Greetings all and Happy New Year. Seems like the only time I come here is when I have a problem. Well, I've been busy finishing up the 32 Ford Roadster and have had some serious medical issues with my Grandson. Anyway....car is almost done as I said but I'm having a "problem" with my clutch. It doesn't disengage the throwout bearing completely and if i'm in 3rd for example, and step on it a bit the engine races. The clutch and brake masters came on the chassis when I bought it. I have a SBC with the correct bellhousing to mate to a T5. The slave cylinder mounts on the b'housing and all seems to work except the clutch arm doesn't come forward enough. It's always riding against the throwout bearing. Anyone encountered this before? I went thru the other post and they talk about pedal ratios, etc. I don't have that type of problem. The clutch pushes like it should...I just don't have any way to adjust the clutch arm. I built the car in a one car garage and it's been a blast. My buddy painted it and I had a friend do the interior. Other than that I did it all and loved it. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.
You might have the wrong bearing?. There is a long one & a short one. If there is no adjustment, could you make a new rod that is adjustable? . Sounds like your bearing is riding on the pressure plate.
thnx 31 vicky......I didn't know there was much of a difference in throw out bearings. I bought all "standard" parts.
They make a adjustable pivot mall for clutch arm to get more or less initial stroke. There is also correct angle for the clutch fork. I dont rember whose site I found it on but Google it. Andy
Also depending on what master/slave combo you have there is a maximum of arm movement that will be attained with that combination. And going with what 31Vicky states, you need that freeplay at the top of the pedal. See what bearing you have, you probably need the shorter one and then you can work on making an adjustable rod between the slave and arm.
It might not be the problem with the length of the throw out bearing.First thing to do disconnect the slave from the clutch fork and see if you can get the throw out bearing to move away from the clutch fingers. This should tell you you have the correct throw out bearing, (It should rattle). You need to have some kind of adjustment on the slave push rod. The pedal ratio and size of the master cylinder and slave have a lot to do with it. Typically the the master is 3/4" and the slave is 7/8". Make sure your slave is traveling enough. Typically 1 1/4". If you move the contact point on the clutch fork (where the slave cylinder push rod is pushing) closer to the to the bellhousing, It will increase the amount of travel the throw out bearing moves. I hope this helps
Don't know if this will help, but here's a writeup on how the hydraulic clutch in my coupe was set up. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additi...ulic-brake-clutch-assembly-1930-ford-model-a/
Don't know if this will help, but here's a writeup on how the hydraulic clutch in my coupe was set up. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additi...ulic-brake-clutch-assembly-1930-ford-model-a/
Here's one of the best techs I've seen on getting the throwout bearing right. Get a cup of coffe and a note pad and have a read thru. It's a bit techy and dry but it's thorough. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm Here's a few excerpts : Choosing the Right Release Bearing This is the part where most people err in setting up their clutch systems. No fix, no bandage, no compensation and no adjustment will make up for the wrong choice of throwout / release bearing. The length of clutch release bearing has the most significant effect on the operation of a clutch of any other factor, and for decades, too many clutch projects have been plagued with set-up problems due to improper bearing lengths. The very first assumption one must ditch is this: "My clutch kit came with a release bearing, therefore, it must be the correct one." In fact, we now recommend that installers buy the clutch bearing separate from the clutch kit, and that the purchase the bearing afterwards based on a mocked-up measurement. -A- Length -B- Overall Length Part Numbers .625" 1.185" N4008 -or- 614083 ($30) .750" 1.216" N4068 -or- 614038 ($32) 1.235" N4109 -or- 614109 ($38) 21/32" 1.246" N3068, N4172-or- 614018 ($32) 1.257" N1488 -or- CC1705C ($20) 1.410" N1451 -or- G1697C ($38) 15/16" 1.609" 1377C ($26) 1-1/16" 1.699" N1466 -or- G1625C ($53) 1.196" 1.775" N1086 -or- 614037 ($36) 1.310" 1.953" 1697C ($26) The pricing shown is a recent check of prices on the street, so that the installer can choose a bearing of similar length and reduced cost. Some of these bearings are no longer available or are excessively priced. An alternative to the above bearings is the Novak fully adjustable release bearing assembly. Read more about it here.
what are you using for a master cylinder? does it have a residual valve in it? if it does it can cause some weird stuff to happen
If the bell and slave are OE correct along with the clutch fork then I would check the bearing. Diaphram and three finger take a different bearing. Might be you have a long in there and it is holding the fingers open. I have had a bitch of a time with a truck bell and slave with a Saginaw that would not shift. Tore it apart twice and finally got it to work. It was a combination of issues with the slave bleeding (they can be tricky historically) and the right clutch fork.
Make sure the release bearing is installed correctly.. It does not go between the spring and clutch arm but on top of the spring.. Look through the clutch arm hole and see how it is mounted.. If mounted wrong there will be no free play and the bearing will be against the pressure plate.. I just replaced my release bearing and had it wrong till I watched a video by O'Reilly's about proper installation...
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