This might be an incredibly dumb way to go about this, but can you get a crank out of a block without removing the pistons and rods? Seems like you could remove all of the caps and lift it out? Just wasn't sure if everything could swing clear before making contact with the case. Suppose I also might need a couple sets of hands to make sure nothing wrecks the journals coming out or going back in. Obviously I don't want to damage the crank (this a late flathead with a four inch crank) but I need it out to use a heavy duty gear puller on the timing gear - nothing I could fit behind it while in the block could get it to budge. And I don't own the proper tools (ring compressor) to get the pistons back in if I take them out. This is rapidy turning into a rediculous project.
yes you can do it that way.its a little tricky.pull a rod cap and push the piston to the top of the hole.keep doing that.rotating the crank.until all or are off.you might have to hold one or two rods when lifting up.. good luck.
Sure, you can do that..get some plastic or rubber hose to put over the rod studs...so as to not damage the crank... We replaced the crank in a 455 Buick this way many years ago...seems it had a bad rear main that was a leaker--and we got a new crank kit with new bearings...replaced the mains, rods, and the seals also..We had the engine in a stand...out of the car..sealed it up and got another 5 or 6 years out of that big gass guzzling hog.... It takes a few hands too, to grab the bearings and move the rods in the proper orientation as you go...but you can do it.. Mark aka Abonecoupe31
Yup. Last time I did the bottom end on my flat 6, I did it that way(cause the top was in good shape). We did Mel's '59 Dodge motor that way too after she spun a bearing.
man, I am feeling your pain, this is fastly turning into a debarcle! as above, yes you can, have done this a few times even just to change bearings. plus this way your cost is just a sump gasket and not head gasket etc. also you dont have to torque your heads down etc. makes the time spent alot less, just be careful not to drop anything into the bore if you can help it. this motor seems a little like a run away train
Kevin,With all the room in the bottom of that 3 main brg v-8 it should be easy to manage but let me throw out a couple of alternatives.If the main need is removal of a tight fitting crank gear you might drill and tap 2 or 3 holes in the gear to allow a good puller be installed with strong bolts or studs.Many gears come so equipped on other equipment.A commercial bearing splitter might fit behind the gear and provide a hold for the puller or a compact one can be fabricated.Check the Proto or OTC lines of pullers and accessories.Quite possibly careful use of a propane torch will expand the gear enough to use 2 bars to start it off.Actually nothing much beats a wedge or 2 to move something out in a tight place.Good luck
Like Mark said above, you can use rubber hose or Summit (and others I'm sure) sells 'rod bolt sleeves' Here's a link so you can check 'em out. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=115+400022+300330&autoview=sku
Easy job. The suggestion above for rubber on studs should be considered MANDATORY--you can't control all those flopping rods, and the crank WILL get hurt otherwise. Crank gear can be pulled with just main cap off; some cheap&nasty mechanics would split it with a chisel... Make sure no shells go flying before you can mark them, since you will likely be using the old ones again. Remember the old trick of pushing out the upper mains without removing crank, too--a little tool slides into the oil hole and you just rotate crank in proper direction to not interfere with bearing tab. Traditional kludge for the little tool is just a cotter pin, round end into hole, two ends laid flat against jurnal as pushing surface! Do NOT keep the little slinger part--I realized you don't want to saw off the drive pulley to clear it, because you want its full shank available to transmit the heavy load you have planned for it. This is just a checkup, right? You haven't found any nasty stuff in bottom of pan, I hope?
Prolly doesn't need to be said but make sure you mark each cap for it's cylinder and keep direction straight for reassembly. Please don't mix them up
Yeah--borrow some stamps and mark each cap and put matching stamp on other part right next to it. It is really easy to make highly regrettable mistakes, or to carefully line up everything in order on the bench and have a cat walk through it all... Good marking will keep you happy for the life of the engine.
I'm kind of suprised no one has asked the question yet,"why do you need the gear off in the first place"?
Is this job just to replace the missing gallery plug? If so there is no need to remove the crank. First, did you remove the key that secures the pulley hub/spacer? That could still be in the crank. Remove the pan which I assume has already been done. The crank gear rides on its own key. Tap the gear back GENTLY to seat it as far back as possible. Locate the key. Spray everything with PB or Kroil and especially the key area. You can even use a little heat in the area to help the PB to get sucked in. Use whatever puller you have available or even some screwdrivers. With some pulling and tapping back it should finally show some movement unless it has been on there for 50 years. BTW, the Ford shop manuals give the procedure for removing the crank with pistons still in place. It shows the tool that Bruce has replaced with a cotter pin in case shit happens and you have to pull it. The visual may be of help. Dont lose control, stay calm! These engines were made to be fixed in a dirt driveway.
Kevin, hell man. ring compressor cuff tools are about $10 from NAPA or manny moe an jack(off). . . hell man, buy one even if you DO pull the crank outta the block with the slugs still in, just in case one of em decides to flop out the top ring. . . cheap insurance bro
Timely thread. Pulled the motor & trans out of my 56 Olds last night to fix badly leaking rear main seal. Will be hoping to only remove sump & crank to fix as motor has only just gone together. Am about to order a neoprene seal as new rope seals appear to be a waste of time.
Russel, Worth doing a thread to ask about the rear main seal on the rocket, I remember back a while there was some real good talk on the best way and best item to use..... Sorry for the Hijack y'all.
Yeah, I have been e mailing Joyce Bros Restoration and about to send some money for the seal & pan gasket set. Real helpfull guys. If I have to pull the motor & box again I will seriously drag the car outside & put a bullet through the fucking thing. This is not the most fun way to spend an evening, but I will get the trans reco'd this time & hopefully have it together for the Beach Hop.
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