Projects Finally I get my Flathead powered T Roadster

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Notice the rear bearings are in a steel plate, the plate floats a little very good idea.As most damage is in the cover where the bearings are located on all other designs

 

These are the machines used

 

Milling machine with digital readout,precision 10x12 ground angle plate,16x48 leblond lathe,surface grinder

 

Great stuff Mike! Keep it coming.

 

will start boring the holes in housing tomorrow

 

The center section must be turned end for end so now the old front end is now facing to the rear. And flipped over so the ring gear still goes in from the drivers side. And the drain plugs are now on top.This is correct,if it were end for ended and not flipped and the drain plugs still on the bottom you would have three speed in reverse and one speed forward.

 

Look what finally arrived last night Tim
Larry

 

What a piece of fine jewelry... Man is that beautiful!

 

Very nice Larry!

 

First thing the rib must be cut off as the lower shaft goes there, remove red area with end mill.

 

The top of the housing must be indicated square to the table and the center to the machine spindle, move over 3.000 to the new shaft location,bore to 2.000.

 

Very nice how to! Keep it up mctim64 and bone31

 

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very good

 

this piece is 1/4" wall tubing 2" dia

 

Why don't you bore all the way through with the 2" tool and stick one piece of tube in, then weld? Then cut the center out after welding. Wouldn't that be stiffer and prevent some warping? Or is the tool too short?

 

Only 5" travel on the quill,plus you would need a 13" long boring bar,way to much chatter,plus guaranteed the bottom hole would not be 3.000 from center.You do all the welding at the same time.

 

Stay tuned and see how the other hole is put in exactly 3.000 from center.

 

The center section is not bolted down is just for showing how the setup works.The old flange is squared to the table and a fixture is inserted in the bearing bore,then the center is found with a edge finder and moved to the center and the readout is set on zero.The alu. fixture bolted to the center section,then a cut is taken on the alu. block on the end the highest one.So now the edge finder to is touched to the new cut taken on the alu. block and recorded.

 

THIS thread is B A D ass.

 

Now the flange is square to the table,touch with the edge finder.

 

now the edge finder has found the edge move away 2.154 set to zero

 

set to zero

 

now move to 3.000 to the new shaft location and bore hole to 2.000 also center the housing front to back.This hole was already bored but this is how we got there.

 

The next thing is to start making some parts, 3/4 " x 6"x 9" back plate it is made from HOT ROLLED steel, very important not cold rolled steel.Also it is low carbon steel,hot rolled steel will not warp as bad as cold roll and a lot less stress after welding, a secret of old time gage makers it will stay stable after welding, make all parts from hot roll.Never make steel parts that will be welded from unknown steel.If you were to use high carbon steel not knowing it would probably be unmachineable, and might break under use.There are over 3000 types of steel, we would never make a die part out of just a piece of steel, air hardening,oil hardening,water hardening ?

 

Thanks for the tutorial Mike, you make it look a whole lot easier than it really is. See you around.

 

The center section is made from cast steel very high grade good for welding, Henry made very good steel.Marty hope to get up to your place before summer.Once you retire you have no time sounds dumb but true.