Hot Rods Dakota IFS thread what you need to know

Hello all,
With I.C relaunching the Dakota based IFS kits I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread that will allow interested members of this forum to get the 411.
Please feel free to add more info and post pics of your projects with this set up. I currently have a 1960 F100 that I want to install the Dakota IFS, with anticipation to IC releasing the kit in the very near future I scrounged the local yards and salvaged a couple of Dakota IFS kits. Here is the info that I have gathered so far, please correct me if I'm wrong


Years that WILL WORK for with the I.C kits
Donor vehicle:
1987-1996. Dakota 2 WHEEL DRIVE only!

If you are going to pull the suspension your self at the local pick your part you will need:
One Big Ass Pry-bar
One BiG Ass hammer
Hydraulic jack
Wire Cutters
Crescent Wrench (big one)
Metric Tool Set (deep sockets/open end wrenches)

Cross shaft nuts(center) take a 21mm socket/wrench
Cross shaft end nuts take a 23mm socket/wrench
Brake caliper bracket bolts 3/4inch
Shocks lower take a 13mm
Shocks upper take a 14mm/ 9/16
Lower control arm has 2 different size bolts,front 21mm , rear 18mm
Rack and pinion mount bolts 23/24mm ..?.. ( all the racks had been pulled already.
Will add more info as I go..

 

Taken from the HAMB rules sticky,


5. As mentioned throughout these guidelines, the H.A.M.B. focuses on TRADITIONAL hot rods and customs. Posts pertaining to traditionally inspired, but not quite period perfect belong on the main forum found here. Please note that we don't focus on things such as modern fuel injected motors, big-inch wheels, frame clips, after market independent suspensions, etc... at all on the H.A.M.B.. As such, posts that stray away from the "traditional inspired" will be deleted.

 

Having pulled 3 suspension already I can tell you this..

The easiest one was the 4 cyl truck, it has plenty of room to work around, the hardest are the 6 and 8 cyl ( nothing too crazy or impossible hard)
The coil spring compressors I rented at Auto Zone did not work, strangely enough, so once I loosened the cross shaft nuts and the upper control arm stayed in place , I used the long heavy pry bar to lift it away from the t bolts and the coil springs popped out without any crazy force, now this does NOT mean that it will be the same experience for you! Safety first! Always!!! Always!!!

You don't have to loosen the top shock-shaft nut,if that shock has been In place for a long time the rust and dirt build up will make it very difficult to remove,plus, you need that special tool that holds the shaft in place whilst you remove the nut. I simply removed the lower 2 shock bolts that attached to the lower control arm ( make sure you orient the shock with the opening at the bottom control arm,otherwise the shock mounting tabs will hang on the control arm)and when I wedged the suspension off with the pry bar the entire suspension just popped off.

Don't let the different rotors across the model years freak you out, the early Dakotas have the Mopar/Ford small wheel bolt pattern 5 on 4.5.
the later Dakotas have the weird 6 bolt bolt pattern which interchange with the Dodge Viper of all things...
The rotors ARE interchangeable, so if you do get a 6 lug type rotor you can easily retrofit the 5 bolt type rotor to it.
There is a bolt on conversion that will allow you to use the early 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern but Iam not familiar with what rotors, brake calipers and brackets to use, this will allow you to keep your 5 on 5.5 bolt circle if you have an old Ford truck like mine and save you some $$ , can someone chime in??

 

117harv
I wasn't sure where to post, moderators,feel free to delete or move this thread if you feel it is out of place.

 

Please continue, tech on modern ifs swaps is all over this site. I haven't seen much on the dakota swap, seems interesting. I look forward to checking out your build.

 

I'm in the process of collecting parts to do this on my 63 f100. I ordered the IC x-member yesterday. Steve told me the 74 to 85 d150 rotors are a direct fit to the spindle. You will need the rotor, caliper and caliper brackets off the d150 to make the swap. This will allow you to run 5x5.5 wheels I guess. I heard you may need to machine a bit of the rotor to clear factory ford steel wheel inner lip but that's minor.


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If you check out IC website you can read everything you'd like to know about this swap


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D150 rotor fit the Dakota spindles perfectly. Yes you need the calipers and brackets. Screw the "traditional" rule mustang II isn't traditional either but everyone uses it. At least Dakota IFS is off a American truck out of a yard instead of ordering a IFS out of a catalog made in China

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