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Hot Rods The tale of two '32 roadsters

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CTaulbert, Dec 18, 2014.

  1. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,098

    bowie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is going to finish out beautiful! A very smooth profile. thanks for showing its details. Looking forward to the update to yours.
     
    Darryl Deir likes this.
  2. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,032

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Great work, Cory! Thanks for posting all the photos - lots of great ideas and fabrication.

    Malcolm
     
  3. opunui
    Joined: May 29, 2014
    Posts: 75

    opunui
    Member
    from Honolulu

    Awesome work. Thanks for the play by play.
     
  4. It almost looks like you guys know what you are doing!:rolleyes:
    Just beautiful work!:cool:
     
  5. Cory ,
    Roadster looks fantastic, great work !!
    How much work in involved in the 10° lay back on the windshield ?
    I have a roadster project moving along and like that look.
    ---Dean
     
  6. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,479

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Yes sir! I think everyone needs to take a really good look at the cars these guys turn out. Dan is the best febricator/builder I know and obviously Corey is hot on his heels. Great work guys!
     
  7. Very nice attention to the details. Great quality work as well.
     
  8. TimW
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 242

    TimW
    Member
    from Kentucky

    I too followed on fb and ig but glad to see it all here in one place. Car is very motivating and inspiring. Both cars are incredible pieces. Thanks for taking the time to share.
     
  9. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    Dean - I know guys go about it a lot of different ways, but a friend turned me onto the method of rotating the lower stanchions back on the cowl. You slot the lower hole slightly, and pivot the hole frame and stanchions rearward about the upper bolt in the lower stanchion. Ten degrees is about the maximum lean you can go without having fitment issues with the lower stanchions or the frame to the cowl.
     
    TimW likes this.
  10. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to get the hood to fit better on our car. I was battling the length of the tops from side to side, and getting the body line to line up with the cowl. The only was it was going to work was to take a section out of each hood top. I decided to start with a new pair of tops rather than trying to strip the tops that had been on the car.

    [​IMG]
    A trip through the bandsaw, and a quick clamp to check initial fit
    [​IMG]
    Tacked together after being Cleko'd together
    [​IMG]
    I made a buck to make the metal finishing go a little easier on a table top rather than trying to hold the pieces
    [​IMG]

    After the gaps and hems were cleaned up, we checked the hood fitment one more time, and then stripped the car down to head west.

    [​IMG]

    Here’s the car after it came back from Darryl. It may or may not be hard to tell in the photos…but the car is extremely straight. It’s nothing short of impeccable finishing. Darryl cut pretty much every hem on the car - I didn’t think they were too bad, but he wanted to take the time to make everything just right…..and it definitely shows.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I originally had a set of custom made Classic Instrument gauges in the car, with a tach/water temp/oil pressure in the stock instrument panel, and a hidden fuel gauge. They were made in the font and colors of a ’40 standard panel, but after putting a set of early Stewart Warners in the 5w…..I knew there wasn’t anything better. Chris Schlaff restored another gauge set for this car recently. I’m going to setup another dash next month to hold the set, then get that dash painted to match the car.

    [​IMG]

    Kirk Jones made us a shift knob for the car, which turned out awesome. It’s yet another cool piece to the car that will make it into “version 2”…..

    [​IMG]

    That’s about up to the latest on my car right now. I’m currently tweaking the ride height a little lower, and working on a huge maintenance list as well. If the sun comes out sometime before next spring, I’ll get some shots of the car outside too…..
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2015
  11. Cory,
    been following all this neat work on instagram glad you posted this thread. top class.
    Al.
     
  12. I can't say anything regarding your work quality that hasn't already been said here,
    so I'll just add that it's nice to see these in larger pictures than IG offers.
    Thanks!
     
  13. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    ronzmtrwrx
    Member

    Oh yeah. Very nice.
     
  14. Flabbergasted. This shit is badass. Thank you. This is why I am here. Beautiful.
     
  15. AWESOME WORK !! Thanks for posting.
     
  16. Beautiful metal work on the hoods. HRP
     
  17. willysguy
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 1,224

    willysguy
    Member
    from Canada

    Great job, both cars coming along very nicely with lot's of neat little tricks! Thanks for the updates.
     
  18. Really like the headlight bar. Rest of the work is amazing.
     
  19. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    Thanks for the compliments. I'm going out of order here, but I thought that I would share some of the time lapsed videos that I made with our work on Darryl's car. Click on the still shots, and make sure to click HD on the player to get the best quality video (it defaults to a grainy lower definition).

    Laying out the '40 x-member:


    Making the frame brackets for the engine mounts:


    Starting to layout the exhaust:


    Making the rear floor, crossmember cover, and welding it in place:


    Modifying '50 Pontiac taillight buckets for the '37 Chrysler lenses and bezels, then laying out the rear panel:


    Cutting hood gaps after tacking the hood tops back together:
     
    brEad likes this.
  20. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    videos no workee
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  21. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    Let me know if it works now mister...
     
  22. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    all good...thanks
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  23. alfin32
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,588

    alfin32
    Member Emeritus
    from Essex, Ma.

    Purrrrrfect, great work Cory & Dan!
     
  24. Enjoyed the videos. HRP
     
  25. patina steve
    Joined: Oct 3, 2006
    Posts: 248

    patina steve
    Member

    Thanks for the post...........Great work guys...............!
     
  26. rat seeker
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 377

    rat seeker
    Member

    Great thread, unreal build
     
  27. OUTSTANDING workmanship....Thanks for sharing
     
  28. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    I did a little work on my roadster today. I wanted to do different spreader bar hardware than what I had on the car before. I've always liked the shape of original backing plate bolts, but never really cared for the square head. I took some stainless hex head bolts, and radius'd the heads down to a similiar shape to the backing plate bolts. I painted them black afterwards, which should disappear well on the frame rails.

    [​IMG]

    As I mentioned earlier, Chris Schlaff restored a set of early Stewart Warners for the roadster. I picked up another Brookville dash to start with, and laid out the holes from a pattern that I borrowed from a friend. I did the same layout in the 5w as well. I did a test fit in the car tonight, and the dash fits pretty good. It needs a little tuning at the lower edges where it meets the cowl, so I'll address that when I add a flange to the backside for a little more stiffness.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2015
    brEad, ls1yj, kiwijeff and 2 others like this.
  29. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    The dash is just about ready to ship to Darryl. I took some 1/2" x 1" tubing, and cut off two sides to create a 16g L shape. I then stretched and shrunk the vertical wall to make the piece follow the bottom of the dash, then welded it on. It turned to the bottom 90deg flange into an almost closed box section. I did this on the old dash, and it really stiffens up the dash.

    After I ground and filed the weld, I drilled the holes for the column drop, and added some holes on the backside of the box to add some switch panels. I'm just waiting for some threaded bungs to show up tomorrow, and I'll drop them in place to finish it off.

     

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