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Technical Why Cant I Get This Door Hing Pin Out?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mark Jenny, Jan 3, 2015.

  1. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    I'm trying to insatall a sideview mirror on my 31 coupe.Seems like a simple project right?...Wrong...cant get the pin out of the hing to put the mirror on in place of the pin...I've tried everything...The top of the pin is missing the mushroom shape and is just a bit below flush from the top of the hinge.I figured it would just tap out with a small punch or drift pin..wrong again...so I tried drilling it out...made a lil progress, but kept breaking bits......So what am I doing wrong???...are these pins threaded?...
     
  2. Not threaded but knurled.I think you have to knock them out from the bottom.Heat and PB helps.
     
  3. barett
    Joined: Jul 1, 2012
    Posts: 468

    barett
    Member
    from Taylor TX

    Not threaded, just seized... Almost always... I've only ever had luck with a drill... Get yourself some more bits and keep at it.. Luck


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  4. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 375

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Maybe let it soak for a few hours with something like pb blaster? Just an idea, maybe it will help. Good luck.



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    SanDiegoHighwayman likes this.

  5. barett
    Joined: Jul 1, 2012
    Posts: 468

    barett
    Member
    from Taylor TX

    I forgot to mention what Mr Webb said...


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  6. BeatnikPirate
    Joined: May 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,416

    BeatnikPirate
    Member
    from Media, Pa.

    I had the same problem with mine. Tried soaking w. PB Blaster, Pin removal tool, pounding, drilling, and still no luck.
    A buddy of mine, a machinist, helped me fix it by removing the hinge from the car, pressing the old pin out with a press, boring the hinge out, and machining a new oversize pin to fit. It worked perfectly! The hinge on mine was attached with screws and rivets, which had to be drilled out and the holes threaded.
    Examination of my old door pin revealed that it had a ridge worn in it that prevented it's easy removal.
    I have heard of others with the similar problem being able to drill or pound them out
    Good luck with your's..
     
  7. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    yea..I thought about heat and also removing the entire hinge..but the old flat slotted screws that holds the hinges on are seized as well....so...guess I'll keep drilling...maybe invest in some high end bits....thanks guys...at least I'm on the right track
     
  8. Thread hear someplace about making a driver from an air chisel point. Best to go from bottom up.
     
  9. BeatnikPirate
    Joined: May 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,416

    BeatnikPirate
    Member
    from Media, Pa.

    325w's suggestion sounds like it might work.
    Drilling didn't work for me because mine was really rusted and had a ridge worn into the pin. Also, drilling requires a long bit, takes forever, and is hard to do without scratching the paint on the drip rail.
     
  10. I've had luck with soaking the pin with PB blaster and then use a air chisel with a punch bit to drive the pin up and out. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
    grits likes this.
  11. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    my coupe has no drip rails, and I'm not worried bought paint cause I'm goint to repaint it...the pin doesnt seem original..the bottom is not like the other pins..it has a small flange on it...I doubt it will go upwards thru the hinge..looks like my only option is going downward...maybe getting a more durable punch..it just bends my drift pin when I try to apply more force
     
  12. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    if I could just get the hinge off I could replace the hinge...sheeesh..all this for a mirror...lol
     
  13. sawbuck
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,909

    sawbuck
    Member
    from 06492 ct

    x 2, works for me
     
  14. the knurling on the top of the pin will make it almost impossible to drive it downwards. I'd keep drilling. Start with a # 30 go about 3/8 to 1/2 inch down. Then go to a 3/16" and keep working up in drill size and down in the hole once you get about 3/4" down in the hole you should be past the knurling and then you can drive that baby down and out.
    -Pat
     
  15. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    cool..I'll keep drilling..sounds like a common problem,,,,waiting on the delivery of a new ingersol rand..so the air chisel is out for awhile...it sure seems that this is a common problem...I dont think these doors have been off for many years..there must be 6 layers of paint on the hinges!!
     
  16. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    joeycarpunk
    Member
    from MN,USA

    As mentioned soak and let sit with PB Blaster, knock off the flange and drive from bottom up. Heat with wax around the pin is supposed to help but I haven't tried that.
     
  17. mr.40ford
    Joined: Jun 20, 2009
    Posts: 22

    mr.40ford
    Member

     
  18. buck 32
    Joined: Oct 16, 2014
    Posts: 183

    buck 32
    Member
    from Maryland

  19. mr.40ford
    Joined: Jun 20, 2009
    Posts: 22

    mr.40ford
    Member

    A lot of patience is required. Your on the right track .Keep drilling and soaking. Go get some good quality drill bits. Don't use cheap ones. If they break off in the hinge you really have problems. Expearance talking. Good luck
     
  20. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

  21. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    I could probably grind that bottom flange away..then try going up with the pin
     
  22. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,516

    5window
    Member

    MJ-you will find that often the hinge parts will work a flange or shelf into part of the pin shaft. Then. in order to drive it out, you will need to find the position where the door is part way open (or part way shut, I guess) and the pin will then drive out. Excessive force is ultimately not your friend since you can bend things up and you may find that hinges which have been in place for 80+ years may not be all that happy to be loosened. Do a HAMB search on hinge pins and you find more info.
     
  23. Mark Jenny
    Joined: Oct 23, 2014
    Posts: 821

    Mark Jenny
    Member

    Thanks 5Window..good advise!!..I'll do a search..I tried that initially..must searched under the wrong words
     
  24. buck 32
    Joined: Oct 16, 2014
    Posts: 183

    buck 32
    Member
    from Maryland

    I had tried all of the above and was afraid of breaking something or bending the hinge or hit the body with the hammer. I was very impressed with this tool.
     
  25. markboo
    Joined: Jul 8, 2009
    Posts: 22

    markboo
    Member

    Get them red hot the pin and hing then spray water to cool real quick drive from bottom up may have to do it twice But Will Come Out
     
  26. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,267

    verde742
    Member

    Just a thought,,
    if its got a flange on bottom, maybe it was put in upside down.. should NOT even have a flange on bottom. carry on...
     
  27. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,267

    verde742
    Member

    check above post.
     
  28. studematt
    Joined: Feb 12, 2008
    Posts: 433

    studematt
    Member

    Heat and or air chisel.
     
  29. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,363

    mickeyc
    Member

    You would definitely need to lightly grind the expanded end off the bottom of the pin
    The drake tool worked for me on the pins on my 40. However you must go slowly and check the pin alighnment
    as it enters the hinge and begins pressing against the door pin. It will wander a bit as the threats are turned until it moves the door pin and enters the hinge body.
     
  30. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,363

    mickeyc
    Member

    The flat slotted screws on my 40 were seized as well since i had no panels in the way I was
    able to access the back of the hinge. I used a 000 brazing tip on my ox acetylene rig and was able
    to adjust a small pinpoint flame and heat the nuts cherry red, then held them with a box end wrench and was able to remove the slotted screws with a screw driver. prior to heating the nuts I crumbled the slots on one screw and had to drill it out
     

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