Hello all , I bought a new welder , And I am trying to do some test runs and it's just melting the tungsten 2% thoriated red tip 3/32 Any help would be great , first time with a tig for me The torch is a ck 17 I added that . it came with a water torch 18 . I don't have a water cooler Thanks Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The gas was 15 -20 It felt like some was coming out before I turned on the machine , Then increased when it came on Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ this guys videos can help you out . plus he has them on you tube also .
Yes the torch is in the pos looks like the ground clamp should be there I ll try again , Thank you Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I hate to sound like an ass but do read the instruction manual and learn what everything does ( even thought its against guy code ) it makes it a hell of a lot easier to set it up
Purge the gas line by depressing the peddle a few times without welding. You might try a smaller nozzle. The tungsten needs to stick out of he nozzle a half inch or more. The pos should be on the ground. Buy a book. Tilt the torch back at the weld you just made when welding. The gas needs to remain on the weld so it does not burn.
Now that I switched it the tungsten isnt melting but the test strip isn't either .. Started at a 100 amp then went up to 200 amp same not melting I ment to say the positive clamp lol Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
have you resharpened the tip since you balled it up with the reverse polarity?? you want a sharp point now one thing you have to know is there is only one way to sharpen them otherwise the arc will wander if its cut in the wrong plane .
Like stimpy said read the instructions ... , so up slope and down slope had to be on zero for the foot pedal to work correctly Not sure what this is but i think I melted something Thanks for all the pointers ! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Try to enrol yourself in 1 of those courses at the local Tech college. The guys there will be able to explain things in simple terms with a lot more 1 on 1 help with the instructor. It helped me out when I first started over 15 years ago. After that it was practice, practice, and more practice. Mtw fdu.
yes thats a great web site , i would like to get his box set too .. I dont want to weld like Fidos butt !!
Reading the instructions doesn't always help, especially when they are all screwed up. How can the work lead and the torch possibly be both hooked up to the + side of the machine
thanks yes i have looked but nothing close by figured like everything else you just have to jump in , i got this one because id like to work with aluminum and stainless too
Make sure you keep the amperage at 150A or less while you practice. Your air cooled torch is rated at 150A and air cooled torches generally won't stand excess current for very long. They overheat and things in them begin to melt.
hard to tell and without the instructions , but are you also running HF (high freq) while set a DC? that should be on for AC(welding alu). Rocker switch #4 should be in middle possistion for steel
this is why they label the posts on the machines . kind of like my buddy arguing about his flux core welder said all the wire he is buying was garbage , I opened the side of the unit reversed the leads and now it welds like butter , and the sticker was right on the voltage taps on what was what . they had it set up for non flux from the factory but he never bothered to check against the book or opening the panel and looking .
I have the same model ex250 I have the water cooler on mine.It's been a good welder so far, had mine for almost 3 years. I to had never tig welded, took me almost a year to finally figure out the control features and fine tune it. The only thing I did was change the foot pedal, the one that came with it was a pile, I ordered an SSC brand made in USA, night & day difference! I believe they changed the pedals since I bought mine. The more I weld with it the better I get. Welded today for almost 3 hours straight! Keep practicing and maybe watch some youtubes on tig welding until you get the feel for it!
That is incorrect advice. With that machine ( Inverter TIG) the HF start can be used in the position it is in (HF start for TIG) for Mild steel and Stainless steel. When HF Tig is selected the HF is only for arc starting when on DC. When you switch the machine to AC for Aluminum, the HF is also used for starting and then stays on continuously to assist the oxide cleaning action that allows aluminum welding. ( By the way, that oxide cleaning action with AC current happens on the + positive side of the AC cycle.) The middle position is for Lift arc Tig which can also be used for steel or stainless. The HF start is far easier to start the arc with.
Hi Sunday See if there is a local nite class you can take for welding, will be the best money you will ever spend Or find a pro welder and pay him to teach you the basics with a few ' show & tells ' The Arse you save from a broken bad weld just might your own G Don
Why a better connection or too low ? I did a little better today Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
TIG requires a squeaky clean weld area. Grind off all mill scale on hot rolled steel then wipe down with Acetone to get rid of any residual grease or oil. Everlast is a good machine but way to many controls for a Novice to learn at once. Clean it like I said then set the machine for basics, DCEN, 125 AMPS. gas flow at 20 and make sure the ground is solid. Grind the tungsten to a sharp point then slightly flatten the point. I have run quality tests using all commercially available electrodes and you can weld 99% of anything weldable with 2% 3/32" Lanthanated, that included Aluminum. There are a few exceptions but those alloys won't be found in home shops or Hot Rods.
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