Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects SBF Gurus Input Appreciated

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Putputboom, Apr 3, 2014.

  1. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    That would make the car dogtrack but it shouldn't cause the tire wear you describe. Both tires wearing on the outside would indicate the housing has some toe-in. Wear on the inside indicates toe-out but both tires wearing on the right side is puzzling.
     
  2. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Here are pictures of the two tires that were on the rear axle and as you can they were both wearing extensively on the passenger side
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Took it to the alignment shop and have been running it a bunch these past few days. I must say between the Shelby drop and going from positive camber to negative camber the handling difference is incredible. It leads in to corners with significantly less effort and holds them rather than jerking around or floating. The rear axle has negative camber on both sides meaning that both sides of the axle are bent. I'm believing I may swap out to a shortened 8.8 when I have the time
     
  4. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,484

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    You may want to spend a few bucks to go with thicker wall axle tubes to get your fix.They were doing a project on "Chop,Cut,Rebuild" and an issue was when welding on the original tubes or adding brackets they found warp issues on rears that had been previously modified.Sometimes you just have to filter out the drama in these shows and you will pick up the useful stuff.
     
  5. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    If you're getting it narrowed anyway,you can just have the machine shop remove the tubes altogether like Jeff says.

    Then weld your spring perches on and mock stuff up,then once you're happy with how it's gonna fit,have them weld the housing ends on perfectly square.
    Cause even if you tweak the tubes a little while welding the perches on,the shop can still get them nice and straight to each other,which is te important part for bearing wear,way the car tracks and handles,etc.

    Scott


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  6. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Clutch
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    The ranchero has been running nicely the past few weeks up until Friday. My brother and I got to take a trip down HWY 1 with it through LA and it ran like a champ even in the stop and go traffic of LA. Have been putting the miles on it and swapped tires out for the moment as the previous tires had worn too much. The whitewalls from my woody I wouldnt have first thought of on it but when actually together they create an interesting image that I am not opposed to for the time being. Unfortunately the clutch rod snapped also tearing the seal on the slave cylinder. Fortunately Modern Drivelines where incredibly responsive with new slave and push rod shipped to me free of charge with in the span of a 10 min phone call. Now waiting for that to come in along with a new pivot ball, pivot arm, and steel carrier shaft to make sure this does not happen again. While this happens I think I may pull the rear axle, rebuild the center section, and have the housing straitened. After talking to currie and calculating costs I believe the 8" will hold up sufficiently to the power I am putting through it and the style of driving I do.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  8. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,724

    George
    Member

    Carb, C/R, cam & rear axle are areas where people usually go for more than they really need. 8" should be fine, everybody wants the 9" because the NASCAR guys use them.
     
  9. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    8" will be fine until you start to make some really gnarly power.
    There was a guy up here with a 347 in an o/t 67 Mu____g that ran high 11's with an 8".
    If you can't get traction,you're not gonna break parts,so as long as you don't plan to put slicks on it,you'll
    Be fine with that 8" behind that motor.

    Scott


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  10. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,347

    MUNCIE
    Member
    from Houston

    Hit about three salvage yards today and I only found two 5.0 's
    I thought ere would be way more,one they wanted about 450 and the other 100 but the outside looked dis colored and it had a core plug changed out. Didn't want to chance it on that one.Not looking good at the moment.
     
  11. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Finding a good complete 5.0 could be difficult. An observation I have made is how the 5.0 only makes power over 3k and gets into it around 4k. It is a ton of fun to run up in the higher rpm and listen to it sing but it has no torque what so ever in the lower rpm range. I now see the point of going to some form of a stroker or more practically just going to a 351 windsor which should have a noticable amount more torque. I have sold off a couple of my projects in the past weeks, some for disappointingly little with how the economy is, but hopefully I will have some funds to put back into the car shortly.
     
  12. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    The ranchero gets a little bit of love and safety this time around
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Shocks are noticeably larger and do a much better job of keeping the rear planted. The car is now incredibly fun to drive with handling and stopping capabilities. The rear axle is starting to go on it so that will be my last major modification for the time being
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Been having fun with the brakes recently. The master cylinder I installed was for drum brakes and it turns out it had 10 lb residual valves internally which was too much for the disc brakes up front. I then ordered a master cylinder for a 1974 maverick with disc brakes which I read was a good one for the disc swap. Turns out it does not have any residual pressure front or rear which allows for a bit more pedal travel than I care for. Looking at getting a 10 lb residual for the rear and a 2 lb residual for the front. Something I have looked into a bunch and found little to no information on it is the gm style universal combination valves which allow rear brakes to engage before fronts an keep pressure in check but as of yet I do not believe they have residual valves in them where you would only need to get that to fix the system. For what its worth the Wilwood brake set up is incredible for stopping and well worth the price tag. On another note on the drive home last night the rear axle started making very signigicant clunking sounds while going around corners and worse in right hand turns. I believe my carrier is toast so now I need to figure whether I go ahead and rebuild the 8" or step up to an 8.8"
     
  15. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Not sure about the GM style, but Ford used OEM combination valves which is a proportioning and metering valve combo, but doesn't contain residual valves.

    Assuming you have Granada discs, the Maverick Master, plus the Ford combo valve, plus 10lb rear residual is what you want.
     
  16. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    So long story short bent housing bent axle shaft and toasted spider gears. Going back together now and everything looks good except the axle shaft seals don't fit my housing. Here you can see the difference between the 62 pumpkin versus the 67 pumpkin. Also displayed is the difference between the original axle shaft and Yukon aftermarket axle shaft
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    So the most recent thing has been installing frame bracing and replacing rotten floor pan. The frame was bent well over 1/2 inch and it was disturbing how much flex it had in general. This should significantly increase rigidity and handling in general. Next on my list of purchases will be new leaf Springs of either maier racing or global West style. I was informed today that they are actually made locally in Fresno so I will be dropping by bett Springs to see what they have available. The one other thing I am looking at is maier racings panhard rod to prevent my rear axle from swaying and rubbing on the body as well as plant the rear end for cornering.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Making a pan hard rod for the ranchero
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    Panhard works great and I'll post more pics and info on that soon. In bad need of new Springs with much higher spring rate. Either going global West or maier racing. Any input on either would be appreciated. To throw some gas on the fire has anyone consider putting a miata irs in a Mustang? The track width is right and with a 8.8 inch pumpkin I know they can be bullet proof and they handle very well
     
  20. Putputboom
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 274

    Putputboom
    Member
    from Fresno

    so as always playing with everything on the car but the largest and most recent addition was a unisteer rack and pinion. From what I read they had good quality with a somewhat reduced turning radius. Well a somewhat reduced turning radius is a huge understatement. The rack has 5 inches of travel while the original box has 6 3/8. Translated to the wheels it makes this thing nearly impossible to park and it maxs out on sharp turns. The bracket and unit appear to be very quality but for its actual purpose it blows. Their tech line is atrocious and they dont seem to know all that much about their own rack. After much more reading I see the TCP rack and pinion has the full travel and while it does not provide as substancial of a brace it will be much better for on the road even costing about 1k more. As far as road feel thought the rack and pinion is very firm and while definitely not perfect it makes the driving experience far better. Bump steer is significantly reduced but not entirely absent.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.