    Master cut off, spare 6AL box and hour meter...
    [​IMG]
    And that's it. It all works. Thanks for letting me spam the thread.....
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2014
  21. mcnally351
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 448

    mcnally351
    Member
    from boston

  22. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nope. No reason to.
     
  23. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    Hey not fair you have been calling yourself a burntoutold mechanic........... But it looks like you are also a burntout ELECTRICAL GOD in reality. :rolleyes:

    But really nice work from a mere mechanic. (we know that mechanics can do ANYTHING.)
     
    BurntOutOldMechanic likes this.
  24. Evilfalcon1961
    Joined: Dec 22, 2007
    Posts: 434

    Evilfalcon1961
    Member
    from Ma

    Sanderson headers in my 63.. trans is not attached just testing they are close !

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  25. Evilfalcon1961
    Joined: Dec 22, 2007
    Posts: 434

    Evilfalcon1961
    Member
    from Ma

    Driverside

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  26. Hard to see in the pic, but I suppose it clears the steering box okay?

    Ordered my 289-302 based/AOD set last week.
     
  27. Evilfalcon1961
    Joined: Dec 22, 2007
    Posts: 434

    Evilfalcon1961
    Member
    from Ma

    Yes clears it just fine , don't knoW if the steering box for the six is smaller but you should be very pleased

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  28. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    Been a while. I finally put on my tru-spokes that I got from Got louvers they look great but they are wider than the stocks and I am having a hard time figuring out my options.
    I can fix the front as I am planning on narrowing my control arms. But the rear is giving me problems. I am running 3" blocks and 195/75 14s
    I just clear the lips on the fender wells but there is an inner tub I am rubbing on. I noticed the drums have 3 raised bumps that where hitting the mounting plate so I ground those down and gained maybe 1/4" I can't use a smaller spacer because the drum will just hit the mounting plate on the wheel.
    I could try smaller tires but I am afraid the hearing may be off if I do.
    I have a 170 with a 2 speed auto. What size tires would work best? It originally had 13s
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2015
  29. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420853935.620512.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420854053.104646.jpg


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  30. cage66
    Joined: Jun 4, 2010
    Posts: 117

    cage66
    Member
    from reno

    Does scarebird sell a 4 lug disc swap for the rear also?


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