Technical 49-51 MERCURY front suspension

Steve.....
Nice graft!.(of course!) the pics are labeled "MercstudeAxel xxx" I gather that is a Merc chassis, a GM front clip, but what is the 'Stude' referencing?
Ray

 

When I used a digital camera for taking pictures, I would download them into a common file before I organized them into the proper files. The camera software tagged all the pictures with that common file name. So I took pictures of the Mercury (which was turned into an Ranchero/ Elcamino type thing so you will see Mercameano on some of those pictures) some Studebaker work and probably some axle dropping all in that original file.

 

Use a rear steer Nova subframe narrowed 1.5". Buy this DVD to see how to do it. Stock radiator support is moved up a little and a 70's dodge pickup radiator slides in stock support. Drives, steers, stops great and does not look too wide.
http://shop.kustomcarparts.com/How-...1-Mercury-each-dvd-dteadman-4951msubframe.htm

 

I personally don't like the looks of the Nova/Camaro stub stuff. The new front clip that No-Limit just came out with looks like the ticket to me. Have one coming up so would like to see what's tried and true also.

 

Haed to beat the Nova front or rear steer system fits in the frame well if done correct allows use of the stock trans cross member.
The truck rear looks Kiss. I have to remember that one.

 

I'm putting a first gen F-Body clip into a 57 Pontiac. To set up ride height on the clip, I'm told that I need to "level" the lower control arms. At what position is "level"? How do I measure this? I am using an all-thread to compress the spring.... but at what point do I call it level?

Please see the pictures.

 

All fatmans on my 50 /works drives great .although the stock crooss member is Abit close........but liveable jmo

 

Seems to me the lower ball joint 'pad' would be a good level point. Also, with a lower bump stop in place you might shoot for a "reasonable" clearance at ride height between it and the lower A arm.

 

General rule, most tie rods will be close to level at ride height.

 

......DOH......why didn't I think of that????

 

Thanks guys.

I will need to see how much (in the center of motion area) that the vertical movement affects the for/aft movement. After much thought... It would be great to know actually the "axle center-line" of the first gen (rear steer) clip. I read a lot on the HAMB about the late 5os GM truck subframe stuff using a second gen (front steer) clip. Most seem to use the upper shock mounting hole as the center-line. Some say to use the "rear" of the upper shock mounting hole.

My question is: What is the reference is used for the axle center-line install of the clip on the 49-50 Mercury? The above picture might not be accurate, just using it as a reference for the question...

Thanks in advance!

 

for a mercury?

 

any pictures?

 

I have 1st gen camaro /firebird rear steer subframe.

 

Use the lower ball joint grease zerks

 

has anyone used the upgrade steering from shoebox central in oklahoma? wonder what the parts are and if common when they need replacing!

 

I have the original Merc wishbones still in my car but have spliced on Jag XJ40 ends and upright, this gives me easy to replace balljoints and disc brakes. It also lowers the car about 2" so you don't need to run the car with excessive wishbone angles. It's also the same width as the original set up.

 

5 x 4.75" but the centre hub is quite big and needs to be turned down to fit most non-jag rims

 

Actually the centre hub was the same size as the Mercury, I have Chevy pattern 6x15 smoothie wheels and they go straight on. Clearance on the caliper is tight but is does clear. It is possible that factory rims won't have a big enough centre bore. Being 5 on 4.75" pcd the Jag front brakes match the Chevy rear axle stud pattern on my car.

 

wow! lets see more pictures, cool setup!

 

Interesting, are xj40 hubs the same as xj6? what kind of smoothies?

I know for sure stock 49-54 Chev steelies won't fit the xj6 hubs without modifying and the fitment issue has come up a few times in other jag front threads. Good to know there's an easy solution.

 

My smoothies are from Wheel Vintiques, dual pattern and normally hidden behind 54 Merc caps. Of course if you have full caps you could use Jag steels. I think the uprights I used were 1988 XJ40, which is the square looking Jag often referred to as an XJ6 but it was a replacement for the 60's/70's Jag.
At the moment I'm using a VW Type 2 master cylinder with a remote 50's Land Rover reservoir. The cylinder is 7/8" (not Metric!) but doesn't push enough juice to the brakes so I'll be swapping it for a VW T4 m/c which is 1" diameter.