Technical filling pitted up old steel wheels, weld? TIG or body fill

I just had a pair of 40 ford wheels blasted and upon completion they turned out to have quite a bit of rust pitting. It seems they had been doctored up with body filler in the past.

I was wondering anyone had any experience filling old steel wheels with tig weld? of course i'd going in small incraments so as not to worp the wheels.

 

Sounds like lots of work, way too much. But that's my imagination and no pictures.

 

We need pics to answer that question.

 

Silicon bronze rod would work too. It has a lower melting point than steel rod, say ER70S. You might be able to use lead-type body filler, like All metal also.

 

Weld filler or body filler....it'a all filler. If time is not an issue I'd mig them. I would also have no problem using a good grade of filler.

 

I would use a high build primer sealer. HRP

 

sorry I don't have any pictures at the moment although i'll try and get some up soon. My feeling is it's welding question that doesn't really require images. The wheels have normal pitting more or less all over and in some areas it could be almost as deep as half the thickness of the metal. Some of the pitting is on the outter lip area.

I believe i clould repair it with the TIG welder, although it would take some time. I was wondering if anyone had ever done such a thing.

 

If they're that rusted to where half of the overall metal is gone, I'd look for better candidates to restore. JMHO.

 

I would use a flap wheel on 4 1/2" grinder along with small twist lock discs on a air die grinder for the tighter areas. After you have smoothed/removed much of the pitting, I would TIG weld in the major pits and then maybe a small amount of body filler followed by high build primer.

When I use old wheels for a project I always detail the rim edges inside and out, for a nice smooth surface for the tire to seat to.

 

I like the idea of using softer metals for the sake of removal, the next question would be is the balance going to be changed?

 

Oh yeah!. But since there isn't a lot of the original metal left, the original balanced has already changed. I'd be concerned about excessive rim lip pitting weakening the strength of the overall wheel. Wouldn't want to be goin down the highway and a wheel decides to let loose!

 

Yup, if there's deep overall pitting I'd be looking for some other wheels, especially ones that are as common as 16" Ford steelies. Rare wheels are a whole 'nuther matter, but even then one must be more aware of strength than beauty. Good luck!

 

X2. There are better wheels out there, you just have to find them. If they are half gone, then their strength is half gone, too. Not worth the effort IMHO when the end result may still be sketchy in the safety department.

 

I agree with the majority,if they are as bad as you say replace them with better wheels.

Sell them to a rat rodder,they like that kind of stuff. HRP

 

Good advice, Silicon bronze rod works wonders and it grinds off nice and smooth. Painting and or chrome plating is not a problem. Since the wheels are already blasted, I would try a few spots and see how it works for you. The rod will come in handy for filling holes in sheet metal, or plug welding light sheet metal as well.

 

thanks for all the ideas guys

 

Order some centers and find a place like this:
http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/

Some folks here (I forget who) seem to build a nice wheel too. In the end it might be cheaper, but if the pits won't fill with a reasonable application of polyester primer they might be good for spares or less. They take a beating as it is so, thin skinned and welded over? Not in a Detroit pot hole...(!)

 

We all know that a chain is as strong as its weakest link.

Pitted metal is the same.

Do you think you have thinned rims with thick spots or do you think you have sound and strong rims with thin spots?


As far as balance goes, of course filling the pits will change the balance of a pitted rim,

 

I guess it depends on how good the wheels are. If not too bad & not in critical area use J-B Weld.

 

Better wheels are readily available. introducing heat to thinned metal will warp/shrink it making a bent wheel.

 

They make great garden hose, or extension cord reels. IF the centers are good, knock them out and find better shells that have the lug nut areas F--ked up.

 

I can add nothing that hasn't already been said, replace them if they are pitted that deep, it isn't worth the risk to not replace them.

 

I SAY GET NEW WHEELS & TRASH THE ONES U HAVE IT IS NOT WORTH THE TIME & ENERGY TO TRY & SAVE THEM

 

I have some Plymouth wheels here that I really like that have some minor pitting. When I get around to using them on something I will no doubt just smear some mud on 'em and sand it out.

Here is the deal if they are so pitted that they are not structurally sound, no amount of welding on them is going to save them. If they are still usable then mud will work just fine or glazing compound if the pits are really minor and you are going to paint them. If you are going to chrome them, then silver solder is the filler of choice, that is what a good chrome shop would use and they would charge you an arm and a leg for doing it.

 

add me to the j-b weld crew. minor pitting only.

 

I watched a professional shop restore rims for a museum car (only one in existence ) and they braised all the pits

 

Essentially, that's what you're doing when you use silicon bronze.

 

I think I'm into the 4 '40 wheels on my project for $50.00. If you value your time good ones at $100. each would be the quick way out. Bob

 

Lets start with I am no expert on this, my question is could he drill out the pits then weld the holes shut? Just asking cause I'm curious........

 

Sure,
but eventually at some point you'll decide that there's just too many pits and holes to do that. Where the magic number is will be different for everyone. Would that be 50 holes and pits per wheel? 500? 5000? There's a lot of surface area in a wheel.