Technical Bonding Phenolic Resin Board

I have some 3/4" phenolic resin board I want to make a 1 1/2" carb spacer out of. Is there something I can bond and seal the 2 pieces together with so I don't have to use another gasket? I was thinking about roughing it up and using fiberglass resin. Will that work being exposed to gas? Thanks in advance.

Blue

 

I think that would hold up, but to be sure you might want to try some automotive 2 part epoxies like JB weld that clearly state they are fuel proof.

 

I don't know if polyester resin (common fiberglass resin) will hold, some of the epoxies might, since you are bonding the phenolic to itself.

If that doesn't work out, you could stack them up and use a layer of Permatex #3 "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" between each ply.

From the Permatex site "Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease."

I do not work for them or sell their product.

 

I've used JB weld on fabricated Hilborn setup.

It doesn't seem to care about gasoline, racing or otherwise.

I would recommend at least pinning, if not screwing the spacer together so it is less likely to delaminate when not installed.

Make sure to clamp the lamination together when you bond it so it adheres properly.

 

Any concerns with phenolic resin board and the alcohol/additives in today's gas?

 

How about using an adhesive designed for the purpose ?

http://www.holzleime.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75&Itemid=86&lang=en

 

Alcohol won't hurt it and like has been mentioned use a 2 part epoxy to bond it. They kae a regular 2 part epoxy for the process (it was originally used in the electronics industry) but JB weld will work like a champ. Don't forget to clamp them while the resin is setting up.

 

There are several types of phenolic resin boards. If you're using the type used in the electronic industry, it can be drilled & tapped. In addition to using a bonding agent (JB Weld, etc.), I'd suggest screwing the 2 pieces together using countersunk machine screws. The holes left behind could be filled with the same bonding agent and sanded smooth.
I'm getting ready to use electronic grade phenolic to make adapters to adapt air cleaners to the stacks on Stromberg 97 Scott tops.

 

I just did a quick search of adhesives. For phenolic the best bonding agent is Devcon HP 250. Here's the info sheet on it. http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_185.pdf

 

Except it is listed as poor in resistance to gasoline

 

How about grooving it for a Oring

 

True, but it's listed as very good for ethanol. It also has a fairly low heat tolerance in the 200 degree range. But it's a good starting point. By contacting Devcon, I'm sure they have a better bonding agent.

 

The phenolic resin glues well with epoxy, scuff it with course sandpaper for the best bond. A few screws or bolts won't hurt, but I think the carb studs should do.

 

Steve its overkill but when we are doing it we take a ball end mill or drill bit and make some dimples in the surface to be bonded.

 

The material I have is from a long gone tool and die shop. Sounds like J B Weld will be the way to go, just because it's the easiest to find. My plan is to have the top half a 4 hole and mill the divider between the primarys and secondarys on the lower half to make it a 2 hole. Going on a 2 plane intake. Thanks guys.

Blue

 

Go to your nearest gun shop and ask for AcraGlas - it's a 2-part product from Brownell's. It's a rifle bedding epoxy material that will bond just about anything to just about anything as long as it's wax, grease, teflon and oil free. It's easy to use and heat resistant in this application. I use it for just about everything and would use it for your task with no qualms whatever. It's great stuff!

 

This is what the custom knife guys use to make their own phenolic resin handle material.